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This was a simple 1 minute job when I did it to show another member how to replace broken rods. Remove the cylinder from the handle first, then its easy to get circlip pliers in there and the whole thing falls apart. Leaving it in the handle certainly complicates things and costs far more time and e...

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Oct 22, 2020 2:57 am Spent one hour removing the right Jack point. Okay, one hour spent drinking beer after it de-installed itself

Iechyd da!

Thank you for the specified feedback! What do you mean 'holders'? Yes I think the wires add just a tidbit of tackiness, it doesn't look as clean. I don't think the LED bulbs would provide enough coverage though. This way I have a lot more coverage of the front, aisle, and back. I just mean the OE l...

Why not just replace the halogen bulbs inthe holders with LEDs? Then you get your brighter whiter light without the tacky (subjectively) strips with cables floating around everywhere. USBs are solved with a cigarette lighter adapter that almost looks OE. Rear USBs isn't a bad idea and looks like a f...

You can take the man out of England, but you can't take England out of the man.

Normal replies to this sort of issue would include the following: Use a jumper on relay 103 (fuel pump relay) - to rule out bad relay. Test fuel pressure using a gauge - to rule out bad/weak pump. Note: When my fuel pump relay failed, I had pressure at the rail but car would not stop. It transpired ...

Are those discs dimpled or drilled?

I have personally never seen one that looks good or fits properly. My suggestion, if you already have cracks and damage, would be to remove the dash pad. Then repair the cracks or damage with some filler, before flocking it. Flock (i) looks cool, (ii) isn't as good an insulator as plastic or vinyl s...

Blimey. In that case I see why frequent changes of coppers could make sense.

RC8PYP is a double platinum plug. FR7DC and RC9YC are indeed copper. This means that from factory EU and US specs were the same, so it would then be plausible that the change to platinum for NA models in the EU also made its way across the the US. I still change mine at 30k intervals, but have found...

In the EU, Volvo plugs for the turbos have been platinum since they rolled off the factory with Champion RC8PYPs. Since that time Volvo plugs for turbos have always been platinum, and the manufacturer has varied from Champion, to NGK, to Bosch, to NGK again, and now back to Bosch. Anecdotally, my ca...

UK supply of driveshafts (and outer CVs) dried up about 10 years ago, according to long term owners. Breaker-yards are barren too, and have been for almost 5 years (thank you, Scrappage Scheme...). We've been using aftermarket driveshafts for a while as a result, though mostly sourced from well-know...

£10-20 per hour for lift rental here, mechanic on hand to assist if needed. Cheaper prices normally are bay/lift only, adding in the use of tools generally sees the hourly rate double. Each shop is required to provide insurance (both car and personal), and are regularly inspected to ensure lifts, ex...

Oh, no, I understand the premise - there are an awful lot more overheads that need to be covered. As you say, best to avoid politics and I shall stop derailing the thread.

Not to discredit mechanics but that's extortionate pricing. The Irish in me would be sobbing into my stout if I had to pay that. I guess it pays to be willing to get stuck in over there, even more so considering the average salary is comparable between our two nations*. * Figures retrieved from 30 s...

£50 is a very expensive one. Sadly the one within biking distance of me happens to be very expensive. Most independents are £30-40 per hour, with smaller ones oop noorth being more like £25-30.

Always a farm-out job for me. Local independent can separate it and change boot in sub 20mins, costing me under £15 in labour. Not worth my effort or the mess for that little change.

Model year changes often occured mid-year. This wasn't to do with the countries, just happened to be when the tooling and changes were implemented in different factories. My Belgian made 850 was manufactured September 95, but is a MY96 car - because the equipment and tooling for the MY96 facelift ar...

I need some help with my American-English to British-English homework: Google claims a cheater pipe is a length of hollow pipe used to extend leverage on a wrench. I assume this is in lieu of a breaker bar? If so, where does the term "cheater" come from? What is a vise grip? Google didn't bring up a...

Scenarios line this make me wonder if an air hammer would be a good investment.

I do not currently have the part number to hand, but the gaiters for 2/7/9XX Nivomats are still available in the UK and are a perfect fit. As with the US there is no stock of the P80 gaiters, but you may find stock of the 2/7/9XX ones. I've also mentioned this previously in a related thread, but mot...

You can't orient it incorrectly, as the spring tensioning plate (the rectangular piece protruding from both) on the arm and barrel match. As for the orientation of the full assembly in the handle, I'm afraid I can't quite remember as I removed the lock cylinder almost two years ago. I'll have anothe...

Undo the circlip pictured, and the the pin (plus the flared base its attached too, will pull off from the back of the cylinder. Be careful of the spring which will probably come loose too. Pictures to follow: IMG_20201010_154756[1].jpg IMG_20201010_153949[1].jpg This can be done with the lock cylind...

Changing them is very easy, and replacement o-rings are still available. Finding replacements is much harder (in the UK at any rate, I can't speak for the US), but cleaning is a viable option.

Excuse me for posting so far after the original, but I have a similar problem. I have got the switch out of its bracket. When you say clean the contacts, do you mean the ones that connect top the wiring or do I need to take it apart further to reach contacts inside the switch itself? Typically its ...

Thats exactly it, use the gasket as yptur pattern. As you've noted, there is quite a bit of material that can be removed.

Top stuff. Easier, in my opinion, than drilling and tapping an N/A manifold. You're also guaranteed to have better airflow as its obviously going to be matched! Whilst you've got the gear out, do the runners too - theyare far from a perfect transition.

That actually makes perfect sense and explains the match on wires and heatshrink with the ABS harness repair kit. Thank you!

Many thanks. I haven't seen any evidence of alarms - the standard Guard II is still present and working. It's a similar story for stereos, running all original speakers and there are no mounting holes for any amps or additional wiring. I believe that whatever it was was a Volvo item as the heat shri...

Do you mean number 10 in Manov's image, sitting beneath the upper spring seat in the top left circle? The item pictured here? Nivomat (L) and standard (R)? If so, I have also had clunks from these loosening.

Good evening, I found this mass of wires in the main fuse box, they appear to have been cut and spliced at some point with an adhesive heatshrink. Can anyone think of any auxiliary electrics that would have been used here, or have any suggestions as to what was removed? Some are looped, some have th...

