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Check/replace the voltage regulator as well.

You need to send all modules into programming mode, on both CAN-buses. I don't shut slow-speed bus yet, but it will be necessary with the CEM mounted in the car, not laying on the desk.

It goes from 0 to 999999, spreading bits among 3 trailing bytes of pin code as needed.

Ah, good, Volvo life is much easier for your then

No, DEM (Haldex). It has a direct link to BCM, when DEM takes the link down the BCM starts to "misbehave" and produce erratic codes.

I have a photo somewhere with a sub-millimeter SMD resistor in my hand: this what water corrosion ate inside the DEM, so it was not working properly.

Can you read the codes with VIDA and post the picture here? I've had a dying DEM that caused all sort of semi-random glitches on CAN network. Want to compare what you have with what I had.

So, is it good now or still the same problem?

I'll be happy to assist anybody who is willing to go over this work and write the doc... I'm not good at writing the docs. This is an Arduino IDE terminal window. Arduino is connected to my computer via USB cable and spits messages that are displayed on a monitor. Brute forcing is going over all com...

ATE is who makes them.

You can pull the sensor from junk yard car. Or open your own and try to fix it.

https://www.drive2.com/l/4898993/

It was tough, but the Arduino cracks it under 5 minutes (can take longer, up to like 13-15 minutes, depends on last 3 bytes). I still asses reliability, but in a few runs it had the pin cracked correctly every time.

All hail math!

Do you have more data freezes for ECM-6806? With every sensor replaced. So basically the TCM asks ECM to reduce torque for the longevity of the shift. ECM does it by reducing fuel, boost and throttle. For some reason ECM thinks it has no control over air flow and has to compensate for too much air b...

Was it happening during gear shift?

Glad to hear you finally had it sorted out.

Lemforder with anything not 1 in the end of its part number is not made in Europe.

Tyco on ebay are made inChina. You may have a better luck (longer lifespan) with TE relay. TE acquired Tyco.

So the PIN is located at address 0xFFE000. Flash starts at address 0xFB0000, so when you get the dump the PIN is at offset 0x4E000 in the file. The PIN byte sequence in dump is not linear. For example, this is PIN from my dump: offset __ B3 B1 B5 B0 | B2 B4 XX XX | 0004E000| 53 38 03 21 │ 18 02 FF F...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:07 pm PIN Cracker! ... You got the algorithm to calculate the PIN from the BIN file?

The software to get PIN from BIN was mentioned on previous page. What I'm trying to do now is PIN-over-OBD.

The serial pins on the chip are TTL logic, not RS-232 logic or USB logic. That you need is a USB to TTL converter not a USB to RS232 converter. RS232 is what old timers think of as serial. I had my CEM reloaded via old PL2302 USB-to-RS232 adapter that I've got for like $1 ages ago :) It has got a r...

PEM? A fuel pump controller? They fail more regularly than CEM because Volvo in its eternal wisdom put it under the chassis, open to all road moisture, salt and grime. There's TSB to relocate PEM into trunk. Good news is it is easily replaceable, no software reload required. Two big CEM relays are T...

Short answer is: "No".

It's gauge is for negative pressure, wastegate needs positive.

Otherwise it's a very nice little brakes bleeder, I have one

Gauge for the wastegate adjustment? A/C gauges are for hundreds of PSI, you need like 5.

xHeart wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:21 am Do I check for vacuum at MAP sensor riding on the hose to ETM? Probe for opening and closing?

Unfortunately you can only reliably test it by swapping with a known good one and driving through the pattern which was causing problems previously.

xHeart wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:37 pm Westgate holds vacuum.

The last things to check are the wastegate adjustment (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/adjus ... wastegate/) and whether MAP sensor is faulty/lying. If everything is fine, it all points to the ETM, I think.

xHeart wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:06 pm Found the green line between CBV and intake manifold, like you show in pix. Tested, and CBV holds vacuum.

What about the wastegate? Can you do the same vacuum test?

Maybe your engine vacuum system is different, but in my 2.5T the CBV is connected to inlet manifold (after throttle) and TCV is connected to turbo's cold air outlet (before throttle). Here I hold the other end of CBV hose that attaches to the manifold (not present in the engine bay :wink: ). https:/...

Old TCV is going back. The yellow tube coming off of westgate holds vacuum. Red from CBV does not - I can also blow air into it. Red as here? https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63924 CBV is green, it is attached to inlet manifold. If you really found that the air/vacuum leaks ...

xHeart wrote: ↑Sun Sep 27, 2020 6:54 pm Yes!

Try to swap it back?

Also did you do a vacuum test for membranes in wastegate and in CBV? When they tear the pressure coming from turbo becomes erratic, not what ECM expects.

Do you have your old TCV?

Right now ebay has a couple of cheap Renesas E8 programmers. They price is about twice over Arduino board that still needs a software to be written (and it won't be a Windows one if I write it). I still will write the software because I need to unbrick my CEM, though.

ECM-262A alone would be a hole in intake or bad MAF. Not sure if you still have an old original MAF or got a replacement. Sometimes people get a wrong Bosch MAF that works OK at idle, but has a lot of divergence with the correct one under the load. ECM-6806 is suspicious. Did you touch vacuum TCV ho...

Yeah, it does not read flash. Also, Renesas FDT programmer can read and erase flash, but can't write it back (timeouts). So my donor CEM is bricked. But I have a dump and will write my own programmer. The protocol is trivial.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YKHhejLOZ4s/UM8cceYyFTI/AAAAAAAAL0E/qldF5Y9XaSI/s1600/goodnewseveryone.jpg As a Linux kernel engineer I was overthinking the problem. Not all software problems require a rocket science approach. Sigh... With a kind help from Eastern Europe I've got a CEM dump where ID was...

