Fuel Pump Replacement DIY V70XC

Here are my thoughts/experiences with a fuel pump replacement on a 2000 Volvo V70XC. Of course, all the usual diclaimers apply. If you are doing this yourself then you assume ALL responsibility for doing it and doing it correctly and safely. If you have any doubts, pony up the money and take it to a mechanic.

[We interrupt this DIY Tutorial to tell you MVS reader Brian has graciously written what you’re looking at now, and that’s been covered here, and flirted with here and here. This writeup covers the procedure on an V70XC but the concepts are somewhat similar for the entire Volvo P80 family (850, S70, V70 up to 2000, V70XC, C70). For non-AWD cars it’s much less work — you don’t have to cut the floor: there is an access panel in the trunk. See this forum topic for the difference between AWD and FWD fuel systems. Many thanks to Brian for writing this excellent tutorial. — Matt]

My car died the other night. Of course it was right after I FILLED the fuel tank. Had it towed to my favorite independent Volvo shop.

They diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump. Estimate was $1600 plus tax. Immediately, I went here and found the info on doing it myself by cutting through the floor. I know this may be redundant, but I did want to add some details lacking from other posts. So here it is with pics.

Click on any of them and they will open to a much larger view.

Note that I felt it was worth the $95 diagnostic fee to know for sure. Plus, while it was in the shop, I had them drain the tank to just below the ’12’ mark on the guage.

Another $45 but well worth it as I had no reasonable way to do this. Figure I was at around 1/2 tank when I began.

1. Order new pump and o-ring seal.

2. I looked all over the web and found the best deal on a a Scan-Tech (aftermarket) pump from rmeuropean.com. Pump, seal (you’ll want to replace this) and FedEx overnight was $312.00 +/-. Part numbers:
Pump: 9470674
Seal: 9447179

Fuel tank/pump parts diagram.

3. Check the new pump. If you look at this picture of the old pump you will see the connectors. My ground (black wire) was broken at the slip on connector, but I did not realize this until AFTER everything was re-assembled and the car would not start! Seems the little plastic sleeve over the connector held it and the wire together, so it was not immediately obvious. 2 hours later, figured this out.

If you wish, you can hook up a 12-volt power source to the red and black and make sure it functions. Because I did not remove the tank, I decided to simply cut the wires and splice to the existing harness. Makes testing much easier.

4. Have all your tools and equipment. I did not have to buy much, but this stuff helped. Everything came from Harbor Freight except the Oil Filter Pliers which I had.

You can buy them from Home Depot and elsewhere I am sure. I bought the panel pliers and modified them to remove the gas lines. There are a lot of other suggestions here but I did not have a spare fork or spark plug wire pliers. I tried my non-plier type panel remover, but could not get it to work. See below for modification pics.

I felt most comfortable with the heat shrink connectors for the wires. The 1 1/2″ cutting discs were perfect as they were big enough to let me into the tight angles.

Used my Dremel and went through 2 of these. Just wore them down, no breakage. They are pretty tough. Do throw a lot of dust. The Oil Filter Pliers were perfect for removing the pump locking ring. I tried my oil filter wrench, but could not get it open wide enough. These were a no-brainer and were already in my toolbox.

5. Undo the fuel tank straps completely. You will need to remove a plastic panel on each side (3 nuts on each) under the car to access these. You can see these on the garage floor.

6. With everything out of the way, I noticed that my fuel lines were still snug up against the floor. This was going to make cutting near impossible. What I did was to remove or loosen the subframe bolts. There are three of them. Loosen them one at a time and you will see the separation between the frame and the body. 3/4 to 1 inch ought to do.

Once I did this, I picked up about 1/2 clearance between the fuel lines and the cut area. If you do remove them all support the subframe first! Loosening them should work.



6. I am paranoid when cutting around parts I do not want to cut. I put an old license plate between the lines and the floor and another (not pictured) between the cable shown and the floor.

I did not want to add any additional expense to this job by cutting something. Plus the bright yellow NM plates made it easy to see when I had completed my cut.