If you had fueling issues previously for a period of time, perhaps you need to rest your long term fuel trims (LTFT). I cant search right now but there is a guide on MVS covering how to do so.

Over here in the UK thats just a bog standard 7pin 12N socket. Here's the pin-out:



Here is some further reading.

I think its about time we constructed a nut and bolt spreadsheet detailing the thread pitch, grade, and full dimensions of every bolt in these cars in order to avoid paying $100 for $1s worth of steel.

New upper torque mount as mine was destroyed... I didn't even need to cut or punch the centre out as it had already detached. I just used two g-clamps to wind the new one in, none of this faffing around creating a puller tool. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50405830537_e87e19a650_b.jpg I also s...

In the UK market it was also TRW (and I'm lucky enough to be on my originals too for confirmation). I imagine the rest of the EU also received TRWs.

What's the weird badge on that Ford Explorer?

Amazing, that rust bucket would fail on just about every single rust related check present on the MOT over here. I'd be parting it out, but then that's probably due to being conditioned to detest anything crusty by very rust-intolerant MOTs. I'm so conditioned that I'd be anxious about jacking it up...

Use two G-clamps to wind it in. Much easier than faffing around with home-made puller tools. Clunks when lifting off the accelerator would match up with worn torque mounts - especially the one you're in the process of replacing. The dog-mount under the car should also be checked, as FLXC90 alluded to.

That cardboard grill cover actually exists as a Volvo part, to deal with that exact issue. Its a piece of black plastic that clips into the grill and blocks off around 66% of it, if my memory serves me correctly.

In sunny old Britain, where we rarely see temperatures below -15 F in winter, we still experience throttle body icing and so do not recommend RIP kits for people who use their cars during winter. -30 F? Wouldn't dream of it. The aftermarket kits will also experience the same issues as the original d...

Eclip 951669. You can probably make a non Volvo one fit by mashing it down a bit Many thanks. I raided my e-clip spares and found one that is holding. Unsurprisingly I have a more responsive and lighter throttle now. The state of my car is becoming mildly concerning at the moment. Whilst I've never...

I've discovered that my throttle pulley is missing its retaining clip. The only thing that prevents the pulley from coming off the body entirely is the plastic cover over the assembly.

Does anyone know what this retaining clip is, and its size? E-clip, circlip?

Interesting. The suspension diagram I was using as a reference placed the nut between the bump stop and the bottom of the spring mount. I will not be using that reference again. It's still somewhat interesting to me that the suspension appears to function as normal without this cross nut. As the top...

Good evening, What is the purpose of this cross nut? I noticed today, whilst changing the top spring mounts, that I'm missing it on both sides. The car has been like this for at the very least 45,000 miles (since I've owned it) and I haven't noticed anything untoward previously. The only thing I was...

If you have a spare wheel nut and a rotary tool then you can make a free tensioner adaptor in 5 mins. Lop the threads off and grind two opposing corners off. Use a long 19mm spanner for leverage. Job jobbed.

Its a 19mm square hole in the tensioner, if I remember correctly, so you wont get much closer than 3/4". As above, with an adaptor you cant get the clearance. Another potential option might be a crows foot spanner on top of whatever adapter one uses to fill the 19mm hole. Of course any play in that ...

3/4" torque wrench would be ideal, though I personally do not possess one.

The hoses are lower down on the block than you'd think, essentially on top of the gearbox. If you have any issues you end up losing whats in the matrix and lines (1.5L or so), plus the expansion tank and part of the block. I believe my clamps did not have sufficient clamping force to fully close the...

I think you're largely right in that failures are quite rare, or more likely due to wiring issues. As you alluded to, you can't get much simpler than a hall effect sensor. All these parts are original on my car, which just ticked over 200k miles and will be 26 in a week. I expect they're getting clo...

Personally I'd make sure you have some spare capacity. I clamped my hoses at the firewall and still, presumably through an error on my part somewhere, lost a total of 4L. The last thing you want to happen is to have it overflowing into your footwell - removing it from the foam and acoustic padding r...

Replaced the CPM today, 5 drive cycles later and I have not had any codes or studying issues yet. With a bit of luck that will be the end of it. I'll be looking out for a spare for future incidents, along with spares of the fuel pump relay, and crankshaft sensor. I will also be looking for a few oth...

As an engineer I hate spacers, they're the enemy as far as kingpin inclination goes. Back on topic, all P80s were 65.1, as dizzy confirmed.

Yes, its Bosch FR7DPP. In the UK market service intervals were 30,000 mi. This may have differed in NA, so hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will pop in.

As above, Nissens comes highly commended here in the UK (excellent for rads too).

Apologies, I assumed manual. Automatics are almost non-existent here so I made the wrong assumption.

Thanks all. I have ordered a replacement. Tomorrow I have to drive 253miles, so I have a potentially very stupid question.I do apologise if it is stupid, I don't fully understand the role of the sensor (I know it is used to ascertain when to fire sparkplugs as crankshaft rotates twice for every cams...

2.1L, I'm not certain how many units of eagle blood that is. 2.2 us quarts or so, I'd guess.

Check tie rods first, if thats okay then get an alignment. If you still have the issues after that then its time to consider subftame bushes. I wouldn't worry about them until you've rules out tie rods and alignment.

That should give you time to research the bushing reassembly, if you need to do it.

Interesting. Rechecked codes today (Im doing it after every drive), and although I had no hot start issues or any starting issues whatsoever there was a DTC314 code - which is a missing or defective CPS. I'm assuming now that in addition to a bad fuel pump relay my CPS was on its way out too. Im now...

If the core support is different then that might explain the different rad set-up. Did you manage to clarify if there was a difference in the core support?

Did you get an alignment done after changing the suspension components? Its still worth checking the inner and outer tie rods for play, too.

You don't need a press for the subframe bearings. There are some good guides on here for their removal and installation in-situ.

Noted, thanks. Its reassuring to hear that it wont have any significant impact. I've made a jumper cable from 14gauge wire and two spade connectors, so that shouldn't be a problem either.

Bump steer (which is what I think you're describing) can be caused by a number of things. Most commonly its a bad wheel alignment, or worn suspension components linked to toe-in and toe-out geometry. This is stuff like your control arms and track rod ends, as covered by Neil. Tyre size, yes and no i...