Intake holes can be seen in fuel trims. Small ones will drive LTFT (long term) up, large holes will drive STFT and cause idling/driveability problems. ECM relies on front H2OS for this loop to work. STFT/LTFT can be read with any OBD-II scanner, DiCE/VIDA setup is not necessary. If you see fuel trim...

My 220k miles engine problems ended up in a burnt exhaust valve

It takes under 30 minutes when you know what you're doing.

Also I didn't use a snap ring tool, my hands are too large... What I've used is two pick tools.

Engine feels good, good compression. I can access that stuff with the tranny in the car? Thanks for the help. Feld Yes. Read the instructions and look for ideas how to hold it in place for snap ring installation in photos: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5538/107960-automatic-transmission-b4-servo-...

AF23/33-5 Technician's guide. I got it about 3 years ago at https://members.atra.com/TMG-AF23, which is 404 now.

It is awesome! Possibly, some GM dealerships still have it.

First thing to check if you have any problems with the engine. Transmission tunes itself to the engine's torque characteristics, so when it's even slightly off, the quality of shifts deteriorates quickly. 2-3 jolt is typical. There's nothing in B4 servo piston that compensates for the band's wear. Y...

It is difficult to screw up anything during oil cooler installation. Transmission has a pressure relief valve inside that limits a fluid pressure that is diverted to the cooler. So the flow inside the cooler and hoses has a relatively low pressure.

Center speaker worth it, either via 8xx route or aftermarket. I have Kenwood DDX head unit + Focal ICU/ISS speakers/tweeters in doors and Volvo blue label center speaker + DIY amp driving it - very pleased, on par with or better than Harman Kardon in wife's XC60. Center speaker really makes a differ...

In Eastern Europe they do a reinforced input shaft that sits tight on the collar sleeve. Of course shipping the remanufactured unit to US/CA would rob your bank account. As an alternative: get a used AG with the healthy teeth and replace the collar sleeve every 100k km as a countermeasure. Use a fai...

You need a complete redo of the wiring plus car's configuration change.

Second one is better (the design is more effective). You can get a cheaper oil cooler, like Hayden 677.

Any HU for 15+ years old Volvo is dirt cheap these days. Ebay prices are sometimes lower than I'd pay for the recycling of my old units.

Read the code w/ DiCE/VIDA - the car may tell what's wrong. Check the catalytic converter (knock on it with something more or less heavy - shouldn't be rattling). Check the spark plugs, should be uniformly colored. Ignition coils are good for about 200-250k km, then they start to fail providing a go...

AW55 shits best with OE ATF (1161540). You can try adding Lubegard HFM, at risk of glazing the friction plates (don't go over than couple of oz). Also removing B4 piston washer marked 2 have helped to a few folks with delayed 2-3 engagement. I did that mod about a year ago, no drawbacks yet. https:/...

My 02 V70 was doing that. 05 XC70 - not so much, but I like soft, underinflated, offroadish tires. With ~4 degree of caster I see why it could be doing that.

xHeart wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 7:45 am Unless is an experiment in acoustic, I found it to be a clever arrangement of a wind instrument next to strings!

Oh yes, the DP sounds very good! I sometimes crank down the audio and listen to 5 cylinders singing through that 3" pipe =)

Plan for the following maintenance step: body plastic cladding removal and corrosion inspection :( https://a.d-cd.net/PwAAAgOkh-A-960.jpg This is my (donor) chassis, MY05, 265k miles. I've got it less than 3 years ago. A lot of rust in the rear wheel archs, on the inside. Had to trim the worst spot....

Turbo can crack, too. I replaced my old turbo with a new stock Volvo, got one for $599. Downpipe was rusty and cracked, replaced with Snabb 3" DP. Very pleased with it. https://a.d-cd.net/agAAAgJx0uA-960.jpg New Jetex catback had holes, I didn't have a welder back then, so sold it to a Volvo fellow ...

Straight edge, visible gaps: https://i-a.d-cd.net/_AAAAgHPbeA-960.jpg Exhaust leak: https://a.d-cd.net/94AAAgBx0uA-960.jpg Soot: https://a.d-cd.net/REAAAgBx0uA-960.jpg Cracked gasket: https://a.d-cd.net/14AAAgBx0uA-960.jpg Cracks in downpipe: https://a.d-cd.net/FQAAAgLdCuA-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net...

Exhaust manifold warps and gets the leaks at 1st and 5th cylinders. Also 4 cylinder gasket typically cracks for some reason.

This is almost assured an exhaust leak. Check the exhaust manifold gaskets and the flex section of downpipe.

Exhaust leak?

DIM needs a repair. Google "Volvo DIM repair service", there are plenty of cheap'ish options on ebay. Or there's XeMoDeX that can take care of your wallet.

Orange triangle can be anything from service reminder to stored codes.

It's not hard to remove them. A bit harder to put them in place at the correct angles, but still doable.

You have to remove needles.

90% of weird glitches in eco-friendly car electronics come from tin pest. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_pest

Search for "volvo dim repair" on ebay, or send to XeMoDex ($$$).

VIDA has CAN-bus query in its SQL database for the oil level sensor for P2. Some cars might have it.

We are in 2020 and we should be thankful that our old cars have a dipstick, so we can check the oil level every time the gas tank is filled, as instructed in owner's manual ;) What I can really complain about is a coolant temperature gauge that keeps sitting at center even when expansion tank is boi...

