Volvo 850, S70, V70, C70 And XC70 Car Tips
This page is a record of owners’ Volvo problems, car tips, questions and fixes. The items vary from routine maintenance to performance upgrades. The car tips and fixes on this page are primarily for Volvo 850, Volvo S70, V70 and XC models. There is no organization to this page… the car tips are ones I’ve seen over the years on chat boards and collected here for you. If you want to ask a question and get an answer, go straight to my Volvo Repair Forum.
Reading OBDII Codes, 1997 and newer
Your Volvo stores information on how the car is running. If there’s a fault(s), that fault will be stored as a code in the computer’s memory. The fault may or may not also trigger a warning light like “Check Engine” or the dreaded flashing arrow. To see these codes on 1997 and newer Volvos, you must take your Volvo to:
- a Volvo Dealer (call first to check price, reading should be free)
- independent mechanic (call first to check price, reading should be free)
- parts supplier (call first to check price, reading should be free)
- or buy an OBDII tool to do it yourself ($100 – 300)
Having an OBDII code reader is useless and a waste of money — if you have a shop nearby that’ll read your codes for you for free. The Volvo dealer near me did it a couple times for me, then I traded some advertising on this site for it.
I’d get a Palm device-compatible code reader software product. Anything over $100 is a rip, in my opinion, but you may not be able to find anything less than that.
Freezing Intercooler Limits RPM
Had same problem – key thing is that it occurs only in very cold weather. Turned out that the intercooler was freezing. This restricts airflow to the engine as all air flow goes through intercooler after air filter and into intake manifold. So, if it is restricted then you can’t get enough air through to the engine. This naturally limits rpm.
Key diagnostic is to have somebody get the car to as high rpm as it will go will you have the hood open and look at the air hoses going to intercooler (this is around radiator at front of engine) If restricted airflow is the problem, then the hose collapses. You can visually see that happening on that big hose going to intercooler.
The tricky part is why did the intercooler freeze? Well… that means you have a lot of moisture in the system. I had blocked crankcase ventilation system that caused oil and moisture to be introduced into the airflow stream.
Had to fix this problem in the end and since then fine. Runs better in all conditions now.
So, your problem is probably intercooler freezing. This can be something that will go away and is due to normal moisture in the system or could be due to like me something causing extra moisture in the system.
Wheels, Brakes and Vibration
I’m a Volvo person since 1981. I fix, drive and teach Volvo. In my experience, usually non-Volvo parts and ‘air-ratchets’ are the main cause of all the vibration/noises. If your mechanic uses an air- ratchet to tighten the wheels, most likely the damage has been done.
Only takes one time to permanently warp a wheel hub and consequently replacing or turning brake discs will NOT solve the problem. Most of the times, special grease, only solves squeaking /squealing noises. Groening its mostly associated with a resurfaced rotor (Volvos dont like rotors turned) if the rotor is bellow specs, replace it. My advice: If you cant live with the noise, do your self a favor and take your vehicle to an authorized Volvo dealer, and give them as much detail as possible on the previous repair attempts. Good luck!!!
Shifting from park
The micro switch failure is when you cannot shift out of Park and you have to press the “Shiftlock Release” button to shift. The PNP switch failure is when you see the dreaded Flashing Arrow. The car stays at 3rd gear and drives REALLY slow. Shifting it back and forth cleans the contacts but it think it’ll eventually fail. Apparently this problem shows up in cold weather. It’s starting to get cold here in So Cal. It was 72 today!!! I just had the PNP switch replaced yesterday for exact same problem by a local mechanic for about $225. A recent post stated the dealership charges almost $400. I had to take it back today cuz the mechanic accidentally dislodged some tubing and it started leaking transmission fluid. They fixed it quickly though. Good luck.
Tire Aspect Ratio Car tips
My 850 has 205/55/16’s on it, and they rub the wheel wells a bit on tight turns. The official size is 205/50/16, but these are hard to find, and this post if for all you who run the larger size. Keep an eye on the rubbing and especially the black plastic nuts that keep the wheel wells attached to the body. When these get popped off from rubbing, the well wells can crack due to lack of support, and the bumper will sag a bit off the height of the trim.
Change Your Timing Belt When Due
The engine in the 850, S70, V70 is known as an interference engine. Without the timing belt the valves, lifters and cylinder heads all have no control and all beat the hell out of each other. Simply put if the timing belt breaks engine will be in need of thousands of dollars worth of repair. To me not worth taking the chance.