Any long term issues associated with jumping that relay? Presumably not given its being recommended, but worth asking! Keeping fpr jumpered certainly would help in the elimination of issues.

My perhaps twisted logic was that if the evap isn't working properly it will essentially be vapour locking on hot-starts. I'm happy to drop that line of investigation of its nonsense though. Is it possible for sensors to struggle under high temp scenarios? Yesterday's ambient temperatures were 27'c ...

They're normally well recommended over here, but they wouldn't be my first choice. They're often stocked by some Volvo dealers who cant get NLA items. I definitely would have preferred a Volvo branded item but they're now a classic part in the UK so need ordering from Sweden with a 2-3 week lead tim...

It was a ProfessionalPartsSweden one. The only one I could find in the UK at the time.

Sometimes I love local motor factors. £5 for Bosch air filters, and £4 for FRAM charcoal cabin filters. Im a bit annoyed I didnt check a day sooner, as FRAM air filters were being sold off for £0.97.

If they ship to the UK I don't mind being an intermediary. Failing that I know for a fact Amazon has heaps of brackets exactly like that for sale, as I've considered that approach previously myself. You should also be able to find premade aftermarket wiring harnesses. Plenty of those floating around...

Not entirely convinced my issues are solved as today the crank no start reared its ugly head again. This time it appeared to be a hot-start issues - I am not sure if this is linked to previous scenario or not. I had spark, again, I had fuel at the rail (though still haven't tested pressure at the ra...

Volvospeed had a post comparing all three manifolds; stock T5, Japanifold, and R manifolds. I'm struggling to find it at the minute but it presented flow data for all of them. If I remember correctly, the Japanifold came out on top in a controversial result. The differences between all of them isn't...

Image should be attached now. u-brace.jpg I do believe you're right in saying that the addition of the u-brace and a rear brace probably would be equivalent to the full package. I think SIPS in general does enough to reduce flex longitudinally down the sides of the car so I'm not convined the triang...

Im a huge rivnut fan, incredibly useful items. If you're looking for further areas to use them in, to justify purchasing the kit, using them in combination with button head screws is a far far superior option for securing mudguards and arch liners. It also allows for easy access in the future for ma...

As above, joins the rear mounts on the front subframe to the centre brace under exhaust mid-section. I'm hoping that it will cut down on scuttle flex and reduce twisting in cornering. I'm not sure if it would impact NVH at all (my car is a daily for 15k mi a year), though realistically I can't see i...

I'm currently negotiating for a U-brace to fit on my 855. I've been eyeing up the Ultra Racing brace for some time, and one day it clicked that it's bracing the same thing as the U-brace would. Given the U-brace is a low demand item it's very cheap (I'm expecting to pay around £20-30), so it makes m...

Thanks both, will order some of both to further deter Murphy, the sod. Oetiker clamps it is.

Anyone know what the ID is for the vac line between the lower of the two inlet mani ports and the one way valve (horribly vague I know)? I've just noticed it's rather deteriorated and I'm fresh out of tube. I also know that the second I take it off it will disintegrate and I need the car running for...

The British language may say rubbers for rubber bands or for waterproof boots. They may also call waterproof boots wellies (short for wellingtons, which I think was a brand name. Apologies to our British cousins if I got any of this wrong. volvolugnut My good man, rubbers over here most certainly d...

FLXC90 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 06, 2020 2:33 pm And keep in mind Americans, he's (probably!) not a pyro, what he calls a torch we call a flashlight!

How else am I supposed to deal with witches in the valleys of Wales?

Also a flashlight, as the name so clearly states, is a light that flashes...!

From a quick Google it seems your relay is number 19, not 99. Whilst both are wiper relays, its 99 you need as only it is the programmable one.

The part number of the 99 relay I put in my car has part number 357955531.

You basically can’t check a crank or cam position sensor with a resistance measurement to confirm operation. If it shows open, or “ infinite resistance “ it is dead but a wide range of resistances can show on working parts. I followed the Volvo workshop testing methods, and agree that resistance ca...

I bridged pins 15 and 87 on the relay, and the car started and ran perfectly for ten minutes and throughout the rev range. I ordered the aforementioned £13 relay and swapped it in on arrival. After a thorough 90 minute drive I had zero issues and the car runs well throughout the rev range and varyin...

EDC: pens, exttra charging cables, 3 dash cams, tire pressure gauge, baby wipes for whatever, hand sanitizer, 3 medkits, 3 window knocker/belt cutter combos, bottles of water, granola bars, disposable rubber gloves, pepper spray, deodorant, pocket knives, chains, reflective vests, oil rag, extra ra...

Word play (ish) for prophylactics, I assume. Which I also assume has a different or secondary meaning in the US...?

Have you got a condensed version, perhaps just a quick list? I honestly ran out of interest about 4 mins in due to the chaotic and ill-prepared presentation. I sincerely mean no offense, different people prefer different types of videos. I personally dont get along with the informal vlog style; thou...

Random thought popped into my head; given you lot are US based and still have a plethora of carb driven vehicles on your roads, I imagine it would be fairly easy to find a metal carb link rod that would fit?

You'll have brakes, just no functioning ABS (which is your current issue anyway!). Not sure how useful this test would be though, as without the module in place there is nothing to test, and whilst it will throw an abs code it might not be the one causing your problem.

Fair enough, no disputing that. Sadly that leaves me fresh out of ideas.

Theres always a way to make something work. In this case you'd just need to create a wiring harness.

How did you diagnose pump failure? Did you rule out pump relay issues by bridging pins 15 and 87 on the relay?

Just found additional figure in service manual for 850s showing "head with locknut" down. See section titled "THROTTLE LINK ROD" in the following link:

http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/850- ... -and-850r/

Maybe I’m just putting this on upside down? I’ll check if the “ head with lock nut” is up it down Volvo web store shows head up. Its down on my '96 850. No record in service history of anything being done that would have required removal. Service manual claims they are sided and labelled - will att...

Open the hood, look down between the core support and the front bumper, you'll see three brackets holding the crash bar onto the frame. It bolts onto the two outer ones of those. Hella Comet 500s were the original items here in the UK and EU, I'm not sure if thats the same as a Hella 500 under a dif...