Remove the serpentine belt and check if the noise is gone.

Junk as in "consumer-grade handheld device has ergonomic and reliability issues when installed in a car". Garmin was way better, but it burned out in the middle of nowhere, with the smoke filling the cabin. I mistakenly named this model "nuvi 65LMT" as TomTom, because old TomToms (like GO730) where ...

This is what I have: https://a.d-cd.net/e6ccd2ds-960.jpg Head unit: Kenwood DDX6705s Navigation: Garmin nuvi 65LMT in original RTI module Display left to Kenwood: https://github.com/vtl/volvo-ddd https://youtu.be/IGYbGWCGaEE Under driver's seat: two Arduinos, one drives the display, works with CAN-b...

Yeah, saw that. My latency detection threshold is about 170 ns.

So it looks like the BUSY line in M32C is controlled from timer interrupt handler. The delay between last bit sent and BUSY lifted is 50 us with a very small jitter. The delay after ID sequence is fully sent is 500 us (well, 480 to 490 us). Going through all the permutations does not change anything...

This is still fast, given the CAN-bus itself is not very fast.

So, you are finding the ID over CAN withing a few seconds? Means, the range is very narrow. Good to know, thanks!

I use "303 rubber seal protectant" on all rubber pieces 2-3 times a year. Easy to apply and the rubber does not crack that easy anymore.

You can break the clips by pulling the trim away, install new clips and see how to maneuver the trim to install it back. Pay attention to the rubber piece on the trim, it is usually dried out and is extremely easy to crack.

I would also by extra clips, just in case...

Yellow clip 30678009 - 3x per side
White clip 9190981 - 1x per side

What about vibrations? IPD subframe bushing poly inserts were terrible in that respect.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:25 pm If that where the case it would not go away after the engine warmed up.

Propeller shaft gets pretty heated by exhaust in front.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:39 pm

beentrill wrote: ↑Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:09 pm It quiets down a lot after warming up.

Exhaust manifold heats and expands sealing the leak.
Exhaust manifold gasket or a loose Exhaust manifold bolt.

The noise is speed-sensitive, not RPM. Something is loose in the drivetrain AFTER transmission.

Something is loose.

FCP -> your car -> Suspension -> Control Arms and Bushings?

06 uses LEDs in DIM. It might be a problem with the LED driver, or with the LED itself.

Tin pest is also not unlikely. Earlier P2s had this problem en masse.

Harbor Freight 12-ton bottle jack press was $100 or so, and sure thing can press the bushing out and in :) I did 3 sets of LCAs, both flat from XC70 and curved from V70. For curved I didn't use any adapters, traction provided by wise grip was enough. Next time I would get a new LCA, but Volvo origin...

MY2008 is P3 for V/XC70. S60 P2 was sold up until 2009.

MY starts in June IIRC, so last P2 wagons were produced in May 2007.

The button has a resistor matrix that programs its function. I've had a rear headrests folding button, which I don't have, resoldered as auxiliary lights button. I'd open the button and see what's inside. Maybe it was flooded with Cola or something on that matter. Sometimes CCM rejects to learn the ...

Can you recreate rattling sound by just revving engine slowly?

I see now why people still use wood logs in 2020.

It really feels like something is off in the strut, thanks to a soundproofed firewall. I've had a similar noise in V70, which turned out to be a damaged strut. So I was fooled.

Know what you mean. Sometimes the mind is not in the mood to troubleshoot so it's just muscle memory to through parts at it :lol: . Sometimes your beard is not grey and long enough =) I still have that noise, and, looking at wife's XC60 with an intake VVT hub failed at 40k miles, I think "my" noise...

Glad to know there was no difference. Perhaps the Germans are overseeing production rather than having a manufacturer in Turkey put their product in Sachs boxes. What made you change out 1.5 year old German Sachs's? Throwing new parts into unidentified harmonic vibration =) I'm still keeping the "o...

MoVolvos wrote: ↑Sun Jul 05, 2020 9:01 pmDo you have a different set on your car?

Right now I have Turkey on.

While moving manufacturing out of Europe is generally disappointing, I didn't see anything wrong with the struts.

I didn't see any difference between 1.5 y.o. German Volvo and new Turkish Volvo struts.

I do it all the time - measuring that distance with an outer caliper and putting it back. If you want to be a perfectionist: search Trackace on ebay, it is well worth it. I didn't visit any alignment shops in a few years.

Conti belts also like to walk on the pulleys. Had two of these. Replaced with Volvo belt and all is good.

Good news and bad news. Good news is I'm able to talk to CEM reliably at 57600 or 115200 bauds. Bad news there's no ID code match jitter :( The code measures the jitter in base freq. clocks, at 240 MHz it can detect variation in time for lifting the BUSY line as low as 4-5 us. However, collecting en...

Ok, it works... Tons of problem, starting with CYT1076 level shifter that switches at 100 KHz, but Renesas wants more. Somehow they agreed at 200 KHz, but I may need to redo the shifter. Renesas is 5v, ESP32 is 3.3. Also finding the right SPI mode was a bit challenging, especially with the previous ...

Had to split up the E8 and do a basic sanity check of my wiring. Ground pin I used looked suspicious, so had to RTFM :-D It turns out all ground pins have to be connected, "my" ground pin was indeed ground, but only used for connectivity check, not for signal reference. Wired the rest, and voila: "V...

The guy is from Poland, be merciful he speaks any English

My old CEM is not responding even to Renesas E8...

