MVS Contributor clinto details how to do a Vacuum Pump Rebuild on a XC60 T6, using a vacuum pump rebuild kit.
Vacuum pump on my wife’s 2010 xc60 T6 was leaking. It had done about 66,000kms. My wife got a quote from Volvo, which was $1500 for a complete pump (they wouldn’t do a rebuild kit even though Volvo sell one) or $650 for a rebuild by an independent Swedish shop. Or $80 for a rebuild kit from the Internet. So obviously I started searching for how to’s.
Vacuum Pump Rebuild Time
Total time was about 3.5hrs. But in that time I did an oil change, installed new spark plugs, installed new wipers and treated some rust on the bolts in my battery box. So probably I could do it in 90mins next time…
Vacuum Pump Rebuild Tools
You don’t really need a lot of tools. I used the following:
- 7mm socket
- 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets and ring spanners
- couple of torx bits (I cant remember the sizes)
- ratchets and extension bars
- side cutters
- dental pick (to remove o-rings)
I didn’t remove that much. There is a series of pictures for an S60 where the mechanic removed the entire intake pipe over the top of the motor. I didn’t go that far. Basically my removal steps were as follows:
- Remove the air box cover.
- Torx bit plus a 7mm socket to remove the hose clamp. Unclip the sensor plug and cut the cable tie.
- Remove the battery and the battery box.
- 10mm for the battery connectors and the hold down on the battery
- 10mm socket to remove the 5 bolts on the bottom of the battery box.
- To remove the battery box, you need to squeeze the top sides at the back in to get them past the main cover up by the windscreen. Pull it up from the front and out.
- Remove the 3 brackets over the alternator, and top of the engine.
- Start by removing the clips holding the positive battery lead on
- Then the clip holding the power steering pipe
- Take off the top bracket with the 2 I think `0mm bolts
- Remove the other bracket on the back side of the main bracket 2 x 12mm bolts
- Remove the big bracket. 12mm and 1 14mmm bolt. Just remove the bolts, the alternator will not move.
- There is a cable tie holding a cable onto the main bracket. It’s a little difficult to get the bracket out. I just rotated it around and pulled it out the way.
- Remove the air box base.
- I removed it more to allow a bit more access to clean up the oil. You don’t really need to remove it though. But if you do, it pretty much pulls straight up, it is just held in with some clips. You then remove the intake pipe from behind the front grill.
Remove the pump
- 2 x 12mm bolts is all that is holding it on. Once you have removed the bolts, you just need to wiggle it out. A bit of oil will leak out of it so get a rag underneath.
Pulling the pump apart
- It has a bit of oil in it and it will leak out as you start tilting it around on the bench. Mine was quite dirty. I cleaned up the outside first with some turps.
- It is a little difficult to get apart, as you cannot lay it down. I put some wooden blocks either side to support it. Remove the torx bolts and the cover comes off. Remove the large o-ring. I cleaned up behind the oring with some turps as it had a build up of burnt oil behind it. Similarly on the back side of the cover. You will need to clean that up too.
- The difficult bit was the black plug on the end. You need to squeeze from both sides. Have a look at the replacement part to work it out. It would be easier with a second set of hands.
- The new one just presses in.
- The smaller o-ring fits on the backside. The dental pick helps with getting the old one off.
- Bolt it all back together and then clean up the mating faces.
To reinstall it you need to line it up and wiggle it to get it back in.
Then it’s just the reverse of the removal.
Hope it helps.