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Driver Window

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo XC90s. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
netasp
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netasp

Driver Window

Post by netasp » Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:14 pm

Guys,
My locks were acting funny for some time, locking / unlocking on their own while driving, one day the driver window won't go up...no clicking and no power, so the driver side mirror and the lock won't work

I see the light comes own for the side mirror but the mirror won't move, I can lock / unlock all doors from the master switch except for the driver side. Remote control can lock/unlock all doors except for the driver side.

I tried two used master switches without any luck, fuse # 5 is good.

all wires seems to be tight and no visible cuts. any other suggestion?

cn90
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cn90

Re: Driver Window

Post by cn90 » Wed Jun 24, 2020 6:57 am

- Probably bad lock actuator.

- Re window, search forum for the $5 plastic sliding clips...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

netasp
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Re: Driver Window

Post by netasp » Wed Jun 24, 2020 7:05 am

I don't hear any clicking or motor movements when pressing the driver button. It seems to be no power is getting to all of the
1- driver side mirror
2- driver side lock
3- driver side window

I see power on the master switch, right side works or the driver rear window

chitownV
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chitownV

Re: Driver Window

Post by chitownV » Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:36 am

Since you don't hear the window motor moving and there is an erratic lock, maybe check wiring connectors for corrosion as a cheap check. Spray some contact cleaner. Then re-check the fuse in case a loose connection caused it to blow after you checked. Bad lock actuator might also go up/down erratically when you slam the door shut.

After this, then it would go to wire continuity tracing, starting with the grounds since there could be shared ground points (grouping) for the door electronics.
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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oragex
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Re: Driver Window

Post by oragex » Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:39 am

By master switch you mean you replaced the whole module with the buttons on the door ? The fuse for the other door is fine as well ? Same as above, look with a flashlight inside the connector for corrosion ? Were all locks acting or just driver's one ? If all that may indeed point at the dr door module. Perhaps also try remove the alarm siren fuse and do a reset with the key fob (lock-unlock dr door 3 times). Another lead is maybe the reverse mirror, it has inside the receptor for the key fob

netasp
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Re: Driver Window

Post by netasp » Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:49 am

only the driver lock was acting funny, locking / unlocking on its own when I was driving before going dead. The original master switch (whole module with buttons) was replaced with another used working one from eBay from the same year, I can hit the driver side mirror button and the light will come on, when using the little gear to move the mirror it won't move, now if I click on the right side mirror button, its green light will come on and i can move it just fine. The same thing apply to the rest of the windows and their locks.

tried to reverse fuse # 5 with #6 but it didn't do anything, so its not the fuse, not sure if there is a relay under the hood that i need to test? but I doubt a relay will control only the functionality of the driver door and not the whole master switch.

I opened up the old module and i didn't see any swollen capacitors nothing fishy, can I spray it with WD40?

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