He measures delay after each byte sent, not sequence.

Delay exists only if there were no mismatched bytes sent yet. Each byte in ID has to be scanned potentially in the full range, 0 to 255. Up to 256 *7 scans per ID. Most probably, it would need many more scans for entropy, because I run Renesas at full speed, the delay/jitter will be real small. ESP3...

I'm not sure I follow you. With a good signal-to-noise ratio (i.e. you can detect the BUSY anomaly right on spot) you need to do only up to 256 * 7 passes.

Jitter for a next matched byte. 256 * 7 with a good SNR. More rounds to accumulate entropy with a bad SNR, but still not years, days or even hours.

You can compress the spring in place and unbolt the ball joint. But really, follow the instructions from VIDA: measure the distance between rear of the strut and front of the knuckle with outer caliper and return it to the same position after repair. No alignment is needed afterwards. 99% of time ev...

Yes, and if the key is not all 0s or 1s the chip is locked and you can't make any progress until you know the key. Brute force: 16^14 +1 = 17,057,594,037,927,937 possibilities. How long would it take a cracker to try one, check the status then move on to the next one? Few seconds. I've mentioned a ...

Yes, and if the key is not all 0s or 1s the chip is locked and you can't make any progress until you know the key.

In the video they read unsecured/unlocked flash. To read the locked flash you need to know ID.

That programmer costs arm and a leg. My setup is $0 investment (everything was taken from parts bin)

It gets the pin number needed to make changes in the CEM. Like software reloads, cloning ... ect. It says: "Read Processor Renesas M32C Flash file. Browse file and get CEM PIN security CODE. Enjoy GUSS" As I said before, you can't do the first line without knowing PIN up front. At least, as per Ren...

What are you talking about, guys? Everything cracked at least 8 years ago. We work through OBD with L-shaped CEMs around 8 years. And Data transfer service is not so expensive. There is sens to buy equipment and start to learn how to transfer software if you are going to work with this constantly I...

It has been done. There is a program out that will calculate the CEM pin from the bin file. The link below is a program said to calculate the CEM pin from a 2005 - 2009 Volvo CEM bin file. I have not tried it because I never bought a programmer to to extract the bin file. A good source tells me a O...

I'm sorry for kicking an old thread... VIDA Online (for those of us in Northern America) works fine with a Chinese forged DiCE. Every operation in official VIDA is expensive, of course. 2005+ (speaking about P2) has an L-shaped CEM that runs on Renesas M32C. This chip has a built-in flash that is re...

Expiration date is a plain text in SQL database, you can set it to whatever date you want.

Check the rear now. Thrust angle is important on AWD vehicle.

These guys are probably cheaper than dealer: https://d5t5.com/article/volvo-change-configuration

P2 - Platform 2 configuration
...
* On-board computer - SW modification only
...

Rear subframe bushings are also responsible for misalignment under the load. Most important are the two bushings for the toe arm (21) and the big front bushing for the stay/trailing arm (8): https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/3ae93312018674514a44f52bb86a508c/85f057e0d9e0668900a6d237c206249...

Yeah, this is a common misunderstanding, for some reason people think that all the fluid is diverted to the heat exchanger, where it can be dumped and refilled with a fresh fluid without mixing old and new fluids. In real life, some part of dirty fluid never leaves the transmission through its life....

About 14 quarts is to do a full flush, via sump + return line (Gibbons). Sump drain is about 3.3 qt. You can do 3 drain&fills with 10 quarts, which is about as good as a much more messy return line. IMO return line is not necessary, because only a small fraction of ATF goes through heat exchanger, e...

VIDA Online 3 days access is $75 + taxes. Software for modules is in $35-80 range. I used it a couple of times. My "community edition" VIDA 2014D runs on a Linux laptop inside KVM virtual machine running Windows 7 Home edition. VIDA Online is a P.O.S. in terms of software quality. It bricked my wife...

Convert front to regular, rear to Nivomats. XC70 on a regular suspension is not a very good driver car. Nivomats are 1/2 of 4C price, and you need only rears.

The cilinder head should be okay then and only the manifold needs resurfacing? From what I read this is not a small job removing the manifold. Yes, only manifold. You can also just put a new set of gaskets and studs+nuts, they will buy you for some time to source a donor manifold and resurface it. ...

99 of those people have that plastic part disintegrated from years of heat.

My DP had cracks in steel section after flex:



This was around 230k miles.

Manifold is warped. Ports for 1 and 5 cylinder are bolted to the block with 1 stud/nut only, typically they warp over time and start to leak: https://a.d-cd.net/94AAAgBx0uA-960.jpg Straight edge on the manifold: https://i-a.d-cd.net/_AAAAgHPbeA-960.jpg Also for some reason 4th cylinder develops crac...

Can be a failing torque converter.

New pickup tube only matters if you are cornering very hard. Otherwise, old metal tube will live forever.

It is also possible to TIG weld the cracked pan, that can be cheaper.

Software update resets all adaptations. Drive it a bit more, the problem may resurface as TCM learns how to shift "better"...

Delayed shifts to and from third gear is usually a mechanical problem.

Old starter may create a lot of interference in crankshaft position sensor. ECU does not see CPS -> does not know when to start firing.

No. Both compressors are/were original. But the clutch is similar.

I'm very curious what is different about your 02 V70 from mine. I've got an 02 V70 2.4T and I LITERALLY just did the cable tie trick on mine yesterday. No place for bread clips/zip ties. Mine was like that: https://dyw03owr7vs3n.cloudfront.net/public/assets/products/155239/product/36001066-1.jpg?14...

