Hi all,
First, this is a great forum and site! Glad I found this. Brickboard is also great but wish they updated their forum software to make it easier to browse.
Anyway, I hope someone can share their tips on changing the fuel filter. I have read the Chilton and Haynes manual for 850, and the process seems rather straightforward. But there are some "conflicting" things about the 2 books - one mentioned to use a "valve stem" to close off the fuel line coming from the tank.
Regardless, I hope to hear some tips and steps on how to do the change. I have done previous DIY work on my car such as change spark plugs, flush coolant and oil. I'm just a little hesitant about the fuel filter because of the volatility of gasoline and the hazards of it leaking.
Thanks to all.
1996 850 - Fuel filter change tips
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
How To Change Your Fuel Filter: Guide, Tips, and Tricks
- Tsquared
- Posts: 519
- Joined: 17 August 2003
- Year and Model: 11 C30
- Location: Atlanta GA
- Has thanked: 1 time
The gas filter is located passenger side just forward of the rear axle. The band that holds the gas filter in place is a pinch band that has a nut welded/formed into it on the back/top side. A 12 mm bolt holds the band in place. The top of the band has a bracket that hold the return fuel line - this just pops off and the return fuel line can be reattached once the filter has been replaced. If your filter has never been replaced there is masking tape covering the pinch connections at both ends of the filter. Remove the masking tape. You need to put a pan under the old filter to catch any gas spillage - it will be minimal. Also the new filter comes with plastic caps on the ends of the new filter - you will want to use them to plug the old filter connectors so you need to take them off the new filter to have handy. Ther is a T off the inlet gas line that has a cap on it - remove the cap and press the needle in the T to relieve any pressure that is on the gas line - If it has been setting for an hour there will probably be very little if any pressure on the line. You can skip messing with the T and you will see about an ounce of fuel that will come out of the filter when you remove the hose.
To remove the connectors push the connector ring away from the filter housing. (I did the front first because I had more room). I used a paint can opener to help pry the hose away from the filter - it is shaped like a can opener but without a cutting edge - a large flat screwdriver would perform as well. It is a tight fit but once it starts to move it will come off. Once the hose is off use the plastic caps you took off the new filter to help hold the gas in the old filter. After removing both ends remove the holding band and place it on the new filter. The two lines will go back on easier than they came off, just push them onto the filters nipples. Put the 12 mm bolt back into the pinch band and reintall the return fuel line. Wipe any stray fluids and your done.
It took me 20 minutes the first time I did this. I believe I could do it in 5 now. Good Luck.
To remove the connectors push the connector ring away from the filter housing. (I did the front first because I had more room). I used a paint can opener to help pry the hose away from the filter - it is shaped like a can opener but without a cutting edge - a large flat screwdriver would perform as well. It is a tight fit but once it starts to move it will come off. Once the hose is off use the plastic caps you took off the new filter to help hold the gas in the old filter. After removing both ends remove the holding band and place it on the new filter. The two lines will go back on easier than they came off, just push them onto the filters nipples. Put the 12 mm bolt back into the pinch band and reintall the return fuel line. Wipe any stray fluids and your done.
It took me 20 minutes the first time I did this. I believe I could do it in 5 now. Good Luck.
'11 C30 T5
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
- matthew1
- Site Admin
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Nice description Tsquared. Geevs it's easier than it reads -- just get in there and your mechanical instincs should take over. Bring an old towel and like Tsquared said, something to catch any excess fuel in. There's no way to make it 100% dry operation; you'll get some fuel on your arm/hand. Wear eye protection and don't smoke and you'll do just fine
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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Geevs2
Hi T-Squared and Matthew,
Many thanks for the truly helpful tip. I hope someone else stands to benefit from this tip. Perhaps this should be posted in the main page as a how-to.
Best regards,
Geevs
Many thanks for the truly helpful tip. I hope someone else stands to benefit from this tip. Perhaps this should be posted in the main page as a how-to.
Best regards,
Geevs
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AJU
Many thanks to our very own Tsquared on another well done How To.
This one details how to add the Volvo OEM shims to silence squeaky, squealing brakes (a common problem).
brake shims fix 850 s70 v70 xc70 squealing noise
Great work Tsquared
.
brake shims fix 850 s70 v70 xc70 squealing noise
This one details how to add the Volvo OEM shims to silence squeaky, squealing brakes (a common problem).
brake shims fix 850 s70 v70 xc70 squealing noise
Great work Tsquared
brake shims fix 850 s70 v70 xc70 squealing noise
Another thing that may help is you can use the end of a box end wrench (I think a 17mm will work) to pry the hoses from the old filter nipples. It will pry on two sides of the hose fitting. I found it to work well.
2004 XC70
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
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Mike-Halewai
- Posts: 224
- Joined: 29 September 2008
- Year and Model:
- Location: Vancouver, Canada
It took me all of about 4 or 5 mins to change my very old fuel filter.
The intrigue for me was re: the 2x zapstrap that had been employed in place of what used to by the oem Fuel Filter holder.
I guess I'm off to the wrecker for another part.
Good instruction in this thread; all I need was the 17mm wrench to loosen the lines; and a knife to cut the zap strap...
I also, pulled the fuse for the fuel pump in order to de-pressurize the system... simplest job on this car so far.
The intrigue for me was re: the 2x zapstrap that had been employed in place of what used to by the oem Fuel Filter holder.
I guess I'm off to the wrecker for another part.
Good instruction in this thread; all I need was the 17mm wrench to loosen the lines; and a knife to cut the zap strap...
I also, pulled the fuse for the fuel pump in order to de-pressurize the system... simplest job on this car so far.
Mike.
94 850 Turbo Wagon.
94 850 Turbo Wagon.
The original metal strap to hold that thing in is prone to rust, especially the bolt that holds it on. It sounds like you were referring to zip ties holding it on?
2004 XC70
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
2005 S60 2.5T AWD (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Blue (gone)
1996 850 GLT Wagon in Green (gone)
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Mike-Halewai
- Posts: 224
- Joined: 29 September 2008
- Year and Model:
- Location: Vancouver, Canada
Yup ... "zip ties".. are "zap straps" where I am at. lol.turbotim2 wrote:It sounds like you were referring to zip ties holding it on?
Mike.
94 850 Turbo Wagon.
94 850 Turbo Wagon.
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