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1998 S70 rear window stuck down but I can't read electrical diagrams

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Swedishcar
Posts: 7
Joined: 21 August 2025
Year and Model: 1998 S70 sedan
Location: just south of SF CA

1998 S70 rear window stuck down but I can't read electrical diagrams

Post by Swedishcar »

I have searched for an answer and even downloaded the electrical diagrams but they don't mean much to me. I have successfully removed the door panel ( meaning I didn't mangle it) but now I'm stuck. Gonna rain soon so I really want this sucker closed! And it's embarrassing driving around with plastic flapping out my window! Just can't afford the one or two hundred bucks a garage would charge me but I also don't want to electrocute myself. Can anyone help a complete novice with this?

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

Lets focus on getting the window up.
It is being moved up or down by electric motor.
Look at the pictures from ebay.
https://ebay.us/m/hc3lO4
It has 2 wire connector where the harness from the car attaches. When polarity changes-window is going up or down. Since you are "novice" lets try the simplest and safest aproach. Disconnect the connector from the windows motor. Not many have 12v battery laying around, buy simple 9v batery with connector(old toys, smoke detector) will hopefully work. Clean small portion of insulation from connector wires(do not attach battery while doing this, make sure you are not touching wires together when battery is connected). Connect battery and carefully touch with wires connector at motor. It should slowly go up or down. If you see it is trying to engage(clicking, some movement) but not going anywhere, it is possibly in lowest position, so try to change wires around(change polarity) and hopefully it will go up. This is the most basic and safest aproach. Ideally you would do the same with 12v batery through an inline fuse.
https://share.google/Ez1wr9FKM37OmbDTr
Something like this. 1 wire connected to "-" of the 12v batery, another wore connected to "+" of the batery. Then positive wire getting attached to this splice and you install 5amp fuse into the block. With the other end of the splice and ground wire you are supplying 12v to the electric motor. In case if any issue-fuse will burn and nothing damaged.
It is rare that those motos are going bad(but possible). Are you able to hear motor clicking while trying to open close the windows from drivers door or switch on the problematic door? Any chance the "kid window lock" is engaged on driver's control? Are all the other doors working good? If all the doors are working great and only 1 is broken. You tried to supply voltage to the motor and nothing..get yourslef 2 small t-pins or needles. Remove connector from motor. Gently place t-pins into connector not to spread it too much. Buy yourself test light similar to below. Attach one end(clamp) to 1 t-pin, and with tip of the tester touch the other pin. Now ask someone or if possible by yourself to try to open/close the window through drivers switch and through switch on the door(car is running or key is in 2 position, but better running not to drain battery accidentally) Lamp should shine with either(polarity changes, but for incandescent light it doesn't matter). If your test light is bright and motor is not working-defective motor.

https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circ ... IdEALw_wcB

Keep us posted how you will do.
After you will sort through above, we can help you narrowed down diagnosis. You will now have essential tools and confidence.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

If you have a voltmeter and a helper , it’s pretty simple to test for 12V at the motor when someone operates the switch

That tells you of its wiring or motor.

In order of probability I would say it’s…

Fuse? If they are individually fused
Mail driver Door switch
Rear door switch
Motor
Wiring

I’ve got a bunch of doors if you need parts
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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