3 part numbers were recalled. I had my 3 tons checked, they are not.

For most (all?) of replaceable parts there's a known OE substitute, like Sachs for struts, Aisin for water pump, ATE for brake pads, etc.

Owning Toyota now and looking at Toyota parts prices, Volvo parts are not more expensive than Toyota's. May be even cheaper.

Software reload is not needed if you match P/N (or get another one that has software for a similar CAN network configuration). Getting same P/N is easier

Used DEM for my model year is around 100 USD on Ebay.

An unofficial solution involves closing up gap by putting in bread clips or zip ties to force the clutch plate to bend a little and close up the gap. read through this thread to get idea of that fix https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31203 That worked for my car for a whil...

Nope, you can leave A/C system pressured. Remove engine fan, protect radiator with a cardboard, unbolt and remove PS pump, alternator and the compressor. Shift compressor backwards. You'll have enough space to remove the clutch. https://a.d-cd.net/2be9385s-960.jpg I usually unbolt PS pump's high-pre...

When it cuts off, see if it A/C compressor's magnetic clutch engages. It naturally wears and starts to disengage on its own. If that happens you can remove it and take out one of shims you found there (aka A/C reshimming). Another reason is overcharged system (too much refrigerant). Get it recharged...

I would advise sourcing a working DEM with the same part number, splitting it up, cleaning PCB with alcohol and resealing it. Make sure you add sealant around connectors as well (but avoiding 3 small holes between them - in my pic I put sealant over one hole). Sealant needs to be high-temp, I've use...

I had similar/same symptoms last summer. It was DEM. Here's the broken part: https://a.d-cd.net/eQAAAgKXaOA-960.jpg Hand is not empty =) Oxidation: https://a.d-cd.net/5QAAAgKXaOA-960.jpg One resistor in the top right corner looked suspicious: https://a.d-cd.net/GQAAAgKXaOA-960.jpg Had it desoldered ...

2007 with 216k that burns oil...pass. I recently had B5454T2 w/ 220k on the odo fully disassembled and measured for wear. The only thing that was apparently dead and causing problems is exhaust valve steam seals. I think with the proper oil and coolant changes the engine can make it to 350-400k mil...

Does it have turbo, AWD?

I had a shudder after adding additive that increases friction. Cured (almost) by adding Lubegard HFM. I would add 1 oz of HFM and drive a couple of days before deciding if it needs another oz. The trick is you have to stop when it shifts almost perfectly: the next oz may start glazing the plates, so...

I'll let you know, Pete, if any other envy-greens will make it as far as DIY kit with PCB, maybe even already soldered. Soldering everything together is what kills me. ACK for prototype, NAK for production, even in small batches.

Sent PM.

Totally worth it. For $250 you can get a bolt-on Volvo High Performance kit from ebay, with all the speakers/twitters, amp and wire harness. Or get an amp/harness alone and install your own set of speakers.

To vtl, is the collar sleeve the splines part that mates the transmission and angle gear? Is it possible to inspect it without disassembling parts? Also is it going to worsen or become dangerous if ignored? I saw some instructions on angle gear collar replacement: http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showth...

It has a visible play, t-belt slipped to outer edge, vibration sound was located and confirmed with stethoscope, and I still remember these symptoms on a 12 y.o. V70 that had a bad VVT hub. Same vibration sound, I even found my old video to confirm that. In XC70 I had all the sensors replaced recent...

Check your collar sleeve, it may be almost stripped. Clunk on acceleration after coasting is one of signs.

Also check all CV joints for play: axles, propeller shaft...

And that was a big deterrent for me too - the cost of the new hubs. I guess at almost 300k miles the cost has spread itself out alright. Wife's FORD XC60 developed a wobble and vibration in intake hub at ~40k miles :-\ How awful is it? Less than 2 months out of warranty. Mine are still good at 220k...

xHeart wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 3:07 pm Front bolt as the one on knuckle, vtl?

Front bolt as the one on subframe, rear bolt on knuckle.

That one:

Saw it off yourself, OD 20 mm, ID 14 mm: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3K-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-OD-20mm-x-ID14mm-16mm-17mm-18mm-19mm-Helicopter-tubing-x-1M/323860238162 You can probably align the subframe by guiding the visual marks that the subframe bushings have left on the chassis. My subframe is shifted ...

The rear of the car is sitting on jack-stand. I'm imaging that removing "stay" will lower the control arm, thus, relatively not perfectly, align the mounting point to the shock's donut. Once the shock is mounted, I'll place a bottle-jack under the knuckle and raise the assembly so the "stay" to ali...

VIDA calls this thing "a stay". I can't judge if that is a correct Swedish-English translation.

BTW, jack needs to be positioned along the car, not perpendicular. Handle towards engine.

I remove the front stay and strut installation requires very little scissoring, or just pushing on the wheel hub with your leg/weight. Never had to ratchet the arms. Stay can be installed back very easily by jacking up the hub until the holes align. Also IPD-style rear toe rods are must have for goo...

You need all of: VIDA Online active subscription, new (empty) key, bar code sticker from the packet with the key. The immobilizer chip is programmed once, after that it can't be reprogrammed.

Ouch, good to know, I have a pair of these 6 tons. Thanks!

https://usermanual.wiki/Document/2005V7 ... 27583/view Page 8, item 20/16.

Most important is toe. When you unbolt the struts you need to preserve mostly toe. For toe you need Trackace.

I also have the FasTrax 9100, but it is not very useful for our camber range. You can set camber to 0 or slightly negative with a carpenters level and be fine.

