Think your Volvo has a clogged PCV? Keep reading.
A clogged PCV valve will not only causes sludge, but the inability to vent those obnoxious gases such as moisture, condensation, blowby, etc. will accelerate the deterioration of your otherwise still lots of life left motor oil.
If you choose to ignore it, your engine will start burning oil fairly soon due to oil control ring sticking(jammed) due to decomposed motor oil. Also: most seals, such as cam/crank esp. valve stem seals, the elastomers do not take deteriorated motor oil very well and will become brittle/hardened as the elastomer materials being attacked by these polluted motor oils. As a consequence: your engine will start to burn oil far sooner than expected.
MVS Forum Member 97Volvo850GLT asks:
I have a 97 850 GLT (Turbo) and have an oil leak which I think was from an oil pan replacement I did a few months back.
I took the car in to the dealer today for a tranny flush/fluid change and they noticed the leak and said it was caused by a clogged PCV system. They quoted me $800 (canadian): $300 parts and $500 labour.
Also. I had previously noticed oil on the upper intake around the plug wires which I guess is coming from the oil cap.
OK here’s the deal, I can think of better things to do with $800 so what can I do myself to fix/clean my PCV system (and change the right hoses etc)? Is there a PCV system on turbos?
My car has 208,000 kms.
MVS Forum Member White850Turbo replied:
- Ok, for some reason, Volvo likes to overengineer things and the PCV system is one of those things. Now, what you’ll want to do is look down at the fresh air intake pipe right before the turbo. You should see something like what is in this diagram. Now, unplug all of those lines and check for clogging and clean as necessary. Sometimes, those lines are all that get clogged and you get off easy by only having to clean them out. Usually though, the problem lies deeper.
- So, what you’ll have to do is pull the intake manifold. You have a ’95 model, which does have EGR, and makes the job a big pain in the neck.
- Now, what you’ll want to start with is unhooking the intercooler hose that goes to the throttle body and you’ll also want to loosen the bracket that holds the hard IC piping over the engine. Then there are several other hoses that must be detached from the intake manifold up front on the driver’s side. One of them is the evap valve hose and one is the CBV hose.
- You’ll then want to detach the hose from the Idle Air Control Valve, the silver cylindrical thing up near the manifold. That should cover all hoses that need to be removed.
- Next, you’ll want to unbolt the dipstick tube from the manifold. This one is tough to get to b/c you have to do it from underneath the car using a combination of long ratchet reaches to access it. I believe it’s a 12 mm bolt. You can then just rest the dipstick tube against the fan shroud once loose.