Replacing Exhaust on Volvo 140 Cars

Replacing Exhaust | I have a 1973 145 (B20F). When I got it the exhaust was pretty well shot so I had a muffler shop put on a new exhaust

MattinEugene » I have a 73 145 (B20F). When I got it the exhaust was pretty well shot, so I had a muffler shop put on a new exhaust. It sounds like a farm tractor. I believe originally they had two mufflers (and a resonator?). I’ve had a different muffler put on, and it still sounds terrible. Is there any way to get this to be a normal, quiet car, short of buying the complete exhaust system from somewhere like VP Classics? Love the car but it’s an embarrassment to drive like this.

BlackBart » The original Volvo mufflers are high quality glasspack(absorption) type mufflers. I go with a stock B20E system or one of the popular Scandik brand kits for a stockish engine. Original B20BE & E’s do make good HP/Cubic inch & part of the reason is because the exhaust system is good.

If you’re looking at Volvo style mufflers, looking up the inlet end reveals a straight through glass pack design with perforated holes, looking in the other end reveals a mandrel 80+ degree bend. 2″ OD for B20B & 2.125″ OD for B20E’s.

For a stock head B20, I’d use a stockish exhaust manifold & I’d like to try an engine pipe with it’s dual 1.75″ pipes lengthened to 24″ feeding into a 2.125″ pipe that joins the 2 pipes to the first muffler. A megaphone that steps the 2.125″ pipe up to 2.5″ mufflers with a 2.5″ over axle pipe leading in to a 2nd muffler would be good & then if this is too loud, you could neck the tail pipe that leads out of the last muffler back down in size to 2.125″. Remember the the exhaust gasses are cooling after they leave the engine & that reducing the exhaust size at the tail end doesn’t restrict as much as you’d think because the volume of gas is much less by the time it gets to the end of the car.

Replacing exhaust on a Volvo 140

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