IPD sale XeMODeX - Experts in Volvo Electronics
Did you know? 🤔
Logged in users can get email notification of topic replies Log in or register (free).
Amazon Link Buy anything with this and it helps MVS!

Replace lifters solid to hydraulic Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" platform cars.

2001 - 2007 V70
2004 - 2007 V70 R
2001 - 2007 XC-70
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R

Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2020 6:28 pm
Year and Model: 2006 V70R
Location: Redding ca
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 0
United States of America

Replace lifters solid to hydraulic

Post by Ellyatts » Sun Apr 19, 2020 8:31 pm

Doing valve job on 2005 s60 with solid lifters.
Can I replace lifters with Hydraulic ones?
If not I adjust valves by file down valve stem to get back to factory spec?

Posts: 6576
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:25 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
Location: Ponder Texas
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 239 times

Re: Replace lifters solid to hydraulic  Topic is solved

Post by jimmy57 » Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:12 am

Hydraulic tappets are taller, as I recall, nominally 17.5 mm. Solid ones are sized in increments from 14.80mm to 16.40mm or thereabouts. If a machine shop does a head with solid bucket tappets they usually grind the stem tops to achieve the desired clearance after the valve seat grinding and angle dressing puts valve a wee bit deeper and makes clearance too tight. The Volvo prescribed way is to measure clearance and select tappets. Volvo parts sells tappets in .02mm increments in the range above. The measuring method is to do each cam one cylinder (2 valves) at a time. Volvo has a bolt on bracket that uses two head top cover bolt holes to mount the bracket that holds cam down against bearing journals. If you use one hand to hold cam down with lobe peak 180 degrees away from tappets and use a faint feel to know when the feeler gauge is in contact then you don't need the bracket tool. You could also use a large simple C clamp and a thin piece of wood. Wood against block side of head to give c clamp anvil a flat place since it ill fall into combustion chamber readily and the screw stem end bearing against cam journal. A wooden saddle helps as it gives the screw end a flat place to rest. The spec is .20mm intake and .40mm exhaust, each +/-.03mm. I always go tight as the cam will actually ride close to upper journal in head top cover as evidenced by oil varnish staining on lower journals (except front, owing to cam belt pulling that end down) and clean upper journals. If you come up with a tappet that leave an intake at .18mm then no worries, in actuality it will likely be .20 when the cam is riding higher once assembled with sealant film between halves.
These users thanked the author jimmy57 for the post:

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Last post