I suggest you buy two tools before you do much work on any vehicle:
1. A magnetic retrieval tool on a flexible stick.
2. A retractable claw retrieval tool on a flexible stick.
Both will save you much frustration. They are very cheap if you find generic brands.
volvolugnut

A trick I use when dealing with difficult nut (other than magnetic socket)...get a small piece of paper towel and stuff in the socket with some part sticking out of the socket. Once inserted, the paper towel keeps the nut from dropping. I wrote a detailed DIY here... 2004 V70 - Tail Light Assembly r...

Mr. Detail wrote: ↑10 Apr 2023, 08:08 Is a "wobble" joint different than a "swivel" one?

wobble joint can only deflect a few degs, universal can flop almost 90 degs down and any nut will fall out.

Sorry, I have no idea on this unit. I would think though it is similar to the older units in operation and probably has a laser lens that needs cleaned. A replacement is probably cheap at a junkyard. I typically pay $10-20 depending if they have a sale on.

Neil.

If that won’t work a ~$150 iCarSoft reader for Volvo off Amazon will reset it. My 2.0 version of it will on P1 & P2s.

Cam seals are on the end of the cams and keep the oil in. Check your PVC for pressure as if the pressure popped the seal, it will pop the new one out , too. Adding a seal job onto a side with VVT will add 2-4 of hours labour to the job, or $200-400

Start at 2:30, Robert points right at them. They are right behind the timing belt gears on the cams.

I’ve done it many times. You can do the math to determine the viscosity change. I’ve even topped with Delvac 1300 15w40 ($14/gal at Walmart) during the summer. Not probably the best if you want to run extended drain intervals but for my 5000 miles or less I’m not concerned. I’d be more concerned dil...

And don't mix Exxon and sea water.

And the testing has been done for you.