Sounds like one of two things to me. A bad ABS module - the repair of which is both quick and easy; orthe insulation on the wires going from the ABS module to the ABS pump have degrade and are shorting out. This will trigger your ABS without triggering a light. Check the wiring from under the black ...

In the UK we use motorbike fork gaitors if we cant find OE. That being said, whilst P80 ones are discontinued, 7/9X0 ones are still available here and do fit.

The metal piece is the crash bar. The fibreglass part is called also called slam panel in other parts of the world.

I cant comment on the core support query, though maybe you can get some measurements from someone with a 94-97 one.

I recently found mine to be popped off, and noticed that it had been popped off when opening the throttle. For whatever reason the coil the cable wraps around had drifted towards the US driver side. This meant, due to the angle the bracket sits at, that as the throttle opened and the rod was moved u...

Thank you, I've added that to the check list.

I bundled my (un)happy helper into the boot today to listen for the pump. It was reported that it was running from Pos II all the way through until it stumbled and died. I then bridged the relay and the car fired and ran as normal for 3 minutes before I shut it off; I am not a fan of leaving cars id...

Definitely not a BTCC car - wrong sponsors and wrong wheels. That car actually looks more like the Volvo 850 Super Touring from the Swedish Touring Car Championship - in which the 850 was more successful than in the BTCC. The STCC 850 still holds the record of most consecutive STCC victories with dr...

Antenna ring had clean contacts, but I 'wiped' them anyway and replugged it several times. I also had a look at the MAF, which had some dirty contacts. I cleaned those up with emery paper and contact cleaner. I tried starting the car again and as before it would start, stumble and fail roughly one i...

With a sitting car it's certainly possible to seize open. Easy enough to check, in the ssme manner one would normally check for seized calipers. Remove the caliper and pads, stick a block of wood in the middle (smaller than the gap between the pistons, obviously!) and press the brakes.

My (un)happy helper returned, so I was able to test spark. I have spark at the coil (the loom for which also tests fine with multimeter), at the distributor, and at the leads for cyl 1 & 2. I did not pull plugs or check more than those cylinders as both plugs and leads have less than 2000 mi on them...

Previously it varied from between say 1-3s. Prior to the no-start it was not taking any longer than normal to start. I don't have an assistant currently to turn the car over whilst I check for spark, but its certainly something I will check conclusively when they are available. I should perhaps inve...

My 850 T5 let me down yesterday, with a crank but no start scenario. Oddly, it does cough every 20s or so of cranking, and tries to run for 0.5-1s. I have both fuel and air, and my crank speed is normal so starter is good. Haven't checked spark yet, but its the only one left. I suppose lawnmower syn...

I got mildly disappointed today, as for the first time in 3 years my 850 let me down... Crank but no start scenario, troubleshooting begins tomorrow (bank holiday, luckily!). Currently I suspect CPM as I have both fuel and air, and my crank speed is normal so starter is good. Haven't checked spark y...

You just need the bulb failure relay from the V70 (or same model year!) you took the hatch from. It shouldn't require any further modifying, and you shouldn't have to make any modifications to the wiring. Robert has a video on this, actually: click . Your exact question gets asked in the comments a ...

850 and C/S/V70 rear liners are different (surprisingly), with the 850 having different mounting locations and being slightly taller. They both have the same width though, so you're probably spot on in saying some clearancing would be required.

Apologies, I seemingly forgot how to read. Everything I said above needs to be reversed. Non-nivomat springs will have too high a spring rate, and be 50mm too short. The spring cup part is still correct, at least. You don't need to remove the springs to change the Nivomats or to install a convention...

No. They're too long, the spring rate is way too low, and you need different spring cups.

Top stuff, thanks. That would suggest that the mounts for the arb are the same and after many years I can finally fit one to my 850!

The general consensus on the C70 delta link is to use it on an 850/S/V70, depending on your wheel setup, you will likely need to roll the fenders. I'm interested to see where the extra length comes from, and if it's anything beyond just slightly longer trailing arms. Finding out if the arb mounts a...

smacknab wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 6:22 am For sure, I'll go take a look at it some point today and let you know.

That is excellent, thank you very much.

May I be incredibly cheeky? If I recall correctly you've recently put a C70 delta link into your car. I've been looking for a rear arb for years now, and I've finally been offered one - from a C70. Given your recent findings regarding track width, I now have no idea if this part would be compatible ...

Tried to drop you a pm regarding those cupholders, abscate, but it's been in my outbox for two days now. Got it last night, just replied. Daughter comes back sep 10, might be tight to order to her Oh apologies, I thought that because it was still in the outbox there was a problem in delivery. Didn'...

Tried to drop you a pm regarding those cupholders, abscate, but it's been in my outbox for two days now.

Desirable parts from T5Rs (at least here in the UK) are the seats (these are the Porsche collab ones), the wood trim on the dash and centre console, the wheels, and the ECU. Bumpers in good condition are also worth grabbing.

30664459 $75 at FCP Cookeh if you find some at the breakers please harvest. I would love a couple of these but not at $75 As my family would say.... strewth!! I'll see what I can find. Not much stock or access to breakers at the minute due to lockdown restrictions, but I'll check out the usual susp...

Perfectly possible both ways. Both of the two bolts you need to access at the bottom of the car are readily accessible from the ground.

If you're talking about the cargo net divider that rolls up out of the back seats, it isnt a pet net. It's designed to stop luggage from entering passenger cabin in the event of a crash. As for the actual dog guard, there are two versions. One is removable and would have been the original option for...

Yes, a click would suggest it's operating normally. A good upgrade, whilst you're in there, is to fit a .99 relay from the VW group. This will give you fully controllable intermittent wipers where you can set the wipe delay from anywhere between 1-30 seconds. They're normally £9 or so from eBay, or ...

The relay is rather tricky to access. Its under the drivers side (UK) kick panel, over toward far right and level with the dash. The wiper relay is no.9 in thie following image, and is a real stretch. http://www.volvotips.com/service-manual/volvo-850/electrical-component-locator/Image_001.png You ca...

I didn't even know that P2 cup holder was an option. Seems standard over here, never not seen it!

