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Rescuing Geronimo the 2000 V70

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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FireFox31
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Rescuing Geronimo the 2000 V70

Post by FireFox31 »

My friend has a 2000 V70 naturally aspirated automatic with over 300k miles. She has named it Geronimo. It recently went into limp mode, so I'm going to evaluate it and see if it's worth fixing. She would be grateful for any help you can provide with my diagnostic and repair questions.

Before I go see it, let me know if there's anything specific I can check or do while there to gain more info.

Here's what I know:
The car was driving fine up until four months ago. One day, the car would no longer drive over 10 mph.
At one point, she lost the gas cap so covered it with plastic film and a rubber band. She's worried that might have caused condensation in the tank so she added Dry Gas. She has since replaced the gas cap.
Mice moved in to the car. In my opinion, mouse pee smell in the cabin may be the deal breaker. Might also mean chewed wires.

What I'll check:
Look for up arrow on the dash suggesting a failed PNP switch? I know very little about this.
Run a compression test.
Typical visual evaluation including PCV oil leakage, rusty frozen brake calipers.

What else should be checked at 300k miles? Thanks for your help.
Last edited by FireFox31 on 24 Sep 2021, 00:51, edited 1 time in total.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Limp mode can be many things unfortunately on a 2000. It could be the trans, the ETM, a speed sensor, and more.

Do you have access to a good quality OBDII reader? A basic one may read engine codes but not transmission.

Ideally having access to a Vida/Dice system is the best to try to get codes to help diagnose the issues.

Is she able to start the car and even if running badly, take a picture of the dash warning likes? That may help us to have a guess at what may be likely candidate or candidates for issues.

Other than that it could be shooting in the dark until you get there, especially without any diagnostic equipment.

Has the transmission ever been serviced?

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
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ZionXIX
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Post by ZionXIX »

My limp home mode was caused by a failing PNP switch. Sometimes you can row the shifter from park to Low several times rapidly and see if it improves.
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Post by FireFox31 »

scot850 wrote: 23 Sep 2021, 15:00 Do you have access to a good quality OBDII reader? A basic one may read engine codes but not transmission.

Ideally having access to a Vida/Dice system is the best to try to get codes to help diagnose the issues.
Darn, I only have a basic OBDII reader. Looks like $410 for a laptop with VIDA and a DiCE. I'm going there tomorrow so wouldn't have this in time. Hopefully it's something simple which made the transmission stop working one day.
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Post by BlackBart »

Geronimo is a good name.

You don't suppose there's a freak chance the plastic wrap got sucked into the tank and then covered the fuel pickup....?
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FireFox31
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Post by FireFox31 »

This is Geronimo, a 2000 V70 FWD NA with almost 353,000 miles. The questions are: What's wrong with it and how much will it cost to fix?
Geronimo.jpg

The owner is a long time Volvo lover having previously owned a 240 (and more?). She really loves Geronimo and is truly happy that it may get to drive again.

Her goals for Geronimo are to fix it enough to drive it this winter, then spend money over time to make it more reliable. My goal is to determine how the car can be fixed, break the repair into phases, and give her a price for each repair phase. The phases I see are:
1 - Get out of the driveway
2 - Fix to drive to my garage
3 - Fix to drive this winter
4 - Fix for reliability

I recorded a lot of details on my initial evaluation. I'll try to post only the most relevant parts. That may miss some holistic info needed for good diagnoses.

I've never seen so much leaked fluid in an engine bay. There are leaks in the oil cap gasket, power steering tank, and transmission cooler lines at the radiator. There may be leaks in the transmission valve body cover, dipstick base, PCV / oil trap, and oil filter cover. This must all be cleaned to determine where leaks are coming from. What damage could be caused by having fluid all over the engine bay?
Since the primary problem is limp mode, I'm worried about the transmission fluid level. I couldn't find the transmission dipstick (among all the leaked fluid) in order to check it.
PXL_20210925_154529344.jpg
PXL_20210925_195346798.jpg

The engine idles very roughly, fluctuating its rpms. It sounds like one or more pulleys are failing. The engine (and passenger cabin) shakes at idle, mostly at front passenger's side, and I see the upper driver's side mount is cracked. When I quickly tap on the gas pedal, the engine surges an additional one or two times after I've stopped giving it gas. This video shows the rough idle, then the whining power steering pump (fluid is very low), then tapping the gas for 3x revs two times.


The key won't turn to position 0, stopping near it. Thus, the key can't be removed. The shift lever moves freely and its button is not stuck depressed (which would prevent the key from turning to 0). The owner drove it like this for a while, not locking it. The shift arrow blinks with the key in position II and when idling. I tried quickly rowing between D and 2 but this did not fix it.

Geronimo must love Christmas because the dash lit up like a tree. Using a basic Innova 3100a OBDII scanner, I pulled the following codes. Would it help to see them in the order the scanner presented them (I sorted them by number)? Would it help to see the letters active for each (ie: M, F, CC, C, EV, O, OH)? Would you like the freeze frame data (from P1600)?
P0135 (pending) O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Switch B Circuit
P0221 (pending) Throttle/Pedal Position Switch B Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0722 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P1600 ETS Malfunction
P1610 (pending) Ignition Discharge Module (IDM) Group D
P1618 Fault in Lead Between AW 50-52 an Motronic 4.3 (MIL Requested)
Some of these errors could have been caused by mice chewing wires (they're living in the air box), fluid in the engine bay hurting electrical components, or the control module box overheating because its air line is broken.
Here are the dash lights at idle. The shift arrow is flashing (not shown).
PXL_20210925_171139394.jpg

The car won't move because the brakes are frozen. This could get ugly. It's been parked on grass from Apr through Sept. The rotors are badly rusted. The parking brake lever won't pull up (the owner says it's been like that). Yet, three calipers look better than mine and service records show they were recently replaced.

