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Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

Post by LuckeyMike » Sat Jun 27, 2020 6:44 pm

In my 1998 Volvo V70 base model, the rear window on the drivers side wont go down. The switch up front does not cause any movement or sounds. Same goes for trying to put it down from the rear door switch, BUT if I try to put it up it makes a noise. Any help?

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Re: Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

Post by misha » Sun Jun 28, 2020 5:12 am

You will need to remove door panel and check wiring and connections.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
'91 Citroen XM 2.0 SI /fully equipped/mandarine red metallic
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'73 144 De Luxe
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Re: Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

Post by scot850 » Sun Jun 28, 2020 12:37 pm

Also check the master switch on the driver's door. I think you can swap the 2 back door connectors on the master switch. Provided the other rear door window works normally this will eliminate or show a problem with the master switch. If the master switch is bad then the rear window switch won't work either.

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Re: Rear Drivers Side Window Won't go Down

Post by BEJinFbk » Mon Jun 29, 2020 6:37 pm

Most people have problems getting a window up, so count yourself lucky!
( And always carry a spare trash bag and some painter’s tape, just in case...)

Not getting it to roll down is usually caused by the same issue - Poor Switch Contacts.

Power reaches all of the windows by way of the master switch pack in the driver’s
armrest. With the exception of the driver’s window, power then travels through the
local switches in the other three doors. Bad switch contacts anywhere along the way
can disable either up or down operation.

When the switches are “at rest”, the contacts are all connected to ground.
When a switch is operated, it moves one of the two wires to the motor off
of the grounded contact over to power instead. When it’s operated the
other way, the same thing happens to the other wire going to the motor.
What it’s doing is switching polarity going to the motor to reverse direction.

The local switches are a little different, because at rest, they’re essentially
just pass throughs between the master and the motor. Again, all of the
switch contacts have to be in good shape for everything to work.

For a sanity check, you can unplug the connector at the local switch, identify the two
wires that run from the switch directly to the motor and apply 12 volts straight to the motor.

Apply voltage one way to put it down, then reverse polarity to run it back up.
( Always run this test with a fuse in the hot side of your test power leads ).
If everything functions as it should, then you can start chasing through switches.

Here’s a little something to help:
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

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