I think Volvo has a logic view of internal network for design/simulation where modules are addressed by labels, not by numeric IDs. When the design is finalized, the design software enumerates the modules and the variables/toggles in these modules and assign them numeric IDs. Adding another toggle t...

Ah, yes. Sold out

What's the baby Russian lift kit?

Rear Lesjofors for regular shocks do sag down quickly. Genuine Volvo does that too.

Pull the rear seat's side cushion.

I've had N/A 02 V70, it was awesome! B5244S engine is indestructible, with the proper oil changes it will run beyond 0.5M miles with only valve stem seals replaced.

Reading vacuum at oil filler may be not very accurate because of moving camshaft lobe that creates a lot of disturbance. See in video how the gloves is soaked in, but the central part is raising under the boost. It is moved by the air pressure waves. https://youtu.be/gSnSLVw9mPg I also drilled a wid...

Add extra transmission cooler + Magnefine filter to return line, replace ATF with original 1161640, you need two 4l jugs.

With Mobil and tired valve body the shifts will be more harsh.

Good choice, a new genuine cap will last another 15 years

REM can be fixed (new shunt or relay).

Seat can be fixed, too. But first read the codes with DiCE/VIDA. You may have a problem in the electronic module, not the motor itself.

The leak test starts when the tank is at 75% or so. You will eventually get the code.

I hardly recall I've used Gates on my V70. Maybe. Perhaps.

Interior is trashed, so sad :( The car otherwise looks nice. Engine crapped out does not matter much, it is far harder to find a good looking chassis and interior these days than anything else. This is mine, about 2 years ago: https://a.d-cd.net/87f5085s-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/5gd085s-960.jpg It...

My hand is not small and I have no memories left about any difficulties replacing this spring in 02 V70 a few years ago.

xHeart wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:56 am The s-belt is Contitech 6DK1841 from FCP.

Volvo genuine belt is only $7 more.

No, I've tried that particular Aisin fluid, it's the worst from all the ATFs I've tried (Mobil 3309, Toyota T-IV, Idemitsu Type-TLS, Valvoline MaxLife, Amsoil Synthetic ATF). Volvo original ATF is produced probably by Idemitsu, but it differs significantly from Idemitsu aftermarket fluid. I've had 3...

1161540 is $12.18 at Tasca, why bother with "compatible"?

I have measured compression ring clearance of 0.9 mm in the lowest position and 0.95 mm in the highest, on an engine with 350 kkm. There's a lot of blow-by gases flowing to crankcase through these gaps. Should be 0.2 mm on a new/rebuilt engine. Do a glove test under boost (transmission in Drive, leg...

EVAP diagnostic pump?

No need to retension.

Compressor runs PAG oil with green dye, if memory does not lie.

My local car wash sprinkles rain repellent all over the car, it has effect similar to Rain-X. I forgot when I treated my windshields with Rain-X last time. But agree: Rain-X is a cool stuff!

Picture looks fisheyed, no?

Threaded insert, or leave it alone: 3 bolts will be enough.

You have an impact wrench, you have no such worries anymore. I usually put a belt first and then torque the crank nut.

Once I broke my DIY 1/8" mild steel cam lock tool and thus applied the full force required to torque the camshaft bolt onto valves and piston - nothing bad happened, besides -$140 for the forged steel lock tool :) Nothing to worry about at all if your cam/crank setup moved or even piston touched the...

Valves/piston contact still can be made, but I don't think you can bend valve that easy.

darrylrobert wrote: ↑Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:08 am the belt is not genuine volvo

All my Conti belts did that (swaying left-right on sprockets), I've had 3 or 4 of them.

12000 miles that's pretty crazy, even with a good synthetic, I wouldn't stretch it that much unless driving 90% highway in summer time and the engine is in tip top condition Driving highway in summer time actually generates a lot of heat in this engine. I mean, typical 80 MPH at 90+ degrees weather...

Additionally every three years or 60.000 kms / 37.000 miles, you should:

Replace the engine Air filter cleaner (ACL) and clean the engine air filter housing.

Every 3 years?

Every one year or 20.000 kms / 12.000 miles, you should:

– Replace the engine oil and oil filter

Oh yeah. Volvo recommends Castrol, too!

Yes, 1161540 (1l jug) and 1161640 (4l jug) is what was originally inside our transmissions.

The closest aftermarket fluids I had in my transmission were Idemitsu Type-TLS and Toyota T-IV, but not quite a full quality replacement for Volvo OE.

I bought 3-days VIDA Online subscription past summer and among other things did check if any TCM sw is available. The latest was in mid-2000. My 05 had the latest sw already. Few folks, me including, got rid of most of weird shifting problems by switching back to Volvo's 1161540 ATF. It is thicker t...

Your TCM software is most certainly good (latest). What ATF was put last into your transmission, and when was that done?

As a person with English as his third language, I delete about 2/3 of my replies because they are not passing my internal grammar-nazi, and I'm too lazy to rework it

Now you have a great handy tool that can do Haldex flange nut, bevel gear locking nut, semi-frozen bolts, etc

Crankcase pressure can drive this oil out.

Rear main seal, too.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:12 pm Just toss it because it is more prone? That would be a unnecessary waste time and money.

What would you do with a cracked cylinder sleeve?

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:04 pm What does it being a R engine have to do with it?

Much more prone to cracked sleeves.

Given it's R, new gasket won't help. Need another engine.

Hole in air intake, ECM-262A says that. ECM-4019 says what can substitute a hole.

