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Brake / Strut Replacement

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Biggertuna
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Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by Biggertuna »

I’ll be changing out the front rotors and pads this weekend on my 03 V70 Base. I’m also planning to swap the struts/sway bar in a couple months once I save enough for the parts.

My question is whether I need to raise/jack both sides for these jobs, or can I simply raise/jack one side at a time for the work. I’m probably overthinking this, but want to make sure I don’t damage other components especially during the strut replacement.
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Re: Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by - Pete - »

For struts you can do just left or right side at one time. I figure, if you’re doing both sides anyhow, might as well get the entire front end off the ground. There’s a stamped mark on the underside of the subframe, almost in the center of it. It looks like this —> lOl
Get an old 2x4 maybe 3’ long, set that on your Jack, then position it centered on that mark on the subframe. That way you can safely jack up just the front end. You may need to drive the front tires up onto blocks of wood or ramps if you Jack isn’t low profile enough. Obviously always use jack stands for any part of the car that is off the ground.

Sway bar - either front or rear, both left and right sides must be off the ground to do any work related to sway bar or end links. Also for the front sway bar, it cannot be replaced unless you lower the rear of the front subframe. If you pull the subframe bolts it’d be a good idea to have new replacements ready to go back in. Another thing I feel is worthwhile, as long as you have the front subframe bolts out, is the IPD subframe bushing inserts. Easy to install & a palpable improvement.
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Re: Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by GlennG2759 »

Yes, listen to Pete's suggestion, if your thinking about lowering subframe definitely do the subframe bushing insert kit. Its about $35 plus 4 new bolts $8 each. I used 2" round galvanized pipe end cap , lots of lube (comes with kit), and floor jack to press them in. Did them on my 850 and V70 with noticeable difference in overall front end tightness. Good luck with your job.
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Re: Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by ndphotonl »

I did the polybush subframe inserts which really made a big transformation in cornering (much tighter), but it added vibration to the cabin. Please note that I also have polyurethane top engine mount, polyurethane gearbox mount and polyurethane inserts for the engine bar.

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Subframe Inserts by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr
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Re: Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by oragex »

I think it's always easier to work on both front wheels at once, even just for a brake job. It also helps reduce the sway bar torsion, still need a long pry bar to force it down when placing back the end links.
Get two quality jack stands, cheap ones have shown to have irregular welds - this is almost getting dangerous, check pics on Amazon
These are my jacking points www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gtY-IZQgfw
However if you need to lower the rear subframe, place the jack with a piece of 2x4 on the side reinforced area www.youtube.com/watch?v=if6r0ZnAkPg
Replacing the sway bar is another level, rear of subframe must be lowered significantly, exhaust detached at the manifold, lower steering coupler detached, end links also
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Re: Brake / Strut Replacement

Post by ndphotonl »

IPD has a written guide for replacing the sway bar, but there also should be videos on it on the Tube

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4891/10 ... ipd-106672

https://www.ipdusa.com/files/product/64 ... %20S60.PDF
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