Headlight Washer Fluid Valve Fix
I ended up replacing the T valve that splits the washer liquid stream to the headlight wiper arms’ squirt heads. I found this to be the defective part of the system by blowing into the various tubes that connect the headlight washer system. I ended up removing the passenger headlight but this is not necessary. If you do, it’s three bolts that hold it in, and getting the bottom outside one out was helped by taking out the top bolt on the hood latch and swiveling this back a few centimeters (you’ll see what I mean).
Note: When I found the culprit, the lower T valve, I removed it and called Barrier Volvo in Bellevue, Washington and began to describe it. I said,”I need a T valve, it’s for the headlite wiper squirters…” and the guy cut me off…, “It’s $9.85 and in stock.” He knew exactly what I was talking about. This means they see this problem all the time. The trick to this whole repair is to find the valve. I suggest doing this: follow the tube from the drivers headlight by feeling for it in the clip retainers near the horns. Make sure you have the right line by playing push/pull with the tube where it comes out to meet up with the wiper.
From there, follow it to the left, toward the passenger side, unclipping it if you need to. I found that I could pull the T valve and two other tubes out in front of the radiator to see that I had the right piece. If you do it this way, you won’t have to remove the headlight, not that it helps that much anyway. You may have to unfasten the passenger side washer fluid tube from the wiper to give slack for this operation.
Broken Horn Fix
Its very important to disconnect the battery first. Otherwise the airbag light goes on and you need the dealer to turn it off for a nice $85 fee. It should be the last thing to be plugged back in also. — Jeff
This is from memory: There are I think 4 horn contacts inside the steering wheel. They go thru a metal frame and are held in place and insulated by red plastic around each contact. The contacts normally sit just below a piece of metal on the back side of the airbag, so when you push on the horn it touches at least one of those contacts and blasts the horn. This makes more sense when you see it.
In my car the plastic that holds one of the contacts in place broke and allowed the metal contact to move just enough to touch the metal frame, making a permanent circuit. Apparently this is not exactly your problem, I guess in yours the contacts completely fell out or otherwise are not where they need to be to complete the circuit. Anyway, in my car because the plastic insulator had not completely disintegrated I was able to epoxy the thing back in place. That was only last December – it still works, but I don’t blow the horn very much.
Since you get a pathetic millisecond honk I bet at least one of your contacts is in good enough shape to glue back in. If on the other hand the plastic insulation is gone you have to decide how much fabricating you want to do to fix it.
If you want to take a stab at it here are the details (again from memory)
– disconnect the battery
– turn the wheel all the way to one side. There is a hole on the back of the wheel, inside there is a t-30 torx screw. Remove that.
– turn all the way to the other side. Remove torx screw.
– airbag is now loose. Unhook electrical connector and put airbag in a safe place. (I put mine on the kitchen counter while I worked. When I went back inside my 16 year old son was juggling the airbag. Really.)
– look for broken red plastic parts. I think they are on the back side of the frame, kind of hard to see.
If you do try to fix it I would test the connections with an ohmmeter before reassembling. If fact, before I started the job I poked around for a while with an ohmmeter figuring out how the whole thing works. Maybe it’ll be obvious to you.
Standard disclaimer about airbags and such – you have to remove the airbag to do this job, it’s up to you to decide whether you want to mess with that. I am not an expert at this stuff. The contributors who know more than I do say you shouldn’t put an ohmmeter across the airbag contacts. And finally my own tidbit – don’t let your torx bit roll down the steering column, you’ll never find it.
And remember to have your radio code handy when you reattach the battery or you’re in for a trip to the dealer.
Broken Horn Fix 2
I fixed mine by drilling out the hole one size larger( being careful to file off the burr on the backside), pushed a small grommet (meant to be used for sheet metal) into the hole, applied a little silicone to the pin, pushed the pin into the hole. perfect- should have been made this way in the first place.
Rear shock clunk
It may or may not be the same situation, but I’ll tell you about my recent experience. I too was hearing a “ker-plunk”, but in the rear of my car. I have Bilstein’s and IPD’s springs all the way around. When I bounced the car up and down, I could see the shock piston move vertically in the upper rear shock mount. I thought it was a bad mount (50K miles), so I replaced both of them. The noise was still there. I called IPD and they told me that Bilstein produced some shocks where the threads don’t go down far enough to allow the shock to be really tightened down. They recommended a couple of washers under the nut. Sure enough, two 3/8″ washers under each nut did the job. It feels like a new car.
