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Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo XC90s. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
Dezz
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Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by Dezz » Tue Mar 31, 2020 4:51 pm

Hey group,
Looking for some advice on rebuilding a Haldex 3 Pump motor from my 2007 XC90.

My pump motor is bad. It does not work at all. I bought a rebuild kit online and have since removed the pump and am trying to rebuild it. The issue I am having is figuring it out how to get the motor apart. All the videos and tutorials online show a pump motor with a metal cover and housing, and the cover is removed by simply removing 2 screws and pulling it off. Unfortunately my pump motor is not like that and has a black plastic cover instead. There is no screws to remove. I have no idea how to get this motor apart. I know the motor is rebuildable since I can purchase them rebuilt or refurbished.

Can anyone share any light on how to rebuild this motor or at least how to get the plastic cover off it?
Thanks.

PS:
Buying a new pump is simply out of the question. They are just too expensive. Especially during this pandemic time. I am one of the many have lost my job due to this.

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ggleavitt
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ggleavitt

Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by ggleavitt » Wed Apr 01, 2020 8:16 am

http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... 6t%3D52413 for what appears to be one thread on this. Never seen an AOC pump motor rebuild kit before, if you're successfully in doing the rebuild, please post.
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Dezz
2005 2.5T AWD-200k
2008 V8 AWD Sport-130k

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Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by xHeart » Wed Apr 01, 2020 8:36 am

I recently serviced Haldex on our 2013 XC90, more here : viewtopic.php?f=10&t=90085
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Past: German Shepherd | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by Dezz » Wed Apr 01, 2020 12:59 pm

Thanks for those links.
That Russian link had 1 picture on page 9 that was of good use. It showed 4 broken motor covers, 2 of which were the same plastic covers as mine. That's the only information I have found yet of the same pump as mine. It shows the covers will come off. But it still not answer the question of how they got those covers off, and I am wanting to do it without breaking the cover.

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xHeart

Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by xHeart » Wed Apr 01, 2020 1:42 pm

cn90 would know. Here is something MVS member cn90 wrote:

cn90 wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:19 pm
DIY: 2005 Volvo XC90 2.5T at 82K: ATF, Angle Gear, AOC, and Rear Diff Fluid Change

My newly acquired 2005 XC90 2.5T with 82K miles, it is the usual story: P.O. owns it until now, skipping a few services because of dealer service costs. Now it is my job to bring it up-to-date…

Today is July the 4th, so I went all out war on all fluids replacement…lol!


PARTS/TOOLS

- ATF is Mobil 3309, case of 12 for ~ $70 on Amazon

- I have been using Redline 75W90 for a long time in my BMW Rear Diff without any issues. It is a very good fluid. This is why I use this in the XC90 Angle Gear (which is basically similar to a diff) and Rear Diff.

- Angle Gear: I removed about 600 mL, you can use Volvo oil (see chart), I used Redline 75W90 oil.

- AOC system: I removed about 500 mL, new PN for oil is 31325136, Volvo sells this for $18/L.

- Rear Diff: I removed about 650 mL, you can use Volvo oil (see chart), I used Redline 75W90 oil.

- Trans Cooler Green Clips: 9485149 ($7/each), qty = 2. These clips break often during removal, so best is to replace them before you get stranded!

- Trans Cooler O-rings: 988840 ($4/each), qty = 4.

- The AOC Filter PN 30787687 ($20): no need to drop exhaust/driveshaft for this job: but your best bet is to buy or make a small ratcheting wrench with 4-mm hex head that can fit in that tight space (see photo). The space is about 32mm, yes it is tight! All stores were closed and I didn’t know where to buy the ratcheting wrench with 4-mm hex head, therefore I improvised with drift + hammer, worked well, read on.

- 24-mm wrench

- 13-mm socket with swivel, Iron Pipe for added leverage

- Long Funnel ($4 at local autoparts store)

- The Oil Suction Gun is fine for filling up fluids but it is not very good at sucking old fluid out. So I used a 60-cc syringe and the stiff Volvo vacuum line I have lying round the garage. It is slow with the syringe but for something I do once every 8-10 years, this is fine. You can also use oil evacuation tool (Pella etc.).

