V70 R awd problems after removing internal dumpvalve

[Gambler]

Hi, im new to this forum and my english si kinda "meh" so i probably wont have all the technical terms/words right but ill try to explain as good as i can.

I bought a 98mod v70r awd from a local women who bought it new in 98, it has only gone 160k km and looks fine considering the age.
I bought a BSR air intake kit and mounted it, but after that the original dump vale sounds abit wierd (you probably know what i mean xD).
So i bougt a blanking plate (a serious PITA to mount) and a Hybrid BOV ( i have read somewere that it would maybe help abit with stalling problems VS one that dumps everything out in atmosphere).
The turbo was adjusted to 0,8bar when i bought it ( it has a chip) but now after i have put on blankingplate and new BOV the car just starts to vibrate and shake when i get up to max preasure, if i adjust the preasure down it vibrates less, im down to 0,4 now and its almost gone.
All this started after i put on that plate and BOV, the bov wont dump air either, it wont open so the air goes back through the turbo and make that funny sound, i use the same hose that was on the original vale and i also have the instrument inside car on same hose so i know it is vacom on it but it may be a bad vale but that dosnt explaint the vibrations and shaking.
Can it be the chip suddnly turn faulty?
The car runs normal on all other conditions, just not when i get max preassure.

Hope someone here can help

Ole

[Sommerfeldt]

Hey!

Where in creation did you find a 98 R with 160k and one owner around here?! Not that I'm envious of that at all.. no sir...

Okay, so you can't put a BOV on these, so what you read is right. A BOV would dump metered air into the void, when it should be in the engine. So routing it back to the intake is the way to go.

Anyway, at stock, the R should run about 11 psi (0.8 bar), spiking to almost 1 bar (~13 psi). So it seems to me that there's some shenanigans going on. The turbo pressure likely wasn't adjusted at all, and then I don't understand what the point of the chip tuning was. Could it be that it's not chip tuned? Also, where did you install the BOV?

The most logical thing to do is to put it back to stock, and see if the BOV is actually your issue. It sounds like bad misfiring, or even fuel cut, kind of, and seeing as the BOV is the only thing you've done to it, that's most likely the culprit. Instead of a BOV, I'd recommend either the heavy duty kit recirc kit from iPD, or a piston style valve (ran mine with the first for several years, then changed to a piston style when I turned up the power - both were very good), to keep things as close to stock while still making for better performance.

I still have the iPD kit if you're interested in trying that. I know it's a PITA to revert this to stock, but I think that's the best route. If you're in the Oslo area, let me know if you need an extra pair of hands.

- S

[Gambler]

hmm, fist thing first then

a woman bought it new in germany in 98 with all kinds of exstra specs and stuff and imported it in to norway in 01/02 and kept it since, found it on finn.no in oslo

it is a recipe on a chip, and i tought 0,6 was the standar preassure and when it was 0,8 with chip.

the original valve did not come of in one piece so thats not possible to put on again :p

but i did take opp the battery and went over some connectors what had vacum/preassure and now the shaking/vibrating is gone and i can do 0,6 again, so maybe it was a failsafe thing after the first spike that went up to 1,3bar.

i had a v70 LPT 193hp 10y ago and that had a open bov and it never was any trouble, thats why i was hoping a hybrid would do great now

Edit: if 0,8 is stock i can adjust up to 1bar isj when i have chip?

[Sommerfeldt]

Nice. Good find - they're getting rare.

Okay, so the stock is definitely 0.8 bar, kicking up to about 0.9 when called for. 0.6 is far too low for an R in any case - that's below baseline for any HPT 850 or V70. I'd expect there to be at least 1 bar if it's been tuned by someone.

Here's the thing. You can't increase boost pressure with a BOV. If you want to control boost pressures without digging into the ECU yourself or getting someone else to do it, you need to use a manual boost controller (MBC), but that's the only way to do it. You can, however, adjust the wastegate tension some, and move the boost curve, so you get full boost earlier. You need to also be careful with that, since that can lead to overboosting if you tighten it too much.

It's a little hard to tell what you actually did, and what actually was the issue, but I'd still recommend getting rid of the BOV and installing an actual recirc valve, stock, iPD or piston style in it where it's supposed to be. Like I said, I have an iPD unit laying around, so let me know if you'd like it.

- S

[Gambler]

okei, does the ipd make a better sound than the original? it just sounds horrible with the bsr intake kit

[Sommerfeldt]

Hehe... no, not really. The iPD kit is basically a sturdier diaphragm and three different springs to choose from.
When I switched to the piston style, though, that made a difference in sound for me at least. Sounded much more immediate, more like a BOV than the recirculation valve.

- S

[FLXC90]

Going back to a stock air box would be the option for reducing intake "noise" Using a BOV rather than a boost control valve (recirculating) can cause lagging problems upon re-accelerating or during shifts, and definitely keep in mind that boost increases low in the RPM band will cause these motors to bend rods. Does your car actually have a "chip" or is the ECU tuned?

[Gambler]

It says chip in the recipe, and as it is now i have around 0,5 at 2500rpm and 0,8 around 3000

[Gambler]

0.3bar drop in preassure from turbo -> intake, is that a bad ic?