@Ocelot, you can do an okay-ish repair by doing the following, but depening on how much of the equipment you already have it may well be cheaper to find a replacement bonnet. - Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel can be applied directly to the rust spot and it will remove the rust. If you can't get that, sand as m...

Ugh those quick disconnects SUCK. Such a pain to release. I bet that orifice tube is nasty, mine was caked up with so much garbage. I guarantee someone used stop leak to try to fix the evaporator leak, but of course it won't work since it couldn't get past the orifice tube. Can someone explain to m...

UK supply of driveshafts (and outer CVs) dried up about 10 years ago, according to long term owners. Breaker-yards are barren too, and have been for almost 5 years (thank you, Scrappage Scheme...). We've been using aftermarket driveshafts for a while as a result, though mostly sourced from well-know...

It is a strange thing with Volvos but I have found the rear calipers have a habit of seizing way more than the fronts. I think it may be either because people tend to service the fronts more or the rear brakes just don't work hard enough. Either way, it sounds like the caliper is seizing and that wi...

* The vibration is typical of rear brakes grabbing as I've experienced this firsthand. Imagine someone much stronger pulling you on a rope. If your legs were strong enough you would slide on your shoes. The springs being like your legs will flex upwards and you wind up stomping your feet to stop the...

If you replaced your calipers, ever, with non-Volvo rebuilts, it is likely that the guide pins are made of cheap pot metal, also called silver cheese. These rust and then the caliper grabs and overheats. The OEM Volvo slide pins are about $15 each but won’t do this. There are several write ups on th...

I had a very similar thing a few years back. Turned out to be rear brakes so could definitely be the caliper. For me it was the pads getting stuck on the sliders and caliper walls and not releasing properly. Warped the rotors as well. Make sure you invest in a fit for purpose lube for the pins and t...

I don’t know anything about LPG and lean codes , but if you get lean codes on petrol , see if your short term fuel trims are large at idle and small at 2500-3000 rpm. That’s a great test for vacuum leaks The hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold and the tree are th places to look for leaks

That's because of LPG conversion. There is NO car in the world which doesn't get check engine light after lpg conversion...especially the engines with 5,6,8 or 12 cyl. More cylinders it have-harder the installation is and the price goes up with more cylinders. You have lpg evaporators for up to 90kw...

You may have more success with questions relating to LPG and other fuel conversions on the UK Volvo site , where there are installers, fanatics and, a dedicated forum for LPG/CNG

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=16