Hello Volvebaker,
Thanks for the update, and also thanks for the whole thread overall — it has been really helpful. I’m currently at basically the exact same point where I have to install the insert.

One question on the insert setup: what final torque did you end up using on the tensioner roller ...

Sveedy wrote: 22 Mar 2026, 13:35 I'm still trying to figure out how it is that you're going 33 mph, but 0 rpm's....
Shut off the engine and just coasted ?

the gas gauge and the tachometer work when they want to…neither of which chose to in this photo

hit a “lucky” milestone if you’re a fan of 7’s :mrgreen:
IMG_7370.jpeg
been putting off PCV service but it’s coming soon


I guess that means you don't have a broken odometer gear :o

everyone, “guarantees it’s coming,” but I’ve been lucky so far, knock on wood…maybe a lucky quirk of the ...

hit a “lucky” milestone if you’re a fan of 7’s been putting off PCV service but it’s coming soon

Thought I’d give a final update for everyone:

The screw in insert worked great, with a properly made tensioner lever! Here is the source of the exact item for anyone looking in the future:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CH8JKNP6

I did have to shave just a thread off the end to make it fit ...

UPDATE: Went to a local old school Volvo parts place, a favorite of mine, and was able to confirm: I was sent AFTERMARKET CRAP.

024E6E15-E66E-40FF-BDB2-EDF9D6CA0C83.jpeg

Picked up an OEM Febi lever. The bearing sleeve should come further down and have a lip that sticks out the rear side. On ...

It's hard to say without seeing exactly what you're dealing with, but would a solid bushing or small piece of pipe do what you want ?


Yes that’s exactly what I’m thinking, but I’m trying to understand if I’m indeed missing something on the rear side of the pulley, if it’s just a defective lever ...

Well, the reducer inserts came and worked like a charm to make the later style bolt screw right into my block.

However, when I snug the tensioner pulley down, it does not move freely on the sleeve/bearing. I cannot for the life of me figure it out.

It’s drawing down on the frame of the lever and ...

The T45 pivot bolt for the tensioner roller is plug-and-play, no custom M10 needed. For best belt tracking, also use the later idler roller that matches the wide-belt setup.

afranke Unfortunately, I misunderstood what you originally posted. The T45 bolt is NOT plug and play and the new roller’s ...

Short version: yes, aside from the later-style parts, the only hardware you need to add is two M8×1.25×~40 mm flange bolts for the hydraulic tensioner body (Volvo 988179)......

Can’t thank you enough, friend!! I will get those bolts ordered from FCP (988179) and plan to do all the work when our ...