Oh, and congratulations Abscate!

850oldschool wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 11:04 am I Are P80 subframes "completely interchangeable"?

No, actually. There was a change in engine mount location at some point. I can't recall exact years or chassis numbers. I believe it was during the latter S/V/C years.

Maybe a bent wheel that you have not noticed rubbing slightly? Do you have dial indicator to check run out on the inside rim. Sorry, I do not know how to translate dial indicator and run out to British English. volvolugnut No need for translation, those terms are interchangeable. I do find it inter...

You have a very elaborate way of saying “ no”, Rick. I find that admirable. Are you accepting new students at this time? That's an interesting take on Rick's reply. From that post I understood that it should be possible, but there are some parts you need to check compatibility of first. This could ...

That's excellent, but I was merely answering your question: green is an improved version of the original. If your black one works then that's good news and means you have a spare improved one just incase your black one succumbs to the issues that plague the majority of them. In the UK I cant persona...

Its an improved cap, designed to amend the issues with the caps developing cracks and ultimately leaking.

Mines been on the car for 3+ years, if you're also seeking personal experiences.

I got run off the road at 75mph by a Q3 driver who thinks the use of mirrors is optional. In trying to avoid a collision (I was level with their drivers door), I drifted too far to the right and clipped the kerb (curb) of the central reservation (median). Blew one tyre outright, ripped a 7cm chunk f...

We can patch them, yes. Not sure its much of an easy patch. It's on the weld itself, on the topside of the exhaust, and most of the weld bead is badly deteriorated. Finding good metal may be interesting.

I found a hole in the weld on my backbox. Sadly not repairable as the metal around it is iffy at best. That will fail the MOT, so I've been hunting for a replacement. 850 ones are very hard to find, but I've found one from a C70. Does anyone know if the C70 section fits the 850? Better still, is the...

abscate wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 4:00 am Refreshingly honest ad, are those Ariana wheels?

Steelies and some cheapy black covers.

I'm a big fan of this type of advert, honest and entertaining. Surprisingly high asking price though, at least the for UK. About 50% over-priced vs the UK market for such condition.

Your fan speed issues are down to the resistor, they're a cheap part but fairly inconvenient to access. That being said, if you've got part of the dash apart already then it certainly should be accessible. Coolant leak from the heater matrix isn't a particularly noticeable leak - it's not something ...

Improvement in running with MAF disconnected does typically mean the MAF is faulty. It is easy to access and clean, so worth doing. I would also recommend checking your vacuum lines as this can cause similar problems - especially as you've recently had them unplugged. For MAF cleaning, use a dedicat...

They typically rub on front and rear arch liners. C70 blue lock stops help to alleviate this, but with 235 width they may still rub. You'll also add 1.6m to your turning circle by using the C70 lock stops.

Beg pardon, tired eyes! I actually agree about the sentiment of these cars both riding and handling better loaded, as its certainly been my experience - both with stock springs and uprated ones. Their webpage offers precious little information to be honest, failing even to mention the most basic of ...

Can you elaborate on the iPD HD springs for those of us outside the US? Assuming HD is heavy duty, one would assume they're rated for higher weights, and hence would have higher spring rates? You say they improve handling without affecting ride. The former is believable mechanically due to the highe...

abscate wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 6:03 pm You will need a new throttle body gasket, too

Volvo 9135990, circa £4 in the UK. Presumably similarly cheap in the US.

If its a Guard II alarm set-up, quite a lot. Relay, the horn, the wiring harness to the horn, and the red blinky thing (technical term) that lives on the dash (with its wiring to of into the top of the alarm. Of course you'll also need a fob. If you want the immobilizer too then thats another relay ...

CPS?

That's the beggar, many thanks! One down, one to go.

No, sir, that bolt is one of the two bolts the secure the battery tray. The bolt Im trying to find is smaller (definitely smaller than M12, but cant tell if M10 or M8 as my bolts head has rusted away), and is the only other bolt in the battery tray. It sits further to the US passenger side of the en...

Hello, I'm looking for some information on two different bolts. I have the part number for one, but cannot find it for the other. I need to replace these parts, so would very much appreciate knowing the thread size and pitch. None of the heads of the bolts on my car are matching, and the bolts thems...

Sure are, was one of the first things I did for mine. Not entirely interchangeable though, you wont be able to swap the door lock cylinders over.

The UK forums are finally back up. The answer is identical to that posted by jimmy, but Jimmy's explanation is actually superior.

There are two threads on an UK Volvo forum that might have the answer, sadly the forum is currently down. When it comes back online I'll pop back, hopefully with an answer. Until then, hopefully someone else can solve it for you.

I’ve forgotten the Colonial translation of “slam panel” Cookeh.... I do apologise, I tried my best to use the correct Americanisms. P/N 1372541 for the 850s, though oddly this brings up nothing on volvopartswebstore. It is the fibreglass panel at the front of the car that the hood latches into, the...

Oh, thats my bad! I didn't realise the US didn't get chipped keys until 1999, I made the mistake of presuming it was rolled out at the same time worldwide. Free breakfast and dinner with all new purchases, delicious.

It ends up being quite a job with a lot of pieces needed: Fenders, bumper, crash bar, arch liner, headlights, headlight wipers + motors, indicators, bonnet, grill, and slam panel.

$81 is significantly less than Volvo charge. The part is still available in the UK/EU but they charge £280 for it.

I've had keys cut by local locksmiths, and all have worked just fine. Problems occur if you have an immobiliser, as the key then has to be coded to that. This is a much more specialist (and expensive) process, so whilst I can find a locksmith on almost every other corner I've yet to find someone tha...

The nozzles for all P80 cars (850, S/V/C70) and all P2 cars (S60, V70, C30) will fit.

Yes, manual. Yes I do have cruise, and that does of course link into the whole pedal assembly, but the wheel in question doesn't seem to be directly attached to anything cruise related.

Here's the blighter:

Good morning, Whilst changing out my rear wiper relay I stumbled across an adjustment wheel at the top of the throttle pedal linkage. I was just wondering if anyone knows what this does, and how to adjust it properly? I am curious as to whether or not this might either change the height of the pedal...

