Quality Suspension Components

98S70T5 · Post by **98S70T5** » 30 Dec 2020, 10:25

Guys, On my 98 S70T5 there seems to be more limited selection of front end control arms since they are the 2 bolt style rather than 4 bolt. Generally on aftermarket suspension parts I try to go Moog when I can. (Moog only appears to offer the 4 bolt style control arms here)

Last year I did struts/bearings plates/mounts. I used KYB struts (I have had plenty KYB products over the years and they were on close out for like 30 bucks a strut). Sachs bearing plates and spring mounts.

I used Beck and Arnley (due to lack of selection) control arms from rock auto and I forget which brand swaybar links I used. Fast forward a year or so and 20k miles and the LH ball joint is creaking loudly and one or both of my swabar links are loud again. I don't want to blow factory parts type of money on this car as it only needs to last a few more years but I don't want to be installing new parts every 20k miles.

Any input on parts previously used parts recommendations (IPD HD, Etc.) are appreciated. She's close to rolling over 200k and runs like a top.

Finally pinpointed my rear of the engine oil leak too. It's very hard to recreate the symptom running on jack stands but after a half hour of idiling or so after a thorough cleaning I am happy to report it just looks to be the turbo drain tube to cylinder block connection leaking. Parts ordered and on their way. Aftermarket oil cooler lines are already leaking at the lower hose to tube junctions after less than 10K miles.......

Thanks in advance and happy new year (lets close out this dumpster fire of a year).

Post by **abscate** » 30 Dec 2020, 12:00

It’s hard to stomach but people will take your money for car parts that will last 6 months. ,y experience is there is little middle ground on suspension parts, just solid stuff and junk

I’ve got 260k on my T5 and will sell at 300k, but I’m not going to put crap on for the next guy.

I use $25 an hour as my self imposed labor rate..if I save $100 on a part which takes 4 hours to install, it’s a false economy and also rewards people for making crap.

Cookeh · Post by **Cookeh** » 30 Dec 2020, 12:13

Moog do indeed make two-bolt control arms, with product numbers: rk620194 (R), rk620193 (L). They are in stock and ready for dispatch on moog's own US website.

Other good quality, reasonably priced aftermarket suppliers are Lemforder, MeyleHD, and Febi Bilstein. At least here in the UK, anyway, I don't know how manufacturing locations/processes/prices change as you cross into the USA.

Post by **misha** » 30 Dec 2020, 15:29

Just to add...Delphi and TRW.
Moog is good aftermarket brand which is actually a Federal Mogul.

Post by **FLXC90** » 31 Dec 2020, 04:23

The Meyle arms @FCP are a good value. quality versus price, I ran these on my 98 N/A for awhile. Key is to remember to set ride height before torqueing the bolts. Also FCP buy once. and free shipping

Post by **jreed** » 31 Dec 2020, 06:51

I have had good luck with the Lemforder control arms. On my '97 855, the original Volvo arms failed in the ball joints after about 13 years. I installed the Lemforders about 9-10 years ago and they have been working fine with no problems since then.

98S70T5 · Post by **98S70T5** » 31 Dec 2020, 07:33

Thanks guys! I will likely look at the Lemforders. Would really like to squeeze 2-4 more years out of this. Would put me at one more timing belt service and around 300K miles by then. (my grandpa ran the original timing belt out to 169,000

)

It drives great and tire wear is great it just creeks when you are close to the lock on the LH side and the links are noisy again. Moog makes a link that has grease zirks so I may go that route to keep them greased up (our roads in the city are pretty hot garbage).

Anyone need some RayBestos performance 302MM front rotors? I made a bonehead move and for some reason my brain was telling me all T5s had big brakes. I could upgrade but it's not extremely necessary. I just put new brake lines on it and everything else is in order. The Centric rotors I ordered before (correct size) are warped a bit and they are so cheap it's not even worth paying someone to turn them.

moodymama · Post by **moodymama** » 31 Dec 2020, 16:34

FLXC90 wrote: ↑31 Dec 2020, 04:23 The Meyle arms @FCP are a good value. quality versus price, I ran these on my 98 N/A for awhile. Key is to remember to set ride height before torqueing the bolts. Also FCP buy once. and free shipping

Hi can you explain setting ride height. Does it mean letting the car down then torquing?

Post by **jreed** » 01 Jan 2021, 07:22

I used a jack to raise up the control arm to set the 'normal ride height'. The classic description from Ozark Lee is well worth reading here:
viewtopic.php?p=269247#p269247

Here are the last steps in his write-up:
"9 ) Use a jack underneath the control arm, at the ball joint, to jack the control arm up to "normal ride height". That is more or less the point where the center of the hub is lined up with the lower door seam.

10 ) Torque the control arm to sub-frame bolts to 51 ft. lbs. + an additional 120 degrees. Given the clearances, I wind up doing the angle torquing in 3 or 4 steps."

Post by **scot850** » 01 Jan 2021, 09:00

I use ramps under the front wheels to torque the control arms. Gives enough room to get in there even for an old fat guy!

Happier New Year to all out there!

Neil.