The front mounts on the 850, S70, V70’s are a known weak link, but it might be worth placing a couple of washers under the bolt and see if that cinches the piston down. But then again, it could be that the mount has gone south.
Having tried Bilstein’s, KYB, Koni, and Tokico over the years, in three different cars, I really like the feel of Bilstein’s. They instill confidence. And with a lifetime warrantee, you don’t have to buy another pair. One car (300K+ miles) is on its third set in 19 years. The last two sets were free, sans the labor to install them.
Custom made downpipe – more hp
A larger downpipe is the next logical step in your case I think. You can go with a 2.5″ or 3″ but with a 3″ you’ll get better top end but at the expense of low end response. A 2.5″ gives gains in both but just not as extreme in the top end as the 3″ DP. Some like 3″ while others go with 2.5″ but whatever you do, try to go with a custom mandrel bent DP – you should end up saving quite a bit over bolt-on ones from TME (I know IPD no longer offers these in N. America) or SAM, etc. And don’t forget to have a flex pipe added to the DP as well – this reduces exhaust vibration and the liklihood of cracking exhaust components.
O2 sensor part fix
I found a generic 4 wire sensor from Bosch at Auto Zone. Bosch #15717. Spliced it in, reset the check engine light and it fixed the problem. It cost $49.95 vs. $200 from Volvo. I couldn’t be more pleased.
What to replace when replacing shocks
S I N
Strut mount/bearing plate, rear shock mount, bolts, nuts, should be replaced regardless of failure. Stablizer rods, control arms/tie-rod, spring retainers are things you should inspect and replace only if necessary.
Transmission fluid flush
Piece of cake to flush yourself. Remove exit hose from tranny to radiator at the radiator attachment point. A snap-ring pliar is highly recommended to remove clamp. It looks like you can do it with a screw driver, but clamp damage is highly probable, and you don’t want it blowing off later in traffic.
Run engine until bubbles show up (clear hose is nice–and 850, S70, V70’s are kind to the mechanic because the drain is on the driver’s side, allowing one to watch the progress out the driver’s window), shud down, add a couple quarts of tranny fluid, then keep repeating until you are satisfied it is clean–I think I pumped 9 quarts through my wife’s 96 turbo wagon with 85K and wished I had had about three more quarts to get it crystal clear. Top it off and put the hose back on. I used Castrol synthetic blend mostly because I could not find pure synthetic locally. And I think I would rather go with more frequent changes at a lower cost rather than extended service with synthetic.
Before O2 replace, check elbows
Thanks to the anonymous denizen of bay 13, there’s a new scheduled maintenance item for our T5’s. There is a vacuum hose at the top front of the engine that sneaks under the fuel rail. At the top end, there’s an elbow that rots out pretty quickly, letting false air into the hose. This can trigger O2 sensor problems. WAIT, there’s another. Lean over the engine (on the driver’s side) and from the top of the engine (almost right under the top engine brace) there’s another identical elbow that is probably rotted out. Go to the Volvo place and purchase both elbows (about $3 Cdn each), install them, clear your codes and you just might find the O2 problem gone.
Better to spend the $6 rather than the $500 (for the O2 sensor parts alone). While you’re there, you might see the rubber donut thingee in the top engine mount is snapped. It isn’t dangerous, but can cause some engine movement and subtle noises. Easy to replace, about $30 Cdn from Volvo.
Cleaning the Throttle Body
You will see a black plastic cover with a single torx screw holding it down. Unscrew, remove plastic. You will now see the intake, the throttle body and the throttle wheel. Disconnect the intake from the throttle body. At this point, you have two options. You can use an O2 sensor friendly throttle body/carb cleaner, or remove it, and clean with the same thing. It helps to use a toothbrush to scrub the unbelievable amounts of oil blowby, varnish, gum, carbon deposits, etc. Reinstall other parts. Takes about 30 minutes from start to finish.
Horn Relocation – This one’s easy. Simply remove the single bolt that holds each horn to the behind-grill aseembly. Take care to hold onto the bolts and nuts. Use a little tape to mark driver and passenger side horns on both the horns and the horn wiring. Snake the wiring between the evaporator and the bumper to the plastic area below the grey part of the bumper on the side of the car on the driver side.