The $500 new exhaust sounds like it's hollow. It has no tailpipe muffler, but neither does mine which sounds nicely muffled. It has a clean aftermarket middle muffler welded to the cat pipe. Did the owner get ripped off and is there a way to prove it for a refund?


Suspicious issues:
- There was no heat until the owner's son fixed it. I have to ask what he did.
- The air intake hose is disconnected at the air box base. It's pushed out of place by a crudely replaced transmission cooler line at the radiator. There's leaking where both trans cooler lines meet the radiator.
- Sparks flew up from the battery negative terminal when cranking during the compression test. No sparks flew when I turned the key with no plugs in (no cranks). The battery negative wire nut was only hand tightened.
- The coolant is overfilled yet the "coolant low" indicator light is on.
- I think this car was imported from Canada. The speedometer is primarily in mph but there's a Canadian sticker and import sticker in the driver's door. Would a USA CarFax show Canadian import?

The good news:
The glove test passed, pulling the glove gently into the oil fill hole.
I ran a compression test. The pressure reached 200 psi after six cranks on each cylinder. I'll post those results later.
Three calipers are newly rebuilt, so may be usable.
The interior is rather nice. Front seat bottoms are wrecked, sunroof headliner sags, but otherwise good.

Major needs:
Sensors and parts to fix DTCs, stuck key, rough idle, limp mode
Brake rotors, rear left caliper - all brakes frozen
Power steering tank - major leak
Timing belt - 20k miles overdue, done 11.5 years ago
Headlights - faded reflectors
Windshield - large crack

To do:
Check the transmission fluid level.
Check for leaking heater core.
Free the brakes and check the calipers.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 automatic, "the G70"

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Post by abscate »

The GRRRR-70 is definitely Canadian. Tipoffs are the check engine symbol vs lights , and fuel in liters vs the fractions gauge we get in South Canada

My take..

Codes

P0135 (pending) O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
> real code, newOXS or wire repair

P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Switch B Circuit
P0221 (pending) Throttle/Pedal Position Switch B Circuit Range/Performance
Fake code, probably fixed with ETB replacement


P0717 Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0722 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal

Possible abs module rework, but chewed wires could also be root cause.

P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
Cause of key problem or internal trans problem?

P1600 ETS Malfunction
Time for a visit from Albany 2000 V70 parts depot

P1610 (pending) Ignition Discharge Module (IDM) Group D
Double check code mapping


P1618 Fault in Lead Between AW 50-52 an Motronic 4.3 (MIL Requested)

Chewed wires?
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Post by ZionXIX »

Good Lord what an undertaking. You're gonna have to start somewhere and work your way around one step at a time. First things first start cleaning what you can see. It runs and that's a good starting point. You may want to remove the air intake just to get a better look around the transmission and wiring. A smoke test would be very helpful in finding those vacuum leaks
The transmission fluid dipstick is under the air snorkel with a short yellow handle right on top of the transmission. It's well hidden. It would not surprise me if you had some vacuum leaks so going though any hoses you can find and inspect for damage or just buy a roll of it and start replacing them regardless.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle

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Post by manovlov »

So, here's a link to the manual, it may help :
www.volvotips.com/brochures/850/Volvo-S ... Canada.pdf

+ 1 with Zion XIX. I'm not afraid by all this oil : some break cleaner will be a good start , when the engine will be dry, to see more clearly from where The Grany loses its means...

Not useful to spend money on new fluids, because leaks everywhere. Clean the engine from bottom as much as you can, refill where needed, turn the key and let the engine turns for a couple of minutes. Then, have a look under the old lady's petticoats.

I also agree with Neil, if you have to start from somewhere, check the transmission fluid level at first. Here's a link to our friend's video Robbi DIY on automatic transmission, you will see where's the dipstick :


I know that some petrol cars on these years have an issue with a part built by MAGNETI MARELLI the throttle body. To repair that part may be a bit expensive. But maybe in US you can find here an address to do that job for few bocks.

I would also check the fuel filter and the spare plugs.

Geronimo has a lot of nice tips, sunroof, Headlight washers... it's cool !

Manov
Vroum !

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Post by FireFox31 »

Big thanks to abscate for contacting me because he'd be driving through my area, removing the throttle body from the V70 I donated (and other parts), cleaning it, and meeting with me during his travels to hand it off. I'll bring it up to Geronimo and install it, hoping it clears the ETS codes and helps the car run better.

Will I need a VIDA computer to program the throttle body? The source and destination cars are 2000 V70 naturally aspirated, but the source is USA spec and the destination is Canada spec. Also the source is manual and destination is automatic.

While visiting the car, I'll try to remove all four brake calipers and rotors. I'll bring the calipers back to my garage for careful inspection and rehab, perhaps using pistons from some rear caliper cores abscate kindly provided. The rotors are covered in rust but I might try turning them on the metal shop lathe as an experiment in learning the machine and the process. Maybe they will still be comfortably within spec after turning and save $140 on new ones. Then there's the parking brakes which are seized, but I'll worry about that later.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 automatic, "the G70"

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