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2004 S60 AWD at 150k mi - maintenance items

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csh
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Year and Model: 2004 S60
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csh

2004 S60 AWD at 150k mi - maintenance items

Post by csh » Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:54 pm

I replaced my S60 as my daily driver last year, but would like to hang on to it for a few more years as a standby/backup vehicle and winter beater when they salt the roads. I would like for it to be reasonably reliable for 4-5 years and maybe 20k miles. I've done all of the scheduled maintenance at this point. A little late, but I just did the PCV system and cleaned the throttle body. I just ordered a replacement turbo outlet hose and the lower intercooler hose. Is there anything else I should be considering at this point?

I am mainly concerned with something that could leave me on the side of the road or needing an expensive repair as opposed to something that would cause a check engine light or other nuisance.

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- Pete -
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Re: 2004 S60 AWD at 150k mi - maintenance items

Post by - Pete - » Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:25 pm

I’d try to install fresh spark plugs every 30-40k, this really seems to help reduce the tendency for ignition coils to go pop. If you did timing belt et.al around 100k I’d plan to do the next one around 170k-180k & also do a water pump & new coolant then as well. Since you’re 2004 you’ll probably be looking at Haldex/AOC/DEM pump repair. My first experience with a failed DEM pump was at 270k-ish miles on our now 288k mile 04 XC70.

There have been a rash of posts about failed DEM pumps recently so I’d say despite your relatively low miles it’s definitely something to keep in your radar. At least plan on changing out the AOC oil and filter if you can get the driveshaft free from its flanges. Also bevel gear oil & final drive (rear differential gear oil) if it’s never been done. A pneumatic fluid vacuum device is best for this job. Mityvac will work but you will have PT expenses & possibly lingering carpal tunnel symptoms.

Other than that, as I’m sure you know, suspension components such as front top mount bearing plates & spring seats are diy-able. Wheel bearings tend to go out between 150-160k as well so be listening for those sounds.

Also keep an eye on the front side of the engine (passenger side behind timing covers) for oil leaks. Frequent ATF flush/drain & fills keep these Aisin trans’s going a long time as well.
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csh
2001 V70XC 146k
2004 V70 AWD 141k
2004 V70R M66 144k
2004 XC70 287k
2006 XC70 155k Sold

csh
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Re: 2004 S60 AWD at 150k mi - maintenance items

Post by csh » Tue Jun 23, 2020 6:14 pm

Thanks for the list Pete!
- Pete - wrote:
Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:25 pm
I’d try to install fresh spark plugs every 30-40k, this really seems to help reduce the tendency for ignition coils to go pop.
I have a little time before I am due for a change. I do pay the extra for the Volvo plugs which I have been changing a little early based upon their recommended interval. If using the cheaper copper plugs I would probably go with 30k mi. I might go ahead and just install the cheaper plugs now. They are really not that difficult to change on this engine. I am still on my original set of coils and always wondered why they are offered as part of a kit and why people tend to change out a working set of coils.
If you did timing belt et.al around 100k I’d plan to do the next one around 170k-180k & also do a water pump & new coolant then as well.
Recommended interval is 120k which I stretched to 125k due timing, Changed the tensioner, idler, pump, coolant, and serpentine at the same time. I think I should be good till 220k or 2025 whichever comes first.
Since you’re 2004 you’ll probably be looking at Haldex/AOC/DEM pump repair. My first experience with a failed DEM pump was at 270k-ish miles on our now 288k mile 04 XC70.

There have been a rash of posts about failed DEM pumps recently so I’d say despite your relatively low miles it’s definitely something to keep in your radar. At least plan on changing out the AOC oil and filter if you can get the driveshaft free from its flanges. Also bevel gear oil & final drive (rear differential gear oil) if it’s never been done. A pneumatic fluid vacuum device is best for this job. Mityvac will work but you will have PT expenses & possibly lingering carpal tunnel symptoms.
Ugh, I did read one or more posts about the failed DEM pumps. Maybe I should take regular reading of the current draw of the pump to see if it is or will give me some warnings signs that it is going to fail. I'll give some though about changing out the AOC oil and filter. If it looks like it will be too difficult for me, I found a shop that I would be willing to farm it our to. Bevel gear oil is one of those things that I would not change the oil on as long as the level is correct. It is my understanding that in general, bevel gear failures are the result of an oil leak and are more prevalent in the wagons for some reason. I could be wrong though. That said I will go take second look for a bevel gear oil leak.
Other than that, as I’m sure you know, suspension components such as front top mount bearing plates & spring seats are diy-able. Wheel bearings tend to go out between 150-160k as well so be listening for those sounds.
Oh boy, do I have some experience with changing front suspension components. The first set of control arms I installed were cheap and made in china. They failed horribly within 40k miles. I'm not sure how these will hold up, but I have a set of Meyle HD ams installed. They are my second set of Meyle, but even though the first set had not failed I opted to go ahead and swap out the arms when I was installing new struts. Right now my front suspension is reasonably fresh. New arms, struts, spring seats, sway bar end links, and bump stops. I do regret not changing out the strut mount (bearing). Wheel bearings issue noted and I'll keep an ear out for that. I consider the front control arms one of the weak points on this car.
Also keep an eye on the front side of the engine (passenger side behind timing covers) for oil leaks. Frequent ATF flush/drain & fills keep these Aisin trans’s going a long time as well.
Only leaks so far is the low pressure power steering line and the intercooler hoses. Everything else looks good. I already snugged up the power steering hose. After I replace the intercooler hoses and clean things up I will keep an eye out for the cam bearings. Right now I am not leaving spots in the driveway/garage. Just did a drain an fill on the transmission and only changed out 3qts, so I may do another drain and fill soon.

After all the semi recent part changes, everything seems like it is almost new. With the exception of some sun damage to the leather interior, the black trim on the exterior and a couple of dings, the car looks great. A couple of years ago, I changed out the engine mount near the crank pulley which removed a fair amount of vibration and just recently changed out the lower torque rod which I think improved things a bit more. I have a urethane upper torque rod which I am going to change out and I bet after that the car will feel almost like new. At least in terms of engine vibration in the cabin.

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