I'm getting ready to service front and rear haldex units for the occasional 'hose skipping' symptom and I think having the driveshaft out would make life easier. Am I wrong? Greg, long answer below, short answer here. Just kidding. A lot of this I've learned in hindsight after multiple times with 3...

The problem could be the control arm bushings. Make sure you get quality replacement control arms. There are some cheaper ones out there that will last less than half as long as OE and can have more severe pulling problems when they start to fail. I replaced my front struts a couple years ago and de...

Rear FOG light button, not defog.

I’d get the entire car off the ground. If your bevel gear is good and collar sleeve/BG input splines are intact the driveshaft should not rotate freely. If you can rotate the driveshaft your front tires should also be spinning.

PMs stay in the outbox until they are picked up by the recipient

What I was trying to convey is that over the lifespan of those parts, they really don’t cost a whole lot considering their serviceable lifespan. A used BG with good splines will typically run $2-400, new CS $120-150, DEM pump/filter/oil ~$350 (USD). Spread those costs out over a reasonable represent...

For my 2004 S80 it requires both keys. With engine running and doors locked: 1st manually unlock driver door only by either lifting the fob by the window or just using the inside door handle to open the door. This leaves other 3 doors locked. 2nd shut door unlocked with key 1 in ignition with engine...

I’d start off with the trailing arm bushings and see how you like that improvement first. Replacing most of the rest back there will require an entire rear subframe removal. A word to the wise - get a couple different length metal blades for your sawzall & cut slots in the original bushings befo...

A complete rear coil, shock, and mount overhaul will add support to aging subframe, unless the bushings on subframe are falling off -- more here viewtopic.php?f=9&t=91242

Sticky dirty control switches perhaps. Remove the Faceplate and clean the controls with Electrical contact cleaner or MAF cleaner.

In my experience dealing car blower motor, since they are small device with light load, they run on "bushing" and not ball bearings.

I usually remove them and lube every 5-6 yrs/50K-60K. Easy Saturday DIY.
It is free.
I posted the tricks in this forum...