Now I am confused.
I also have a FPR, in front of the RR tire, and a damper with a vacuum connection.
I bought Bosch p/n W0133-1660728
I didn't see any without a vacuum connection.

The O2 code just came up yesterday, so I'm not sure if it was going out and making things rich before the CEL came on (it has been rich for a while).
The damper I have has a vacuum line, and the one that was in before did as well.
I cleared codes with scanner, and the battery was disconnected for ...

Ah. I just read some of your thread of your quest to discover that fact! Someone there mentioned that one should replace the damper if it is leaking fuel into the vacuum line, which I think was going on anyway.
I have tested my fuel pressure, and it was at 44 psi on the nose, which is normal right ...

MVSCORE indeed abscate! Good call.

My car has a damper, which is basically a FPR without a return line to the fuel tank.
I'm not able to take a picture of my set-up at the moment, but have a couple stock photos to show the difference. I can upload a picture of my actual damper later if that's what ...

So, I put on a new fuel pressure damper, and the car is running much smoother.
I went to change the fouled spark plugs, and they seemed to have been cleaned off on their own, with little or no residue on the tips, but changed them anyway.
Have been trying to find a walk-through for plugging the SAS ...

Thanks, abscate and misha!

Will be out of town for the weekend, but will get back at it Monday or Tuesday and update with a new FPR.

misha, so just use like a rubber plug or something? I don't trust myself to mod the ECU. I have read that these don't really do anything, and I don't need emissions ...

Thanks for the relatively good news! I have been bracing myself for the news that I've got a $1500+ repair bill coming my way (replace head gasket, valve, seals).

I pulled a hose off the vacuum tree as a quick check before taking the fuel rail apart to get to my FPR, and there was the smell of ...

Alright.
So here are the second run results:
Dry
1- 180
2-140
3-120
4-115
5- 140

Wet - ~1oz (30ml) oil
1- 120 (weird?)
2- 135
3- 122
4- 150
5- 150

So as I was doing this over the course of about 45 minutes for all of them, and I went from normal operating temperature (after about 15 min driving ...

The engine was still warm when I did the test, but hadn't been driven for a couple of hours.
I pulled ignition connector, and the fuel pump relay, before testing.
Cranked about 7-9 times (Chilton says 5), but will keep it around 6-7 next time (doing it alone, so hard to tell when PSI is at a peak ...

I have checked with my OBD, and it does not list any codes. I have the occasional P0410 (secondary air pump), but that shouldn't matter with this, right?
So got a new tester, and only did a dry run, since it is getting late, and this test is probably irritating people already.
DRY (psi)
1-154
2 ...