- I re-used all crush washers, just make sure they go back in the same orientation. The little indentation (created by tightening the bolt) on the washer faces the bolt.

- All 3 systems (Angle Gear, AOC, Rear Diff) do NOT have drain plugs. They only have fill plugs (what a dumb design!). All are 13-mm bolts. Do one system at a time to avoid mixing up fluids!


XC90-Fluids-01.JPG


XC90-Fluids-02.JPG


XC90-Fluids-03.JPG


XC90-Fluids-04.JPG



PROCEDURE

- Cleanliness is crucial, so clean the chassis a day before with water.

- You will need newspaper, cardboard to absorb spilled fluids.

- It is easy to get mixed up, so do one system at a time, paying attention to what fluid being pumped in!!!

- When wiping ATF dipstick, use clean paper towel, and whatever you do, do NOT introduce dirt/lint into the Auto Trans!


ATF Fluid change

1. All 4 wheels on wood ramps on level surface. Apply Parking Brake, Chock wheels if you can.

XC90-Fluids-05.JPG


2. Study the ATF flow, basically AT ---> LOWER line ---> Through Cooler ---> UPPER Line ---> Another Cooler in Front ---> Back to AT.
Some people flush from the UPPER Radiator Port, I find it easier to flush from the disconnected LOWER Cooler Hose.

XC90-Fluids-06.JPG


3. Drain ATF (24-mm wrench), clean the drain bolts, then tighten it snug, no need to over-tightening it.

XC90-Fluids-07.JPG


4. Remove Air Duct (8-mm bolts). The dipstick is hidden directly below the area as shown, it is held down by a metal clip, simply slide the clip out a bit to remove the dipstick. To make it easier, move the LOWER radiator hose to the left (I use a piece of paper towel as a cushion to protect the hose from the plastic clip).
You will see a narrow opening where you can slide the long funnel down to insert into the dipstick housing to fill with ATF.


XC90-Fluids-08.JPG


XC90-Fluids-09.JPG


5. The LOWER Cooler line is shown: to d/c from Radiator, simply squeeze on the clips, rotate the line a bit to undo the bond, then slide it out.
- For the old Green Clips, use a pair of pliers to cut it off, then slide new clip in. The O-rings: use small flat screwdriver to remove old O-rings, then install new O-rings. Wet the O-rings with a bit of ATF before insertion.
- To drain, I simply place the disconnected LOWER cooler line into a Funnel with an Oil Pan underneath to catch old fluid. Note the dark ATF being drained.

XC90-Fluids-10.JPG

XC90-Fluids-11.JPG


6. The procedure is well-established in forum but here you go:
- After the ATF is drained, re-install the 24-mm drain bolt. Firmly snug it, don’t over-tighten it.
- Add fresh ATF 2-3 qts each time, start engine and run until bubbles comes out of the disconnected LOWER cooler line.
- I worked outside, so avoid area under trees, you don’t want any debris, however small, in the trans! I used Aluminum foil to cover the funnel when not in use. The bottom line is: remove the Aluminum foil only to add fluid, then cover it immediately. A small leaf or some flies/bugs can cause problem for the trans!
- Save 4qts for FINAL Fill! During Final Fill: re-install the cooler lines with new Green clips, O-rings. Then add about 3.5 qts of ATF.
- Run engine in P, R, D for about 15 seconds each time, put it back in Park. Wait for engine to warm up, check ATF dipstick with engine running. I didn’t have time to warm engine so I checked ATF dipstick with engine running, it was luke warm engine (after 1 minute running), and with 3.5qts, it is between Min and Max, good enough for me.

Angle Gear Fluid

1. My Angle Gear needs a reseal job, but the leak is minor, only slightly wet around the casing, no oil on garage floor, so I skip the resealing job for later.