7. Remove rear passenger seat bottom and pull carpet and padding out of the way. Notice the cable going through at the lower right. I kept my cut to the inside of this.

8. Mark your cut. I used masking tape because I have a black car. I opted to cut sides and top only to preserve some sheet metal integrity and to make sure seat bracket would remain somewhat in the correct spot. Some people cut the sides and bottom, but to me, having a flap on the top would just get in the way.

9. Wear goggles and cut slowly. The cutting discs throw a lot of dust. Patience is key. Only cut as deep as you need to. Because this creates sparks, I had a portable fan blowing under the car to disperse any gas fumes as the mechanic at the shop had failed to re-install the locking ring completely and it is a pain to do with lines connected.

Plus I don’t think my neighbors in my condo would have appreciated me blowing the place up. Since I knew I would be working close to the cuts, I used my dremel to smooth down any ragged, blood producing edges.

10. Remove the fuel lines. These are held in place by a special fitting. You need to lift the bottom ring of the fitting and the line will lift off. Here is how I modified the pliers to work. Bent up the inner prongs, ground them flat and them ground the outside edges of the outer prongs so they would fit. Simply put them under the clamp, squeezed the handles and the fittings came off. Good thing it was so easy as I had to do it twice! Here are before and after of the pliers.


11. I chose to cut the wires insted of fishing the complete new harness. It is your choice. If you do cut, cut them close to where they go into the pump so you have plenty of wire to work with.

12. Remove the hose clamp that is around the pump locking ring. Hopefully the screw is accessible. My mechanic said it was not necessary to put it back on but I did anyway.

13. Using your Oil Filter Pliers or wrench, remove the pump locking ring from the bottom. Or you can spring for $60 and buy the special Volvo tool and do it from the top.

14. Remove the old pump. You will have to twist and turn it to get it out, but it comes out with NO FORCE. Beware that the intake tube will be holding about a pint of gas.

15. At this point I prepared the cut to be re-attached. First I covered the tank opening with plastic and held it in place with rubber bands. Then I cut two pieces of 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum from Lowes. I held them in place with vise grips and then drilled the holes. These I attached to the floor with machine screws and nuts. I then laid the cut piece back in place and drilled the second set of holes. Pay attention where you drill. If you look closely at the next pictures, you can see that I had to reposition the top holes because once the lines were re-attached the screws would have hit them.

16. Okay, now install the new pump. Put the new O-ring seal on first and then put in the pump. When I tried to screw on the locking ring, it just would not grab. I cleaned it and the tank threads and applied a little lube. Went right on. Screw it down and install the big hose clamp. Next re-attach the fuel lines. These will need a bit of pressure to lock them in place. Pull on them to be sure thay are secure. Just as a side note, I had to remove my aluminum strips before the lines would go back on as they kept the lines from being raised high enough to clear. I cut the wires on the new pump, leaving about 4 inches attached to the new pump. I put a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires so I could later seal it over the connectors for a completely dry and worry-free installation. Then stripped and crimped all the wires. The two white wires are for the fuel gauge and it should not matter which you connect to which.

The red and black are obviously hooked to the red and black. I heated the connectors to shrink and had also put on a piece of heat shrink tubing first. I then heated that. Tuck the wires away.

I put some metal tape along the top edge. As I could not fit an aluminum strip there, I wanted to have something in place to catch the sealant I applied later. It was bent back in the photo but goes all the way across the top.

17. I used self tapping sheet metal screws to close the cut and sealed it with black silicone. I let the silicone dry for a day which actually seem to add some structural integrity.

I covered the cut with metal tape and put it all back together.


My estimate is 1.5 hours to prep, cut and remove pump. Another 1-1.5 hours to re-install, close the opening, seal and re-install everything. You should be at about 3 hrs total as long as you don’t do like I did and install a pump with a broken wire. My total out of pocket was about $475 including the parts, tools, diagnostic fee and tank emptying.

GOOD LUCK!

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15 Replies to “Fuel Pump Replacement DIY V70XC”

  1. This is an excellent DIY write up. But there is an important step described here that is not the correct way to do it. If done wrong, it could be a major SAFETY ISSUE.