Crimp the hose coming from EVAP system, see how it idles. If it's still uneven, smoke-test the intake.

XC70 got Gen 3 from 2006, not 2003, like FCP blog says.

ECM-439C is either a cracked rubber ring on fuel filler cap or a dead EVAP test pump.

No common communication errors. At this point I would check the collar sleeve as others already suggested.

Please read the codes and attach screenshot with all codes, even inactive (yellow).

Read the codes/

On my 05 XC70 it was dropping transmission into safe mode (4th gear, torque converter locked) when brake pedal position sensor died. DiCE/VIDA said directly what was the problem.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-30742306

Lobes on intake are about 42 mm, about 43 on exhaust. I think you can't mess them with the lock tool installed, the notches would not fit slots in camshafts unless they are properly placed.

What is exactly the problem? Did they take camshafts out, gears and hubs off, so you can't figure out which camshaft is which?

Can you share a picture of those? I took 2.5T engine apart recently, don't remember any needle bearings.

I got the kit from FCP in a hope for the lifetime warranty, in case I need it at some point in the future ;) TascaParts is the cheapest, I think. You need a pair of 30681745 and 8666292. Real conversion kit also includes its own 19 mm thick rear stabilizer bar, which I decided to omit, since the car...

Nivomats were stock on our X70s in some trims. Installation is bolt-on, just buy the shocks and springs.

Connector looks similar to one in his 2.5T wire harness (I bought one for the future repair).

kklepack wrote: ↑Wed Mar 11, 2020 9:44 amNot sure on engine designation, but it has same coil packs as 2.5 and 2.5 engines.

It will fit if you dare to trace wires to coil packs in case the colors do not match.

What about VVT solenoid? Same connector? Or you can reuse your old one.

With the springs settled down in a few days: https://a.d-cd.net/4AAAAgIwQeA-960.jpg In action: https://a.d-cd.net/mgAAAgFXaeA-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/4gAAAgFXaeA-960.jpg I'm going to upgrade rubber from stock 215/65R16 to 235/70R16, lift should allow that. Sway bars are XC90/front and V70R/rear. ...

I have a similar lift kit installed in my XC70 (made myself, but the principles are similar). Love it!

In fact, with the lift and BFG KO2's it is hands down better in snow than my new Tundra TRD Offroad, which is a joke: "offroad" in Tundra is just a sticker.

Does it have same coil packs like 2.4T/2.5T engines use? I would say "yes" then.

What engine designation is it? I can look in EWD if the colors match.

There's a Volvo fellow on ebay who does a hand made mild lift kit for S60/V70/XC70 P2 that does not kill CV joints: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233520779730 The kit is cheaper, fits better (strut mount bearing spacer is CNC-machined) and has more subframe spacers than in other kits. He also makes a ver...

You need to synchronize other modules with your new CEM, they are a part of immobilizer network. Replacing just CEM alone won't do it.

You can purchase pre-cut key from the dealer and program it yourself with VIDA Online or VDASH.

xHeart wrote: ↑Thu Mar 05, 2020 12:24 pm VTL: do I disconnect vvt solenoid for a clarity of the issue?

Correct. VVT won't advance angle.

Just wanted to follow up, since things have changed. The Volvo Specialists told me that the transmission fluid level was too high and that it was leaking from one axle. While I was waiting for a garage to repair it, the error stopped occurring. Everything seems good now. Will have the leak fixed ne...

Don't forget to recheck valves clearance after lapping.

I'm going after the whole thing, just out of curiosity (man should do at least one engine in his life)

02 had it, 05 had it, another 05 - had not. Need a software download.

Donor 05 was produced only 167 XC70s later then the one I crashed

I don't mind low beams as DRL.

- Pete - wrote: ↑Mon Mar 02, 2020 7:08 pmI'll never understand why people leave the carpet floor mats in their cars, regardless of the season.

Unbearable stench should make you utterly miserable and force to buy a new car with new carpet mats in about 3-4 years.

I literally smell interior stench of a neglected Volvo looking at these photos...

What a clean head! I'm planning to boil mine in dimethyl sulfoxide to dissolve carbon that seems to be everywhere in donor engine.

Yours may have one - my first, now wrecked XC70 had it. Can only be verified with DiCE/VIDA.

I believe that upgrade charge is to access other special features and activations normally not granted unless you are a dealer or have a paid subscription. You should not need any upgrade in order to access DRL settings, just the regular ViDA/DiCE without paid subscription. It needs a user customiz...

Download "community" version of VIDA from torrent, install it yourself. It is not hard at all, just read the software requirements before you try to do anything.

Don't remember how it was in 02 with manual climate control, but in my 05 with automatic it stays off. Until window defrost is turned on. Why it worries you? Air conditioner is used to dry the air, then it is heated in heating core. I turn it off, because the donor car I've got has no afterblow func...

AW55-51 in Volvo outlasts Volvo engine IF it sees a fresh fluid every 30-50k and has extra ATF cooler. Heat and dirty ATF is what kills it.

Drain and fill a few times, it takes about 3 liters per round. Dexron III misses friction modifiers, it causes harsh gear shifts and erratic controlled slip. It could be your ATF it Dex-III compatible, but also has a modifiers pack that makes it compatible with modern transmissions, like AW55. You w...

wczimmerman wrote: ↑Fri Feb 28, 2020 12:16 pm How were you able to determine the pump failed?

Diagnostic (in VIDA) was not starting, vacuum was not increasing. Perhaps, car software thought: "Ouch, can't create any vacuum, it must be a large hole".