In that area, you will find a piece of metal with two holes already punched/drilled/cast into it. One hole will be the correct size to use the existing bolt, the other will be a little small. You have two options, drill the smaller hole out a little, or use a slightly smaller bolt. Use the extra piece of metal armature that was used to mount the horns at the front, to help position the horns such that they are not visible below the front air dam from either the front or the rear. VERY IMPORTANT -> Make sure the horn openings face downwards so that any water that gets in there drains out. Simply tighten things up and replug the wiring. You may want to use a lock-tie here or there to snug up any excess wiring you may have.
Lowering an 850, S70, V70
Bilstein shocks will give a firmer ride, and they match very well with IPD/TME springs. in my experience, Volvo Sport (not ornery Turbo) springs are harder than IPD/TME ones. also, IPD/TME springs are “softer” than Eibachs.
Note, on my wagon, the Bilsteins actually RAISED the Fr ride height, originally there was a 20mm gap beween top of tyre n wheel arch. with the Bils this gap increased to 40mm. after installing TME R springs the gap reverted to the original 20mm, so in the end i did not get ay lowering, but heckuva improvment over the originally harsh ride. inner fenders).
All about improving performance: Chips
IPD’s upgrade gives you 0.9bar, only TME (IPD’s parent source for the upgraded ECUs) give you 1.0bar. and I’m afraid the licensing agrt between the 2 may bar you from ordering a ECU upgrade direct from TME, Sweden for Nth American residents.
Now I’m not too sure WHY – I’m no “techie” and this is an educated guess – but i believe SAM simply replicated the stock Volvo tuning below 0.7 bar, mebbe at around 0.6bar would be a closer bet, they then added their own programming at this point, and anything above 0.6bar is their own. THAT’s why IMHO, driving my T5 feels pretty much stock unless i kickdown and push past 0.6bar. you’re rite of course, in real world speed trials 0-60 between a SAM and TME wouldnt be any different, and as a matter of fact, it wasnt, judging from my acceleration test with a friend’s TME equipped car. in fact i was drawing 2 feet ahead approaching 160kmh, but i’d put that down to the fact i have a full S/sprint exos while he was on stock.
sure SAM produces much more than stock output, they claim 275hp, while TME claims 285hp. when i apply max kickdown on my SAM at anyting below 60kmh, the Fr tyres spin so bad (in the dry!), it’s positively embarassing!
BUT driving a TME ECUed car in town (we swopped ECUs for comparo) is more enjoyable cos the program “improves” on Volvo’s stock one. Picture your original ride with all that low-down lag, well, on my ride, the lag’s still there with SAM, while TME allows for instant boost. in fact boost comes in so fast, that i noticed when using TME, i frequently had to apply the brakes hard to avoid rear-ending the vehicle in front which only just a momoent ago was a great distance away! my friend’s verdict on my SAM echoes my own views – “It’s just like stock, until you push hard”.
Proviso – my experience is with TME 1.0bar but I’d imagine IPD’s is the same, only they max out at 0.9bar.
ATF flush: step-by-step
1. RE: “ATF is not a service item”, the owner manual says “no need to flush the ATF” for normal service, but considering that it is a very expensive item to repair and with my modified technique it is very easy to flush (easier than doing engine oil change).
2. Here is my technique-modified from Haynes. No need to remove the battery and battery tray and no need to disconnect the hose from the cooler. Get a box wrench 24-mm (Sears). The drain plug for the ATF is on the Right side of the Transmission casing. Drain ATF, you should get approx. 3.5 liters out the first time. This is the amount you need to put back during the final top-up.
However, for the each flush cycle: a. Reinstall the drain plug finger-tight b. Add just 2 liters of ATF c. Start the engine (don’t drive as the drain plug is not tightened), shift through all gears with at least 5 seconds in each gear. d. Drain the ATF
Repeat the above steps until the ATF is clear, it usually takes 3-4 cycles or approx. 8 liters of ATf to be wasted. At the final topup, add approx. 3 liters, run the engine and check the ATF (using standard procedure as in the onwer manual as to how to check the ATF level). In my experience during the final run I added 3.5 liters. This way you only need one case of 12 liters of ATF. I think this is good preventive maintenance.
This is a little story for you do it “yourselfers” out there. I am an ex-mechanic and figured I was more than capable to offset the high maintenence costs of owning a Volvo by doing most if not all of my own work. Especially with the help of this web sight and the advice of all you great givers of Volvo knowledge.
Well, I came across a posting for flushing the automatic transmission. I thought the $89.00 dealer price was fare but, hey, I know my stuff and this posting gave me the step by step procedure, what could go wrong? I even get to put in the Mobil 1 synthetic, BONUS!!