    Post #6 by David Sanders mentioned a “clip fell out” of the line and he could not reattach it. He probably damaged it by yanking it off instead of using the correct tool.

    When removing the fuel lines, there are barbed fittings that snap on/around the pump lines’ attachment rings.

    Pulling the lines off with panel pliers or a bent fork or spark plug pliers could damage the snap-hold fittings and create the possibility for the fuel line to come off, and obviously this could be very bad.

    They are 5/16 fuel lines and one tool to use to do this properly is “Lisle 5/16″ Angled Fuel Line Disconnect Tool, Part number 39410.” At O’Reilly Auto Parts cost $3.98. Pull up slightly on line, slip tool under and around line, then push the line down onto the tool while pulling up off the pump. EASY. No Damage to the line attachment barbs.

    Or Amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39410-Fuel-Line-Disconnect/dp/B003V5BZRI

    1. Well,

      Please disregard the my post above. The Lisle fuel tool is not for this type of fuel connection.

      Other posters were more correct. It is a plastic locking tab inside the bottom of the fuel line. It does indeed need to be pushed up into the fuel line as you carefully lift them off the pump pipes.

      One thing I did learn was an easier/faster way to cut the sheet metal on the floor. It used a 1/2 inch wood chisel to tap through the metal. I tried the cutting wheel on my rotary tool and that was dusty as heck and taking forever. Just angle the chisel so one corner pokes through the metal. Tap with a hammer until you cut about 1/8th inch and just slowly work your way around 3 sides like am old-fashioned can opener. Leave the bottom intact.

  2. Do you happen to know of any store that sells just the special fittings? The ones on mine were way too rusted so we torched them off. I’d appreciate it if you could help with this. Thanks

  3. Thanks for the great writeup. I had the trim tool and oil filter wrench both from Harbor Freight. I had a heck of a time with removing the fuel lines. I finally got some better light in there and saw there are some plastic rings below the metal parts of the connectors, those are what need to be moved up into the connector to remove the fuel lines. I hated hacking up my car but it runs now

  4. Hi
    Followed your advice… Only problem is that now the gas gauge stops at half… Goes right to full after fill up, after 250 kms or so, stays on half … Never shows empty

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  6. Having trouble draining tank, siphon hose will not go past obstruction about 2-3 feet down, tried variety of different size hose, down to about 1/4in. Suction pump will only pull about 8oz from fuel rail pressure relief valve. Will try method of removing RH trailing arm, VC, etc, first before cutting floor to access pump for replacement. What a nightmare!

  7. just completed the job. Thanks for your complete instructions. Some addl tips/suggestions in no particular order: 1. why use ScanTech when Tasca Volvo sold me a Volvo OEM in the nice blue box for $283 plus about $5 for a new plastic screw ring [it is called a nut in database] 2. put the new pump in and get it all set BEFORE you do the re-attach stuff with all the drilling , etc. It is too dangerous to be doing that with only a plastic sheet and rubber band over an open gas tank. 3. the fuel fitting easily come off using an escargot fork or similar three pronged for that you simply bend the middle for out of the way. 4. before you re-attach the ring nut, coat threads and the inner surface of the ring that presses against the new metal pump flange with SylGlide. Makes screw down and later removal so easy. 5. put the rubber gasket in place in the gastank hole and then press the new pump flange into the hole. This is much easier than with the gasket on the new part. 6. Before you re-attach the floor pan, run the car and more importantly, go fill up the tank to ‘F’ to be sure that you don’t have leaks. Who wants to tear open the floor again needlessly.

  8. I replaced the pump as per the instructions which were very good but the clip on one line fell out and now I can’t get it to connect to the new pump. Any help?

  9. Hi
    I have a 98 V70R and just replaced the fuel pump in the manner you suggested.
    Fuel gauge worked fine before,now when it reaches half full, it stop and keeps reading half. Thought I was getting awesome mileage after the pump.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks

  10. hey really appreciate the detail information and tips on getting to the fuel pump. DIY is the way to go these days because most shops want to take advantage of the consumers lack of knowledge.

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