2. I used 13-mm socket + swivel +ratchet + Iron Pipe. Old fluid was dark.

XC90-Fluids-12.JPG

XC90-Fluids-13.JPG

XC90-Fluids-14.JPG


AOC Filter

1. The Filter is a challenge because I don’t have the 4-mm ratcheting tool. Do a google search on “4-mm ratcheting tool”, and you should find something that fits in that tight space.

2. I improvised and used a drift + hammer to work the 4-mm hex bolts loose. Hit the bolt in such a way that makes it go counter-clockwise. Mark with Sharpie so you know it has turned! Then use long needle-nose pliers to undo the bolts.

XC90-Fluids-15.JPG


3. Note the old AOC filter with 82K: it is dark, time to be replaced. Since I didn’t have the “4-mm ratcheting tool”, I had to re-use the old plate b/c the new plate design does not allow me to use the long needle-nose pliers to tighten the bolts.
- To remove old AOC Filter: angle it UPWARD to remove it. This is the only way to get it out.
- I simply transfer the new O-ring to the old plate.
- To start the upper bolt in such a tight space, wrap some dental floss in such a way that when you pull on the dental floss, the bolt is tightened! A little trick but works well…

XC90-Fluids-16.JPG



AOC Fluid and Rear Diff Fluid

1. Be careful because these 2 fill plugs are right next to each other! The Haldex bolt to the front and Rear Diff bolt to the rear. The Haldex bolt sits a bit higher than Rear Diff bolt. See photo…

2. Do one bolt at a time to avoid mixing up fluids!

3. Sucking fluid out is slow, adding fluid is also slow because of the syringe setup I have…

Clean all oil spills from the car, this way you know if there is a new leak later. Go for a test drive.

Anyway I got it all done with no special tools…That is all boys and girls!


XC90-Fluids-17.JPG
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Dezz
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Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by xHeart » Wed Apr 01, 2020 1:46 pm

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Dezz
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Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by Dezz » Thu Apr 02, 2020 8:40 am

Update
I finally got the motor a disassembled. The black plastic cover is simply held on by friction with an o-ring. It is a very tight fit, but it does come off. I applied some heat to the cover, and then used a small plastic rivet puller and hammered it around the edge. Prying some and it popped off. Then I went about dismantling the motor. Brushes and armature were completely worn out. I have the armature replaced now, and I am working on replacing the brushes. I've had to come up with ideas on the fly to figure out how to do some things.
Removing the copper windings from the armature without breaking them was a chore. But patience pays off here. I installed the new armature and ending up having to solder the copper windings to the new armature as there was no way I could reinstall them as factory build. I noticed from online photos many other people soldered these wires on too.

The brushes are next. I am trying to come up with a way to replace the brushes with the tools I have at my disposal.

I have taken lots of photos so far, and plan on doing a write up on rebuilding the motor if this works for me. It is a far cheaper for someone to rebuild their motor than replace it. It is a huge savings.
The fluid and filter alone cost me $180 at my local dealer. I know I got ripped off, but I needed it.

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xHeart

Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by xHeart » Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:40 am

cn90 would quote Vince Lombardi: “Winners never quit and quitters never win”.
--
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Dezz
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Dezz

Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by Dezz » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:05 am

I finished rebuilding the motor and function tested on the bench. I got everything put back together and the All Wheel Drive is still not working. I guess its on to testing the DEM unit. Fuse is not blown.
Irritating.

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Re: Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild

Post by SuperHerman » Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:32 pm

Did you ever check for codes? Did you use VIDA? What are codes if any? If you do not have VIDA or a "proper" scanner, try using the onboard diagnostic (do a search for your car) to see if the computer is communicating with the DEM - it is a very high level look, but a place to start. Ideally if you have VIDA you can get pretty granular on what the issue is.

On my 2004 XC90 the code was caused by a connection point on the steering wheel module that appeared to have taken a bath in a spilled smoothie. Technically everything was working, but the connection was intermittent - so my tests were inconclusive. It was the physical male pins and some corresponding female pins that had green oxidation on them.

It is a difficult problem to resolve as there are so many systems tied in - VIDA is really the best way to go.
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