I just wanted to add that when I was in the shop we used to replace these t-stats on cars which failed the NOX portion of the smog tests. The cars with a "hot-air postion" stuck t-stat or hot-air leak will produce dramatically elevated NOX emissions due to excessive combustion temperatures...

BTW, all the fuses you should care about will be in that distribution box. You mentioned you checked the others, but make sure you check the ones in there, as they are the main feed fuses.

Forget the gauge on your battery charger. In my experience seldom do they actually work properly, and you it may be an ammeter and not a volt meter. A multimeter is great if you know how to use it (ie: set range, configure test leads, ect.) but buy a test light for basic troubleshooting- the bulb dr...

Here's what mine looked like:

It's the triangularish box on the drivers front strut tower that houses many of the system relays, fuses and the main power feed from the battery. Remove the cover and you will see the nut I am talking about.

"do you mean that the actual battery wire may be damaged?" Yes, my positive battery cable corroded and then failed just below the nut where it secures in the panel. It is a common problem, but most don't get to that point. I got lucky;) It might well not be your problem, but it will be hel...

Assuming you have done a proper load test in consideration of the frigid temperatures.... MIJ may definately be on the right track with the ign switch. If you don't get signs of life when jiggling the key, FWIW (this happened to me) I would suggest: You need to work your way from the battery to the ...

I've seen a few times where that hose just gets so soft from the oil accumulating inside it that it will collapse in the absence of a restriction, but at least we're on the right track here. Sounds like your battery is ready to be replaced too...time for a load test and alternator check.

Are you sure it't the upper radiator hose flattening, and not the air induction hose from the intercooler?

JRL and others are right on... but it is actually the electrical part of the ignition switch that fails. This part is available seperately from the entire lock assembly, and can be fixed in situ by just dropping the panel... and with some patience you can remove and replace those screws that hold it...