00 S70 GLT SE woes

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 14:21

this might be long-winded, and i apologize. i'll try to only include important info.

i hit a deer in 2016 and have been rebuilding it as time/finances have allowed. the core radiator support was broken along with the radiator mounts, hood, fender, and bumper took damage - but that was it. i replaced all of that. i decided if i was going to rebuild it, that i would make it as reliable and strong as possible. i'm very close to being finished, but something is wrong.

major work done:
-drained gas and replaced with 93
-white injectors
-pcv service with volvo parts
-timing belt replaced with all volvo oe parts, went back and checked timing and preload 10+ times because i was worried about it, though it's technically possible that i'm still doing it wrong. all of the marks are lined up every time i check it.
-vacuum lines replaced with silicone vacuum hose
-ipd silicone radiator hoses
-XemodeX ETM (cloned from original)
-do88 big intercooler
-snabb rip kit
-snabb charge air pipe
-ipd HD tcv
-volvo radiator
-volvo ac condenser
-crappy autozone ram air intake because the stock airbox wouldn't match up to the angle of the charge pipe, which i plan to replace with a good one after i get everything buttoned up
-bosch MAF sensor
-volvoe IAT sensor
-bosch platinum spark plugs
-a lot of suspension upgrades but not relevant

parts i have but have not installed yet:
-cbv spring upgrade kit - this one will probably go on my S60R because it's pointless for a LPT
-fuel filter - was going to put on after i ran a tank or two of new gas
-lower engine mounts - not really important to getting the engine running right

ZERO codes in vida or vdash 2.0

the car is making a very strange popping sound intermittently. sometimes it's 30 seconds apart, sometimes it's 2 seconds apart. it sounds like a poof of air - a pop, but at a low pitch. there's occasionally a small puff of white smoke out of the exhaust when it happens. idle is rough. throttle up is fine, but it wants to die when coming down to idle.

i do have some test equipment at my disposal which i plan to use if i need to, but at this point i'm just after direction. i have a 0-30v dc bench power supply if i need to test anything, a smoke machine on the way, compression tester, leak down tester, all the standard shop tools a person would have.

one thing i did notice when comparing the vida emissions diagram to the vacuum diagram is that they have two different lines running to the purge valve. oddly enough, my car never had a canister. there's an evap line running under the subframe. according to vida, it connects to the purge valve. according to the vacuum diagram, the line from the charge air pipe is what connects there. the way it is currently set up, i have the evap line going nowhere and the vac line from the charge air pipe going through the check valve, T's off to the intake manifold, continues towards the purge valve mounted on the fan shroud, passes through a second check valve (per the vac diagram) in to the purge valve. the other opening on the purge valve goes... nowhere. is it possible the evap line is meant to connect to the other side of the purge valve?

i can send pics to anyone and answer any questions as soon as i get a notification. there's also a vid i have on youtube of the noise it's making. i've tried to avoid bothering anyone for as long as i can. i'm just at a loss. thank you so much to anyone who took the time to read all of this, whether you have an answer for me or not.

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 14:30

i stand corrected. i was under the impression the evap canister was in the driver fender. diagram shows it in the rear of the car. it may very well be there.

Post by **scot850** » 27 Sep 2020, 16:35

You are correct. For your year it should be tucked up behind the RR passenger footwell. Bit of a bugger to get to. I found my V70 had 2 split pipes in that area. The 'J' pipe as well as a second one going to the roll over valve slightly forward of there.

Neil.

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 17:05

scot850 wrote: ↑27 Sep 2020, 16:35 You are correct. For your year it should be tucked up behind the RR passenger footwell. Bit of a bugger to get to. I found my V70 had 2 split pipes in that area. The 'J' pipe as well as a second one going to the roll over valve slightly forward of there.

Neil.

would that be enough to cause a terrible idle?

Post by **abscate** » 27 Sep 2020, 18:22

The other line on that T goes to,the intake manifold near cylinder 3, the hose runs under the intake manifold

The purge valve empties the carbon canister through the charge air pipe under boost, and the install manifold during normal,operation

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 18:48

got that all sorted out. idles a bit better. still has a little poof. did a compression test, left to right - 200, 170, 200, 190, 200. maybe i need a tune? it's running super rich.

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 19:06

my buddy seems to think i desperately need to get it tuned. i don't completely disagree... stage 1 at least. i'm waiting for my jump box to charge back up so i can do another compression test. i'll report the findings when i do.

i appreciate all of you.

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 21:22

well, tested it two more times and it's only getting to 140psi now dry. i don't know how it got to 170.

fresh70 · Post by **fresh70** » 27 Sep 2020, 21:33

squirted some oil in the cylinder... 200psi. so... worn piston rings? :/

Post by **FLXC90** » 27 Sep 2020, 21:45

So, how did it run prior to the accident? Has it basically sat for most of four years in a coma? How much run-time has it had since you started cranking it? Maybe the rings took a set and slightly bound. They could loosen up. pour a cap of seafoam in the cylinder and let it sit a day or so. Can't hurt, right? Do you have a borescope available to look for scoring? Or a leakdown tester for confirmation on rings?