Volvo Forum + help for owners

On both shields.

You have no jumpers on J1, the end of bus is not terminated, lots of signal reflections.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/indust ... made-easy/

The Arduino code has a CAN-bus reset routine, which brings all devices back to live. You may want to add progModeOff(); as a last line in setup() function and remove everything from the loop() function.

Is it everything it prints? You're missing CAN setup messages and CEM part number readout.

Depends on who you are. For Volvo, VDASH and alike folks it's a loose-loose situation when prospective customer can figure the PIN out on his own Otherwise I don't see any drawbacks of being able to keep your old good car on the road for a bit longer and for a bit cheaper.

What do you mean by "resetting"? Setting it to 0?

Nice! ;) Zener diode is for safety. As said elsewhere, I was rebuilding my blown engine. It is up and running now, but I need to pass a long overdue yearly inspection, for which the car should have no codes erased for last 100 or 200 miles (erasing codes zeroes emissions readiness). I'll try it in c...

Read the codes with DiCE/VIDA.

I have Kenwood 2DIN in place of HU-650 and it didn't break anything (besides steering wheel controls no longer worked before I've soldered/programmed my own adapter).

You probably need to look at what's inside your DEM. It often lets water in.

Blacklab467 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 05, 2021 11:10 am Rear seats, but you have to take a whole bunch of interior stuff out to get to the seat bases as I remember.

At least you won't see any amateur welds and cut your fingers with sharp edges like you do with Toyota seats =)