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Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Delta Link Repair DIY
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taxi
Posts: 236
Joined: 16 June 2010
Year and Model: V70 2000
Location: Västerås, Sweden
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Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement

Post by taxi »

Hi! A little late, but yes, the bigger side is up.
Just did my left side today, I drilled a little plastic to soften it and pulled it out using a homemade tool. (really ugly, but it worked).
Image

caltemus
Posts: 9
Joined: 24 December 2013
Year and Model: 1994 855 NA 5spd
Location: United States
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by caltemus »

Tool is availiable from a site in germany right now, and includes an additional brace that might mitigate some of the damage the loan-tool has faced in the past.

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/ac ... e/1018424/

the brace: http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/ac ... e/1061471/

All in it was 141 USD shipped from germany. Hopefully that, combined with some heat and kroil, will make the job fairly straightforward.

as400jockey
Posts: 34
Joined: 30 March 2012
Year and Model: V70 T5, 2001
Location: Boston

Post by as400jockey »

My two cents word to the wise...

The rear links on my 98 S70 were beyond shot. I bought the genuine Volvo tool (got a deal - $95 brand new). I nearly destroyed it.

I mistakenly thought that the stub on the bottom of the C clamp end went into the lower bolt hole, and that the bolt on the top of the c clamp went into the top bolt hole. I nearly stripped the tool. Fortunately after an hour's frustration I actually flopped on my back and saw that there's A SECOND HOLD ON THE BOTTOM. Only the bottom hole is used for leverage.

OMG.

Fat lot of good that bachelor's in Mechanical Engineering did me. :mrgreen:

It makes a LOT more sense now.

After drilling out a bunch of the rubber and attaching the tool CORRECTLY, I was able to remove the link. Installation went fairly well - greased up the plastic and the hole and it went in with little complaint.

Driver's side nice and quiet now, thus making the passenger side far more noticeable. So I guess I'll be doing that one also. The OTHER side bodes to be much easier and FAR less frustrating!

BTW I bought the FEBI links on FCP - about $35 each if I recall - and they look good, went in without a fight. We'll see how they last compared to the 20 year old ones that were in the car.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
2001 V70 T5; 1998 S70 Sport; 1998 S70 T5 (sold); 2002 S60 (sold); 1980 245 Wagon (crusher - rusted to smithereens); a few others... learned carb fixing at 10 year old on Dad's 1971 144 sedan.

RedEyeWalker
Posts: 1
Joined: 8 October 2025
Year and Model: 1997 850 Sportswagon
Location: Skandinavia

Post by RedEyeWalker »

This is such a great write up!

I'd need to replace my delta link frame mount on the driver's side (left). I'm not touching the delta links this time.
It seems in the pictures that Ozark Lee's car is not jacked up - is it possible to remove and install the mounting bracket with wheels on the ground?
And how would you relieve the stress on the trailing arm and delta link bolt - jack near the link itself or under the spring cup?

If someone has experience in replacing the bracket only and have some pointers that'd be great.
I'm working with hand tools and jack stands.
2.5 10V B5252FS/S M56

Chieber
Posts: 107
Joined: 1 March 2025
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: Netherlands
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Post by Chieber »

RedEyeWalker wrote: 08 Oct 2025, 05:50 This is such a great write up!

I'd need to replace my delta link frame mount on the driver's side (left). I'm not touching the delta links this time.
It seems in the pictures that Ozark Lee's car is not jacked up - is it possible to remove and install the mounting bracket with wheels on the ground?
And how would you relieve the stress on the trailing arm and delta link bolt - jack near the link itself or under the spring cup?

If someone has experience in replacing the bracket only and have some pointers that'd be great.
I'm working with hand tools and jack stands.
It’s easier with wheels off since it’ll has less weight in the arms.
I put a bottle jack under the spring seats to release tension and then pried the arm off the guide pin.

For the first side I used the Volvo tool and hand ratcheted the link out. That took a while.
The other side I tried using an impact driver and that made it quick and easy. The vibrations of the impact driver shook it out the arm.

1/2 a shitbox V70 1998 2.5 NA

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