Pretty common in the UK, with spacers. Still rubs on full lock though, even with C70 lock-stops.

There are lots of posts regarding failsafes for getting hoods open with failures. Have a search, you'll find a good number of options. Hood-pins can be installed on any vehicle though, and the slam panel would be perfect for a mounting location. Or one could easily fab a small bracket from the littl...

Yes, they either just twist and pull out, or squeeze and pullout (there are two types if I recall correctly). Its likely a T-piece failure rather a filter if you're seeing leaks under the insulation. The filter for the front is located just infront of the pumps, it looks like a smaller old-school fu...

Coke can would be my guess, without actually measuring one.

Drilled out the plastic? Don't suppose you have a reference for that method? I feel like mine need to be sorted out, though Im tempted to get polybush inserts and go the lazy route!

I believe it points up, with the bugger bulge (if you notice the bolt hole is not central, and one aide has a bigger bulge as a result) facing the firewall.

As you presumably have a LHD drive car, this should translate to arrow facing up on the drivers side.

I spent 3 years with a 90min commute during my PhD, but sadly our petrol was more like £1.20/L at the time!

I might have that on my parts 1998. I’ll be in UK in SEP so I could post it locally I’ll also be in the Black Country visiting family if that’s not too far That would be absolutely smashing. The black country is fairly close, relative to American distances - a mere hour and a half away. Postage wil...

Finally found it on volvopartswebstore. Seemingly NLA, and none of my local dealers can track one down. Has anyone found an alternative for this part? It seems pretty crucial to the long-term functioning of the rear wiper, short of frequent rebuilds. Part number is 6817884, and corresponds to #9 on ...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. It really is difficult to point out a single probable culprit as any of them could cause the issue. Neil has covered it rather well.

An older thread, I know, but does anyone have the part number for the vinyl sleeve that has a habit of cracking? Mine is in three pieces and is the cause of my identical failure.

The aforementioned PartsForVolvo items (and even cheaper aftermarket items sourced through eBay) are used extensively here in the UK. I've never heard a bad word about them, as long as you keep them lubricated. As with any polybush they will squeak if dry. All four of the local Volvo specialist gara...

I've had similar experiences when there has been a vacuum leak. I would suggest checking the condition of all the vacuum lines, and replacing any that appear perished.

If we had MOT over here about 80% of our cars would fail. Something to think about if you come over and drive over here. The Swedish test is even tougher From having seen the state of a lot of cars driving around from my visits there I can safely say I'm not even remotely surprised. Im not sure how...

...Eventually it will result in an MOT failure in the UK as the rust appears to be localised around the rear seat mount. Why would MOT test require arch liners to be removed? It's funny...because sills(rocker panels) are covered with plastic side skirts.Do they remove them too to inspect sills cond...

Exactly, yes - on both points.

Volvo Composites in the UK makes lipkits and will even do full R moulds for you. He has plenty experience and reviews shipping to NA too. He's also just about to bring out BTCC insipred front bumpers, which look tremendous. Lip extensions and R moulds are priced at £110 + shipping, whilst the BTCC i...

As a reference how quickly this can become an issue, this next photo was taken around 11 months ago, and we had an especially mild winter this year with no grit being applied.

There is a hidden rust spot on these P80s that I've only just recently been made aware of, thanks to this post on a UK forum - link . It seems this affects a significant number of P80s, but is largerly un-noticed due to its location. Eventually it will result in an MOT failure in the UK as the rust ...

Over the last few days I've been sorting out some rust on my arches, and today I 'detailed' the engine bay. I think I'll stick a thread up on the rust issue, as I've not found any info on this forum pointing to it.

Americans call a towbar a hitch (or perhaps more precisely they call the towbar neck a hitch). Towbars, as Im sure you already know, can either be fixed or detachable. If detachable it means you can just slide it out. In reality, all 'hitches' are detachable, you just need to unbolt them from the br...

@Ocelot, you can do an okay-ish repair by doing the following, but depening on how much of the equipment you already have it may well be cheaper to find a replacement bonnet. - Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel can be applied directly to the rust spot and it will remove the rust. If you can't get that, sand as m...

My 850 has four screws at the bottom carpeted section, and one more at the side (front facing) for the front door cars. There is also a screw that needs removing in the speakers. It is normally the bottom left corner of the 4 screws holding the speakers in. To access the speaker screws you'll need t...

Try classicswede in Anglesey, has a website under the same name: https://www.classicswede.co.uk/ . Give him a call tomorrow, his website isn't always the most up to date and doesn't list everything he carries.

You can get away with undoing the rear of the subframe and lowering it slightly. You only need a few extra mm to get sufficient clearance.

If you managed control arms then you'll find tie-rod ends to be very simple. Afterall, once the car is jacked up its only two bolts per side! A tip, if I may: make sure both sides of the car are jacked up. If not there will be a lot of tension on the ARB, making it harder to fit the new parts. It is...

Empty

I know I replied to this last night... That hole is normal and as you guessed, there seal on the cam cover has failed, for whatever reason. There is another THREAD on this forum discussing the same issue. I read a long thread on it and searched on some others a while back, but can't remember where ...

That's a very intresting question. I have no idea what the answer is, but I'm intrigued - hopefully someone else will be able to clarify!

XIX is also the opening song from Slipknot's 5th studio album "The Gray Chapter", but Slipknot use zildjian's range of cymbals (Paiste's back when XIX was released actually) so it doesn't fit as perfectly as one would hope.

Thank you, Neil. It seems you are correct that there are three amplifier options (4 if you count a measly 4x16W option that I've never seen or heard of!). It appears the 850s had the 4x40W option which is positioned infront of the heater core, whilst for the V70s it was upgraded to a 4x50W option th...

Good evening, I was hoping someone could clarify the differences between the different SC- stereos available for the P80s? I have heard of the Premium Sound System options (SC801 and 805), and I'm aware some models (SC900 and 901) came with amplifiers. My question is how does the sound quality vary ...

850R extensions available from here. Well recommended company here in the UK and I know he's had quite a few international (including the USA) customers.

One my T5 I stuffed butyl tape down between the glass and dash with an ice pop stick and stopped 99% of squeaks , cosmetically it’s about a 6/10. It would look better if I put another piece over it to dress it up. On Evita , a 1999 S70 , Abby and I took the dash out, about 75 minutes, and then regl...

