Arfsnarfy wrote:If your still out there Blur

Hey, I actually did mine a few weeks ago and I ended up with a EGR code in the end, i think it was a 241. I also didn't put back the dipstick correctly, or the gasket is broken so it's leaking more now than before.

Good info though, I ran into the same problems.

One thing I've been doing for the past week was this.

After I park and turn off my car, I open the hood and open the oil cap for a few seconds, whatever excess pressure which was in the system is now gone, and magically no oil leaks out after that.

I've already replaced all the vac. hoses so I ...

Over time the gasket gets hard and brittle, it just fails to seal correctly after that.

The small hose which connects near the turbo inlet is a vaccum. It helps to pull the vapor from the large one which carries fumes from the PCV system. The electical connection keeps the area warm so the vapor doesn't condense.

I would guess the larger hose is suspect, probably something wrong with ...

The entire axles are $70 at NAPA on sale right now, $60 at Pep Boys - takes very little time to replace.

Good luck- just did mine. I also just did the lower ball joints, TR ends, and sway bar end links.

FYI - I went to Pep Boys about 3 weeks ago looking for the $60 axles, but they only had $99 ...

It seems like this has gotten alot of views but no replies.

I'm really only looking to see if this is something I can do myself or if it should be left to a real garage.

Does anyone know if I must remove the subframe from the car to change the bushings?
Do new bushings need to be "pressed" in with ...

I need to replace the ones in my 94 wagon, anyone done this before and have tips or steps?

I just finished the struts, axles, control arms, and brakes. The front still doesn't seem as solid as it should be. Ideally I want to replace all the bushings in the car, I know the front engine mount is bad ...