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Fuel pump removal made easy

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.
1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70
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Volvo Repair Database Fuel pump removal made easy

Post by luketrash » Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:03 pm

Perhaps this will help someone else faced with fuel pump removal.

I purchased a pick'n'pull fuel pump out of a 138k Volvo 850 turbo today at my local salvage yard.

It didn't take me very long to get it out once I thought about what tools I had on hand.

Here's sort of a step by step, if anyone wants to write up a how-to.

Find your fuel pump access panel. I have a wagon, so it was under the inner flip-up panel in the hatch. Remove the 5 10mm nuts and use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the panel.

Pull the wiring harnesses free from their mounting point on the car (there's all sorts of wires hooked up back there.)

* Depressurize your fuel system up under the hood next to the throttle pulley by unscrewing the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Blow the gas into a rag or something. No smoking!

Ok, back in the fuel pumpish area:

I found it very easy to use my spark plug boot pliers to pull the fuel lines free from the top of the pump. No risk of breaking things by using flathead screwdrivers.


Next, I used Jigaloo (use your silicone lubricant of choice) sprayed around the neck of the black retaining ring that holds the fuel pump onto the gas tank. I used it up by the top of the fuel pump as well as down around the bottom.

Then, since the retaining ring wasn't budging by me using a mallet and screwdriver as a drift, I remembered my oil filter pliers. They worked very well to break it free and subsequently loosen the retaining ring:


Push all the little tubings and wires out of the way once you pull the retaining ring free and slowly pull out your fuel pump. If you're like me, you have just filled your gas tank full right before doing this:


Out with the old, in with the new. Installation is the reverse of removal (don't you hate it when you read that sentence???)


While I was putting away my tools, I noticed that my Austin Healey was trying to sneak into the hatch of my wagon....


Sorry about the quality of the photos. I remembered I had a camera phone (a recent addition to my posessions) so that's what I used.

The whole process took me less than a half hour including thinking about how to do the job as easy as possible.

'94 Gunmetal Gray 855 2.4L 100% stock. This is Volvo #7.

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Post by MadeInJapan » Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:00 pm

Thanks for your write-up (I doubt we'll get a better one soon)! I'm pinning this in the repair database. If anyone wants to add more details, etc., please feel free.

'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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Post by sseir39 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 8:24 pm

Love the tools you use. The make so much sense. Great post.

th-edi ll
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Post by th-edi ll » Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:35 am

Not sure how much better of a description might be made. Thanks for the info and the pics are fine on my computer.

Nice Healey too, kinda the antithesis of the wagon in terms of driver saftey...but oh so much fun! 8)

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850 Fuel Pump replacement

Post by bockreiter » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:59 pm

Thanks luketrash! Following your directions I just replaced the fuel pump in my 850 Turbo Wagon. I only have to add 3 things:
1st : Be safe! Disconnect the battery and drain any stored current by pressing the brakepedal before opening the fuel pump access area. Once the pump cover is unscrewed fumes from the tank will start to waft up into the passenger compartment. Avoid any thing "sparky".
2nd: I used an alternate method of relieving the fuel pressure - I pulled the the fuse (#2 15 amp) for the fuel pump. Then I started the engine. After a few seconds all remaining fuel was burnt. If you don't trust this method, there is a pressure relief valve right behind the fuel filter. I personally don't like the idea of spilling fuel in the engine compartment.
3rd: I bought the fuel pump repair kit after some shopping around. I found several manufacturers including Bosch (OEM). The kit I bought comes with the pump, the filter sock, wiring harness, a new hose and clamps. It took less than 20 minutes to remove the original pump from the plastic cradle. The kit came with very good directions for dis-assembly and re-assembly of the pump assembly. I would recommend to anyone facing a fuel pump replacement to pull the current pump assembly and inspect the plastic cradle for damage (cracks). If the cradle appears to have a few more years of life, quite a bit of money can be save with a rebuilt kit.

'94 850 Turbo Wagon

approx. 200,000 miles.

John Cherubini Dublin
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fuel pump Volvo 850 96

Post by John Cherubini Dublin » Tue May 06, 2008 5:10 am

Hey thanks luketrash,very helpful info,I actually used two flat head screwdrivers one either side to remove the retaining ring and worked a treat,now... apparently there is a second pump on drivers side (europe) under back door,does this need replacing?? :?:
I'm replying to my own question.. Didn't need to touch the one under the car,i'm back on the road motoring away,may the 850 live forever!!!!

96 Volvo 850.2.0 10v 182,000miles

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Post by renns » Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:16 pm

I swapped a pump this morning, and didn't have the spark plug pliers Luke used to release the fuel lines from the pump. I found this door panel removal tool in the toolbox ($2 at the local Chinese tool supplier) worked just great!

1994 850 5-speed wagon, retired at 400,000 km
1998 V70 AWD 5-speed, retired at 358,000 km.
2005 XC70 144,000 km - daily driver

Oahu1993 850
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Post by Oahu1993 850 » Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:24 am

Can someone tell me if the access to the Fuel Pump is the same in a 1993 850 GLT, my car? I can not recall seeing a hatch in my car's trunk like in the posts for the station wagon. Do I have to drop the gas tank instead...or pay to have it done?

I have just done the jumpering of the Fuel Pump Relay described elsewhere and with 12 volts on both pins where the relay socket is the car engine turns over and does not start. I removed the cap on the little "bicycle tire" valve on the front of the engine and fuel dribbles out, no pressure from Fuel Pump.

Appreciate your help...Thank You.

1993 850 GLT

175,000 miles

bought used 2000 JAN

Costs too much to repair.

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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Post by Ozark Lee » Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:46 am

The access hatch is in the same place on your sedan. Just behind the rear passenger's side seat under the trunk carpet. There are two covers, one is for the pump and the other is for the fuel level sender. The one closest to the side of the car is the fuel pump cover.


'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
'99 V70XC - Nautic Blue
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

Oahu1993 850
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Location: Oahu, Hawaii

Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Post by Oahu1993 850 » Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:48 pm

Thank you, Ozark Lee, and Luketrash, especially the photos.

Question: The Fuel Pump Relay, it only has four pins, looking at the bottom contact side of the Relay "103"

front of car
| 15 |
| |
passen | 31b 31 | driver side of car
side of | |
car | |
back of ca

Pins 87 and 13 are connected when the relay opperates to connect 12 volts from the fuse to the Fuel Pump. At least when I jumper them I measure 12 vDC at Fuel Pump. When I check resistance across 31 and 31 b in both directions it measures around 4.9 Kilo Ohms, which would be a coil. Measue both ways in case there is a reverse current protectino diode in the coil circuit. So I check pins 31 and 31b in the car with the relay out and no voltage on either coil contact to operate the Relay.

?? Where does the Fuel Pump coil voltage come from...directly from the ignition switch contacts? From a computer that must have the crank position input to operate the 103 relay? I assume it is time for me to buy a Haynes manual, but perhaps someone has been along this path and can shed some light. It also appears the Fuel Pump is gone, with 12 v across the red and black wire terminations it makes no noise. But first things first.

I and my aging Volvo again thank you.

1993 850 GLT

175,000 miles

bought used 2000 JAN

Costs too much to repair.

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