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Oil in the intake

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" platform cars.

2001 - 2007 V70
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Stonedraider88
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Oil in the intake

Post by Stonedraider88 » Wed Apr 22, 2020 4:24 pm

Dear all,

As always I am a lurker and not a poster. Been spending a few hours a week on the site following projects and reading up issues.

Last summer I had oil in the spark plug well for cylinder 5, causing it to misfire. We diagnosed it here on the site as the failure of the O ring between the valve head and the valve cover. I did the job myself (taking the million bots of the valve cover was a royal pain) and while I was at it I also changed all the pulleys and belts and pumps and so on. I also changed the AC radiator as it was totally shot. I actually bought an intercooler and a radiator to change the whole package, but it turned out that the latter two were absolutely fine with no corrosion or leaks, so they were returned and refunded. I also put a mesh screen in the bumper to better protect the radiators from the debris.

Now is the time to ask more questions.

I now have oil coming from the turbo into the intercooler. I believe this is the fault of the turbo. I also have my suspicions at the turbo as the car acts strange at times under acceleration. If I am accelerating foot flat down then there is no change and feels normal. However when I am accelerating mildly the RPM with jump up and down in the 500 range. So, the RPM will climb to 3k and suddenly drop to 2.5/2.7k - no gear change and I do not move my foot at all. I feel a slight loss of power but it is negligible. It was not doing this before. Furthermore there is oil all over the rubber pipe that connects the intercooler (intake side) to the plastic pipe coming over the engine from the turbo. Your suggestions/thoughts?

The engine is now close to 250k miles and the turbo has been there since day one. Not a bad result in my opinion. Since the car is now close to 15 years of age and the miles have piled up, it is time to make it more of a project car than a daily driver (we are looking to buy a 2014 XC70).

After some research and a lot of reading here and other forums, I would like to change this turbo to a K24. I've done the research and looked up the parts. I understand the job and the fact that some parts wont fit, like the piping and an exhaust manifold from the S60R is probably a good idea. This isn't really my question of concern. I wanted to ask this:

Is it a good idea to take the K24 machine the housing and fit larger compressor wheels? I was looking at these: https://www.vivaperformance.com/turbo-b ... s60r-v70r/

Or is it just simply not going to work? Or cause so many headaches that its better to stick to stock K24?

Lastly will someone be able to tune the car for the larger air volumes? I am not really able to send out the brains of the car as I still live in Russia and all the sanctions and stuff. However I am sure that I would be able to upload the new mapping into the ECU if someone was able to send me the files.

What do you all think?

Also I will upload a picture of the oil leaking, once I figure out how to. I am a computer retard as it turns out.

Stonedraider88
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by Stonedraider88 » Wed Apr 22, 2020 4:28 pm

Also here is what the engine looked like with the valve cover off and the camshafts out. And what the AC radiator looked like also.
Attachments
IMG_20190628_235312.jpg
IMG_20190628_133945.jpg

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darrylrobert
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by darrylrobert » Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:19 pm

A mechanic told me oil in the intercooler is very normal for turbo cars. All my turbo cars have had some oil, in my current car the oil stays on the intercooler side of the intake pipe, the ETM end of the pipe stays dry.

What grade oil do you use?synthetic??

Ive also thought putting a mesh on that big opening but havnt got around to it, it depends on the roads you drive on but then it only takes one rock. I was in Sweden/Finland over winter and seen alot of Volvos, none had any mesh.

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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by SuperHerman » Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:38 pm

Oil in the intake is pretty normal, but it should not be excessive. With those kind of miles the turbo will be getting a bit tired. Usual sign of a turbo on its last legs is smoke out the exhaust. Personally I would just rebuild the turbo you currently have.

Any change in turbo size will require some remapping. If you want to go down that route it is your decision. If you want to keep the plumbing concerns to a minimum I would look into rebuilding the existing turbo and doing wheel/blade work on it. Then figure out the mapping problems and boost issues. This will keep your plumbing changes to a minimum.

As your cam cover is off, I would redo your valve stem seals. You can use the rope technique and keep the head on.

Stonedraider88
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by Stonedraider88 » Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:26 am

Hi, thanks for the replies.

I use Valvoline 5w30 in thee summer and 0w30 in the winter, it is fully synthetic. I have tried Castrol, Shell and Mobil and all of them had a lot of burn or evaporation. I've been using Valvoline for the past 2 years exclusively.

Rebuilding the 16t is going to cost roughly the same as buying a rebuilt 24k. This was my original thoughts on it. If it costs the same, then why not, eh?

Herman: I did change the valve stem seals, the picture there is from a year ago. But I did do as much replacing as I could when the valve cover was off.

Also the road quality here in Russia, well it leaves a lot to be desired. So the mesh was a must. I have some friends back in the UK with the same P2 chassis, and they never had an issue with debris hitting the radiators. But since it was a new AC radiator and the bumper was off anyway, I thought might as well, costs peanuts anyway.