Crows foot is the way forward.

Isn't the Lexus' plate the hex code for its colour? 370H55V is as*hole mirrored/flipped. Other two are just perfect.

O's and 0s, that sort of thing - at least that's how it is done here. That or turning 11 into an H, 4 into an A, etc using a numberplate bolt.

Always been jealous of the ability to have basically whatever you want.

MeyleHD was my choice two years (and some 30k miles) ago, they're still in excellent condition.

MeyleHD, MOOG and Lemforder are the trusted options for suspension components from my own research/experience.

P.S. Biannual is twice a year, biennially is every two years. English is daft.

Either. Cars get assigned a plate at the point of sale, but you then have the option to add a personalised numberplate instead. They still have to conform to correct plate standard for the year of the car, so for example I could not swap to the newer format, any custom plate for my car would have to...

An update to this regarding sources of the button; the Saab 900/9000 uses identical seatbelt recievers. There is no UK-based supplier for the Volvo part, but saabits.com stocks replacement buttons for the 900/9000 priced at £11 - here . As far as I'm aware iPD still stocks these in NA, but hopefully...

Need to get my hands on some epoxy actually, thanks for reminding me. Most of my trim pieces have small cracks that need some reinforcement. Might also try your technique in other areas where access is a bit more restricted - the thermosetting plastic option is great when you have space to properly ...

I managed to address a couple more small items in the recent sun we've had, the first of which was to redye the trim. I last applied the trim dye on March 2019 so it lasted well over a year. I've now had three applications out of that tube of Wurth Dye-Plast PT, which cost £23. Three years of dye fo...

In the UK, EU, and US you can get webbing replacements from shops that do custom work. You send off your seatbelt (the whole assembly) and they'll replace webbing with colour and stitching of your choice before returning it. I'd be shocked if a simar service wasn't available in Oceania, as you have ...

Always forget about the relative scarcity of manuals over there. Opposite scenario over here, autos are far rarer (but still significantly less desirable!). Manual 99-00 S/V70 is between £500-1000 here, to provide some sort of reference point for my comments. I suppose the market is more different t...

Not really, it doesn't tell you anything beyond that it is an uncommon fault. Whether or not it is worth fixing depends on the cost of the junkyard panel, welding it in (plus other fabrication or repair needed), plus the resulting bodywork afterwards. It may well be cheaper to get a donor car for th...

Do play with fader and the very limited equalizer options - you'll be surprised as how much of a difference that makes. I find that in the halfway position or when aimed forward the soundstage is compressed and bass response is muted. Moving the fader toward the rear opened this sound stage up signi...

Rick hit the nail on the head, here's another thread for cross-reference:

viewtopic.php?t=74111

Doesn't matter if plugged or open to be honest.

I didn't exist, my parents had only just started dating.

The above, plus potential trapped air in core.

Made a DIY tensioner tool at 0p cost, used it to release drive belt so I could remove power steering pump and reservoir. That was necessary to remove the lower thermostat housing as the T40s had seized within it. One stud came out when cooked, the other had to be drilled. What a ballache, but after ...

In the EU Bosch was OE for these parts in petrols. Beru was OE for the diesels.

I had to replace my guide, and now I have issues with the window being very slow when moving in that guide. Any ideas? As for what I've done today, given I've still not been able to remove the studs from my lower thermostat housing, I had to pull my power steering pump and reservoir to get access to...

Went to replace the thermostat. Had to drill the heads off both bolts, then use a crowbar to get the housings separated. After all that, the studs are completely stuck to boot. Couldn't back it out with the double-nut method, couldn't get it out with molegrips... Have now ordered some stud extracto...

Precisely. Dampers add mass and elasticity, reducing vibration - stopping the noise from transmitting along the panel. This won't stop noise passing through or being reflected. Absorbers prevent transmission of airborne sound through viscous and thermal losses as the wave travels through a medium. E...

Huge case of diminishing returns when you get above 25% panel coverage. Those products typically only work for vibrational dampening (naturally), so will reduce structural-borne noise but won't do anything for wind or tyre noise. If you're looking to reduce airborne noise (like wind and tyre mention...

Mildly concerned about the proximity of the CTS and plastic power steering pump, but could give it a stab. Worth trying whilst waiting for the extractors to arrive!

Went to replace the thermostat. Had to drill the heads off both bolts, then use a crowbar to get the housings separated. After all that, the studs are completely stuck to boot. Couldn't back it out with the double-nut method, couldn't get it out with molegrips... Have now ordered some stud extractor...

If you cant lie the seat flat I cant really see how it can be done. The lever is held in place by the trim pieces, in turn fastened with little push rivets that face the C-pillar and are inaccessible with the seat up. If the seat is down then just push the centres out of the push rivets and remove t...

In the UK, decidedly rare.

Presume you've tried to put extensions on to the ramps? The extensions hook onto one of the lower rungs of the ramp and roughly double the length. The weight of the front of the car on the extensions keeps the ramp in place and stops them from slipping as you drive onto them.

I installed a new radio in my S70. It's so nice being able to now watch a movie while driving! :roll: Super cool, I want to do this with a back up cam, how did you source the head unit? I have some dream where I can find a used one for like $50 You can get brand new octacore powered ones for £50. B...

Jetex are known in the UK for having some serious fit issues. Excellent quality and sound, though.

I'd always recommend custom to ensure perfect fit. But if you're looking for off the shelf then Ferrita is an excellent brand and known to fit very well (they are a Swedish tuning brand, often recommended by builders here in the UK and SE). Ferrita actually costs more than custom stainless, here in ...

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:12 pm Why does GERMANY get all the nice things ?

The grass is always greener when your plot is the US

Chuck W wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 6:03 am We also dyed all of the upper interior pieces to the dark grey.

What dye did you use? I've been tempted to do similar!

The Columba's are the only 16" 850 wheel that can clear 302mm - if you grind the caliper shoulders down a bit. You'd have to remove shoulders and shave a couple of mm off the entire top surface to make the Persus fit. As I'm sure you've seen they're quite tight on the standard 280mm ones.