I got my supplies together 11 quarts fluid, clear plastic hose, clamp and my daughters funnel she uses to fill her water baby, I will clean it when I’m done. Began taking off the top transmission cooler line, you know, the one on the top right of the radiator, yea, passanger side. Carfully removing the clip as explained. Attached my clear hose and ran it into a bucket, readied my new fluid and started my prized turbo black 850, S70, V70R wagon. The hose leaked spraying black fluid every where. WHAT?, OIL?? I smell some of the dark tranny fluid. Rub some in my fingers. I look closer. OH, I see a oil cooler, cool. Well, OK, “hey honey I think I am going to change your oil too”. I went and got oil and filter and finished the oil change I didn’t mean to start. Started the car oil good and went to the left side (drivers side) and chuckled as I pulled the clamp off the hose.
OK, here we go I attached the clear hose to the radiator outlet in place of the hose. Hose goes into the bucket. Tranny hose out of the way. Ready! I start the car and whatch as transmission fluid sprays up and out of the hose that I carefully moved out of the way. Quick! Turn off the car and look at the damage. More fluid sprayed all over my prized black 850, S70, V70R wagon, I am really not having fun now! OK OK, I get it. I will hook my clear hose to the line side and run it into the bucket. I started the car, held my breath, then looked. Hey, this works good pretty good. I pump the fluid out add more do it again and again and wow this is easy.
ATF flush 2
More: The clear hose I used was 1/2″ inside diam. It will attach to the transmission cooler line. I did not use a hose clamp there, it stayed on fine. I would recomend this next item to any one who reuses the hose clip: use an electric zip tie around the clip to tighten it back down after being removed and possably loosened. My dealer couldn’t find a new clip so I was forced to re-use the old one with a zip tie.
I also flushed the cooling system with newe Prestone. Pretty easy: 1.13 mm wrench for the engine drain plug (located just above the driveshaft, on the right and rear side of the engine).
2. Radiator drainplug is plastic and needs a 6-mm Allen key. No need to remove the splash guard as mentioned in Haynes Manual. No need to disconnect the radiator hose from the radiator. Flush the coolant reservoir with a graden hose.
Refill with Fresh Prestone, since some water remains in the system, and knowing that the cooling system capacity is roughly 7.2 liters, make sure you add approx. 3.5 liters of Prestone to make sure you have a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water. The rest can be filled with water.
Right front motor mount replace car tips
I recently started noticing a vibration through the steering wheel at idle, and just off idle. As I suspected, the right front (under the crank pulley, inboard of the pass. side wheel) motor mount had failed. If you haven’t done this one, you can tell if it’s failed by looking at the steel pin that rides in an oval slot. The pin should ride in the middle of the slot. If it’s on the bottom, the mount has failed and that part of the engine has metal-to-metal contact with the subframe.
After removing the right wheel, remove the screw on the plastic wheel wheel liner and fold it back. You will see the mount under the pulley. Place a short piece of 2 X 4 under the oil pan near the oil filter and jack it up just enough to take up the slack, then remove the two vertical bolts that join the mount to the engine. Jack up the engine no more than 30 mm (according to the Haynes manual to prevent the CV joint from binding) and then remove the two other bolts that join the mount to the frame.
The right one of these bolts is a bit of a PITA. I found that with my limited assortment of ratchet extensions, I had to move the engine up and down a bit to be able to fit the socket in the small space. Anyway, it took about an hour start to finish, and besides a decrease in vibration, I noticed a significant improvement in the ride of the car over bumpy roads. My conclusion is that the old mount, which had totally failed, was allowing the engine to bounce on the frame a bit. Be sure to check the other mounts for failure as well.
850 Center Console Switch fix
I just changed out my center console switches (my 2 rear window switches didn’t work for rolling the window back up). Here’s the easy way to do the work… you have to remove the console to change the window/mirror switch. Remove the coin holder / OBD cover Under it, you will find 1 of the 2 screws that holds the cigarette lighter / change holder assembly to the underside of the dash. Both screws are torx. Remove the front small console, unplugging the 2 wires to the lighter, and the light should just slide out. Located down below the holder will be 2 screws, remove them. Down inside where the 2 screws are (down in the botton) there are 2 large wiring harnesses… remove them both. 1 controls your window swith, the other one controls your heated seats and tranny switch. They should gently just pull out from their sockets. Open your center console arm rest, pop off the little plate, and you will find 2 screws there. Remove them. Remove the little plate that sits under the parking brake, it should just pop out. Set the parking brake, so the handle is as high as you can go. You’ll need it up for 2 reasons…
1) Put the car in drive, so the shifter is pulled back. 2) To keep your car from rolling away while you are working from the passenger seat. 🙂 The conole should now lift out cleanly… as 1 assembly. If you are going to remove the window control panel you need to do all of this from underneath the console, so take your console to a workbench where you have plenty of space to work.