I do see it. So, drop the exhaust and remove the heat shield should reveal that canister? Then I just check the lines for signs of leakage. Yes. You will have very little access to the hoses, may need to lower subframe partially for better access. Unbolting one corner takes it down for 2-3 inches. ...

Bosch throttle units rarely die. 2007 has Bosch. Any engine problem that affects torque output, yields to a reduced quality of transmission shifts, since transmission learns how to shift for this and that torque. When you'll get your engine problem fixed the car would shift as it should, most likely...

Belts were bought at FCP. T-belt was ok, only riding on sprockets unevenly, I was mostly worried about my serp. belt observations (snapped, too much force put on pulleys). T-belt replacement with Volvo was more of "f-k you, Conti". It just does not make sense to pay $10-20 less for aftermarket parts...

Every single bit was replaced. Twice in 120k miles, in fact. Banjo bolt (the nipple) I replaced one more time just a week ago or so, because I could not figure out what revision it was when PCV was replaced last time. Turned out, the latest, and it was not clogged: the check valve was pressuring PCV...

Conti T-belt is not "even": one side is thinner than the other, or something along that way. Belt tends to slide to the outer edge of the sprocket. OE belt does not do that. Serpentine belt will eventually cost you a PS pump. It is either a bit too short, or it does not stretch/flex enough, so it re...

I hope you see the picture. Box with a cross is the canister, white box to the right - EVAP diagnostic pump.

Are you replacing camshaft seal or VVT hub? For t-belt alone locking tool is not needed... As said, do marks on old t-belt and all sprockets (two camshafts, one crankshaft), remove t-belt, transfer marks to new t-belt, count teeth between marks twice, install. Use paper clips to hold t-belt on camsh...

People drive for years with the gaskets leaking, it can wait till summer for sure.

On all 3 P2s I've had these gaskets were leaking, or even cracked/broken.

Need to drop angle gear to reach lower manifold bolts. $1900 is insane, can do it over weekend. Parts are expensive, but some of them can be ignored/reused (bolts/nuts for strut, propeller shaft, AG, etc). Manifold studs are very expensive, they can break, leave it on your our discretion, but nuts m...

My 05 has engine w/ 223k miles, PCV develops a good vacuum at idle. Under boost it has some positive pressure, that started in less than 2 years. I.e. no crankcase problems for 13 years and 200k miles. Engine is pretty much cooked if a good, newly installed PCV can't get a negative pressure in crank...

You can set/switch/alternate a bunch of parameters using counterfeit VIDA and Chinese DiCE clone, but only if your car's software was updated to do so. My current XC70 can't do it, need a sw downloaded using VIDA Online (about $200 venture for 3-days access and cost of sw itself), the one I crashed ...

Why people are so proud of Castrol? Here's pics of T2 engine after Castrol: https://a.d-cd.net/sgAAAgHJVeA-960.jpg See it starts to cook in cylinder #2 already? https://a.d-cd.net/AgAAAgHJVeA-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/RAAAAgPJVeA-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/EAAAAgPJVeA-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/agA...

I vote for a hole/crack in exhaust. Did you replace exhaust manifold gaskets? Also the nuts can slacken there, may need another torque to spec.

Sweed wrote: ↑Wed Feb 26, 2020 10:23 amPumping helps but still not great

So the tires don't provide enough grip? How lighter is your Focus than XC70? Wiki says Focus hatchback is ~1200-1500 kg, XC70 is IIRC 1600 kg.

Mine is rock solid. Can you stop quicker by pumping the brake pedal?

Any ABS problems? Rusted tone rings, etc?

One day I'll finish it (pictures taken 3 years ago): https://a.d-cd.net/647437es-960.jpg https://a.d-cd.net/47437es-960.jpg This is a differential pressure sensor MPXV7002DP connected to Arduino. I was planning to attach it permanently to PCV and display the readings somewhere. My Driver Distraction...

ABS kicks in when the vehicle starts to slide. ABS is not the cause of bad ice braking, but an indication of bad traction of your tires. I've been using a lot of crappy plastic eco tires in the beginning that have had great MPG, but ugly traction. Now all my tires have lowest UTQG possible (wear out...

Dynomite6985 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:48 pm I have no idea what the toe is set at, its on factory struts and springs, alignment is good, according to the butt dyno anyway.

If alignment is good and LCA front bushings are intact too, I'd look at replacing the axles.

Mmmm there-in lies the problem. Trans as I have it doesn't have a sleeve in there which is why I was worried about a new one falling out since it doesn't have dubious amounts of north east road rust to freeze it. Also I know about the seals but thanks for the headsup anyway. First press sleeve in =)

One more thing: what's your front toe numbers and how bad a the front LCA bushings? Bad toe, ether static or dynamic (when bad bushings flex too much) causes tires to run away and jump back on track.

Replace both =) 150k miles is about right time when P2 axles die even in not abused vehicles.

Frozen crank pulley you have to work out with PB Blaster, rubber mallet, hands. The gear behind pulley is not difficult with 2- or 3-jaw puller (plus a coin).

Don't think it's GKN/Loebro. GKN is/was OE for P2 Volvos, it is about twice cheaper than new Volvo axle, so around $300. They do last, unlike these cheap Chinese axles.

I've had bad experience with all new aftermarket axles in price range up to $180/piece. GKN works fine.

You need a reverse hammer and your share of luck to remove collar sleeve from the differential. Leave it as is, it won't come out on its own. Angle/bevel gear has two seals that sit on the CV axle. One of these seals is located inside collar sleeve, make sure it is replaced with a new one, since it ...