Are both axles still firmly engaged?

How about the slim possibility that it’s something like a bad engine mount that has gone metal to metal, or some sort of exhaust/body contact?

If you don’t loosen or separate the sprockets from the cams then there is no need to employ a any cam locking tools. Here is a good video on the procedure. One thing I like to do differently is to remove the plastic shield from under the crank sprocket rather than removing the damper pulley. https:/...

If you suspect a heater core leak it can be confirmed pretty easily. As was mentioned above, if you run the defroster for a length of time, it will likely start building up an oily film on the windshield and give off an antifreeze odor. However, a lack of these indicators doesn’t mean the core isn’t...

abscate wrote: ↑11 Jan 2023, 09:24 Very happy with guys in Louisiana , thanks to my friend Tim for referral

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/about-us.aspx

Thanks, abscate. Order placed.

On a P2 I thought the DIM is pinned to the ECM like the late P80 cars? A swap would require a reprogram if that’s true Some swap-ins will work, some won’t. Certain conditions must be met. As it was explained to me, first off, the year must be a match - you can’t put a 2004 DIM in a 2003 car. Howeve...

10mm as I recall.

Mr. Detail wrote: ↑10 Apr 2023, 06:08 Thank you gentlemen!
….but how do i keep from losing the nut once it is loose?

Sometimes, in this situation, I’ll hold one of those extendable magnets up against the bottom of the socket while I unscrew the last few turns. That keeps the nut attracted to the socket.

If it pulls to the left under acceleration then there’s a strong possibility that the RH control arm bushings have gotten sloppy.

Put the car in drive, hold the brake, and apply the throttle. Note the noise. Then put the car in reverse, hold the brake, and apply the throttle. Note the noise. If the noise sounds the same in both drive and reverse then I would suspect the exhaust.\ system. If the the noise is different between d...