Back to the turbo. I have no blue smoke coming from the exhaust, and it doesn't smell of oil. Today the ambient temperature was 15 C and no smoke at all, not even condensation when I started the car. It sat there for about 24 hours. However the engine does consume about 2 or 2.5 liters of oil per 6k miles. I try to change the oil every 6k, sometimes I go over, but not by much. Oil always comes out black, however I haven't noticed metal shavings or a grey tin. The sediments are minimal and again no metal shavings.

I will upload some pictures of the charge piping.

Stonedraider88
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by Stonedraider88 » Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:32 am

Photos of the piping and other stuff
Attachments
IMG_20200423_161017.jpg
And the car itself
IMG_20200423_160956.jpg
Mesh screen upper part
IMG_20200423_160953_1.jpg
Mesh screen lower part
IMG_20200423_150144_1.jpg
Plastic pipe connecting to the rubber hose for the intercooler.
IMG_20200423_150129.jpg
Top side of the turbo, charge pipe is dry. Turbo has no leaks and is also dry from underneath.

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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by abscate » Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:35 am

Look inside the charge pipe.

You can dampen a paper towel with oil residue from a normally operating turbo. There should not be pools of oil, but it can be wet, certainly.

That looks pretty normal to me if it hasn’t been off for many miles
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Stonedraider88
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by Stonedraider88 » Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:17 am

abscate wrote:
Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:35 am
Look inside the charge pipe.

You can dampen a paper towel with oil residue from a normally operating turbo. There should not be pools of oil, but it can be wet, certainly.

That looks pretty normal to me if it hasn’t been off for many miles
Thanks. Yes when I was doing the radiators I took apart all of the piping, the plastic pipe was more or less ok, with some residue. The rubber hose however had a decent pool in it, roughly 50 ml, maybe slightly less. But it did flow and drip out the pipe. Looking at it, I think that rubber hose probably needs to be replaced anyway. I think the rubber has degraded being constantly in contact with oil.

I have some work to do on the car anyway. Just waiting for the parts to arrive. So when I am in a garage I will take a few more detailed pictures of the turbo and pipes that connect to it. I will also take off the charge piping and take a closer look on the inside. I need to replace thee stabilizer links in the rear and also the angle sensor. The head lights stopped auto adjusting and are stuck in the lowest position.

Also that pipe hasn't been touched for about 16k miles, or 11 months.

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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by - Pete - » Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:18 am

Nice job on all the work up to this point!
Those are my favorite 16” wheels on an XC70.

Like Superherman & Abscate said, oil in the pipes is to be expected. That rubber intercooler pipe is toast. They get saturated from heat & oil. By 250k yours probably looks like it’s begun to “boil”. The Rein replacement pipes are inexpensive and I feel of very good quality, far less expensive than the silicone “performance” pipes. Bottom line is you can’t really use oil in your various pipes as a definitive “turbo’s bad...” diagnosis.

Honestly, here is what I would do before you pursue the notion of rebuilding/replacing the turbo or compressor wheel. Replace that rubber pipe. Set up a manual boost gauge so you can see exactly how much psi your turbo is creating. The vacuum line that comes off the brass nipple on the intake manifold is a good one to use, cut the hose, “T/tee” in there & run your vac line up to the dash through the drivers/left front fender. In stock form your LPT (low pressure turbo) should peak out at 7-8psi.

Speaking of vacuum lines I would take your intake off and inspect all the vacuum lines that go back to the turbo/inlet/CBV. Your TCV could be getting flakey if it’s original as well (mounted on the side of the airbox). Replace those with original Pierburg only. No need for the aftermarket HD TCV’s, even if the ECM has a tune.

If you want more power without changing a single thing on the car (other than software), there are tunes available that you can add to the ECM remotely. On my 285k mile XC70 (original turbo, new piping) I have a tune, manual boost gauge, catted downpipe, & stock S60R (deleted) exhaust. It boosts consistently to 14psi. It also has oil in all the pipes.

Sorry for the length here, but based on color alone I would say your oil needs to be changed at shorter intervals. The interval should depend chiefly on the type of driving you do. Consistent short trips where the engine never gets hot are really bad for these. In that case you’d want shorter intervals. Consistent longer drive times would allow everything to get hot, purge the junk out, and permit slightly longer intervals. Rotella T6 is an excellent, low cost option.
2001 V70XC 146k
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Re: Oil in the intake

Post by vtl » Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:11 pm

I have measured compression ring clearance of 0.9 mm in the lowest position and 0.95 mm in the highest, on an engine with 350 kkm. There's a lot of blow-by gases flowing to crankcase through these gaps. Should be 0.2 mm on a new/rebuilt engine.

Do a glove test under boost (transmission in Drive, leg on brakes, rev up to 2500 for 2-3 seconds). The glove should not be inflating, in theory.
05 XC70 260k, 16 XC60 40k, 19 Tundra 1k

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