There are 3 gold clips you need to remove from the passenger side of the console. They hold the wiring harness onto the console. A small flathead screwdriver works best. The window / mirror switch will come out from the top of the console, wiring and all.. You will then see the seat and trans switches are easy to remove. The whole removal can be done in less than 30 minutes. If you have other questions, let me know. It was a simple process. Ted
205-50-16 or 55 Tires??
Here is the Final Word on 55’s (yea right ;)… Current set and last set were (are) 55’s. They rub on full lock turns WITHOUT bumps, i.e.: parking. Enough that people who don’t know not to lock the wheel when parking (my dad, girlfriend etc) lock the wheel causing rub. The rub causes the large plastic nuts to pop off (U.S.$0.60 at the dealer) the inside plastic wheel well, causing it to sag and ultimately misalign 1-3 cm the front bumper to the front quarter panel.Is it a problem for me now that I’ve understood the problem? Nope. Everybody knows not to lock the wheel, and I avoid lock without thinking about it. I’m (maybe) sacrificing 3% turning radius. And heaven knows theres WAY more tires out there in 55 than 50.
All about improving performance. Chip’s
The TME Tech guys tell me that diffrerence in the boost levels between the US and European Market ECU’s is because of the “Gasoline Quality in the USA” For the 2.5 Litre Turbo 850, S70, V70: US .9 Bar or 11.8 PSI (Stock is 5.9 Bar) Europe 1.0 Bar. Hope this helps.
When Both O2 Sensors Go…
If there are codes for both O2 sensors, like 435 and 436, before doing anything I’d carefully look at your vacuum lines because it’s rare that both would be bad at the same time. A vacuum leak trips both O2 sensor codes. If non-turbo, remove the plastic cover over the throttle body and look at the hoses going to the vacuum T there.
If turbo, check the hose from the intake manifold, behind the PS pump and its outlet at a T just above the turbo air intake going into the large air intake tube. Those are the most common areas where I see cracked or deformed (from oil) vacuum lines. Inexperienced techs will often misdiagnose those 2 codes together for both O2 sensors.
Manual Boost Control…
If your using the stock ecu programming then I wouldn’t go anymore than 13 psi. There are some good tuners that have spent many hours tuning the fuel and ignition maps to allow more boost, like 18psi. In doing this they can maintain reasonable peak cylinder pressures and still allow more boost. If you just turn up the boost without optimizing the fuel and ignition maps then bad things will happen. I have run 18-19 psi in mine for over 10k miles with no problems.
Stuck Horn Fix
For anyone who has had their horn NOT shut off!! I have a 1994 850 and the wife one day pumped her horn, but it wouldn’t shut off. She pulled into the driveway and I simply disconnected the electricity from the horns themselves until I can investigate. The bottom line was that the horn contacts in the steering wheel are held in place by plastic! It fatigues over time, and the horn contacts then touch the horn bracket, and voila, a closed circuit and so the horn blows continuously.
After getting a quote of US$380 for a steering wheel, I figured there’s got to be a better way. So, I took some Household Goop, a $5 tube from Home Depot, and glued the plastic horn contact holders onto the underside of the horn bracket. Then, I took some O-rings that I bought from Pep Boys for $3, and placed one on top of each horn contact. Has worked wonderfully well now for over 8 weeks. Not a long trial, but assuredly those horn contacts are steadfastly in place. The job is very easy once you actually see the horn assembly.
Make sure you are comfortable & careful with removing the air bag, and know how to reset the SRS service light. It’s easy with the Haynes manual, which I would recommend. However, the Haynes manual, as anyone who has used it before will testify, has its own problems. Anyway, I can give more details to anyone who wants to know.
Comment: I fixed mine by drilling out the hole one size larger( being careful to file off the burr on the backside), pushed a small grommet (meant to be used for sheet metal) into the hole, applied a little silicone to the pin, pushed the pin into the hole. perfect- should have been made this way in the first place. — Dave