Really interesting how far they moved the motor back - it's even with the strut towers. And they must have changed the front suspension geometry, as the top of the strut is removed. Maybe a lower lighter coilover type. Standard MacPherson setup with coilovers, with remote adjustment. Look at the sc...

Fabricate new mounts, or cut the old mounts off. Those are your options. Given you dont want to mutilate the current speakers, you will need to make some new ones up. MDF works fine for this, just make sure you isolate it from the metal of the door skin to reduce vibration and resonances.

Can also replace the plastic frame that's attached to the boot. It just clips in at the base of the centre console; lift the console and depress the clips. You can then remove the staples and the plastic frame will be released. Glue and staple in a new plastic frame, and you're done.

I don't know when the P80 C70 was phased out in the US, but in the UK it was 2005. I'll assume 2006 in the US as the P2 car has such different dimensions and design that is obvious nothing would bolt across. All exterior components on the P80 C70s from 98-2005 are fully interchangeable.

15"s will fit fine, should be plenty available - Ariannes are possibly the most common example. There is a huge list of P80 wheel options you could easily find with a forum search, that will give you more than 4 names to look for.

As above, N in this case means the first letter of the cars registration, which govens the year of registration (1995). It doesn't permanently deactivate it, don't know why that is in there. Had to do mine that way almost 2 years ago, immobiliser still works just fine. The fuse order is important, a...

I'm with misha on this one, you can test the ignition barrel/switch by jiggling the keys slightly with engine running and seeing if that temporarily fixes the problem.

No start with flashing indicators is indicative of the immobiliser being triggered. If you have a key fob then unlocking the car via that should fix the immobiliser issues. If you do not, or that does not work, try the following : http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-8587.html?s=6d7620566...

Have you noticed any vibrations or increase in NVH since fitting the polybush upper mount? Mine is starting to go, and tempted to polybush it.

misha wrote: ↑Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:50 am

CIK7 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:23 pmBut I think it started in 1999+

Nope!
850 and s,v,c,xc70 have different sips airbags...at least on EU market cars.

Nope. EU market cars had mechanically triggered ones until late-97 MYs, then they became electronically triggered. 92-97 are all exchangeable without loss of SIPS or SRS errors.

Hello,

Does anyone know if seat base foams from vehicles without heated seats are the same as heated seat optioned cars? i.e. Do they have the holes for the thermostat and the fixings for the heater pads?

Cheers,
Cookeh

P2 seats fit fine in 850s. You need to change the rails and seatbelt receiver over (that's all I can say about it, everytime I ask one of the multiple people who have done it in the UK that's the reply I get.... "just change the rails, will be obvious when you see the seats side by side") . You will...

mecheng wrote: ↑Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:11 pm Has anyone tried NGK?

My car had been run on NGK PFR6Bs for at least 80,000 mi of its life. Ran perfectly.

On a much more tame note, I took it for its yearly MOT. A pass, with an advisory for a 1mm hole in the weld between backbox and tailpipe. No hard feelings, original exhaust on 194k. Must be replaced, so currently hunting a new mid-section. Bosul is OE for my car, but the UK arm went bust years ago. ...

I'd wager shipping to NZ from Europe is no cheaper than from the US.

I think they come at 0.75mm ().030" for Yemen) and people do report they run better at 0.70mm On my turbo car, I gap new plugs at 0.70mm and run them 25k, then replace. I have found regapping needed at 15000 miles The three sets I can account for were gapped to 0.7mm, if we're talking about the FR7...

Bosch copper FR7DC Bosch platinum FR7DPP Do they need to be re-gapped? I know that Volvo ones in a set of 5 are properly gapped. The FR7DPPs I bought were gapped correctly, as were three friends sets. The Volvo ones I bought were not (and had two broken plugs in the packet, so might be down to hand...

Sorry to drag this up again, but my coolant system is over pressurising on occasion so I suspect my thermostat needs replacing. I have an MY96 850 T5, but I am struggling to ascertain if I need the 87'C or 90'C variant. The general consensus in this thread suggests 87'C, but other forums with the sa...

Is there a similar link for us in the UK/EU who wish to support the site somehow? Cant be the only one who's partner spends half their waking lives browsing Amazon.

Seat skins and bases are currently available from Elwood Industries, and there have been UK suppliers for wings and bumpers 9Volvo Composites on Facebook) both have been available for years. Volvo Composites primarily do lips/splitters for the R bumpers, but I believe they're working on full bumpers...

I have driven many 240 series Volvos. They can turn like no others. When I got the P2 V70, I got frustrated trying to maneuver. I assume, but have no personal experience, that the P80 Volvos will act more like the P2. My W210 series (2001 E320) Mercedes turns sharper than the V70 but not as sharp a...

P80's have some of the smallest turning circles around. 10.2m kerb to kerb is better than most hatchbacks manage, and similar class cars like A4s is 11.6m and A6s are around 12.1m. To further illustrate this, the Merc C class is 10.8m, E class is 11.2m, BMW 3 series is 11.4m, BMW 5 series is in exce...

June wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:02 pm I don't drive a P80 anymore, but would like to see the results of the poll. Is there a way to see without voting? Thanks, June

Click 'View results', just beneath the 'Submit vote' button.

Thanks guys, I thought it was meant to be orange but always best to check with you gurus.

Have the injectors cleaned. Look for this service in your city or town. Use Google search to see the shops’ star ratings. Certainly worth looking into, seems to range from £15 per injector to £50 per injector - quite the price range. Out of interest, does anyone happen to know what colour injectors...

Yeah... I'm only slightly paranoid about the state of my injectors and what that fuel has done to my internals. Only slightly. The car came with really comprehensive history from a well regarded Volvo specialist so I'm really hoping it's been done at least once or twice in its life and I'm just bein...

Welcome!

I changed my fuel filter today, at 194k mi. I'm hoping it had been done at some point in the past, even if I can't find any evidence in the service history. It was pretty nasty, as was the fuel that came out of it!

For those interested, wire harness repair kits are still available from Volvo - P/N 9442019, which comprises two crimps, two 9mm ID 3:1 adhesive lined heatshrink, one piece of approx 18mm ID 3:1 adhesive lined heatshrink and the cable harness itself (with approx 1.8m or 6ft of cable and a new connec...