'95 850 front suspension problems

[tpettyrox]

I'm driving a 1995 850 Turbo with just over 200k miles, and I have some front suspension problems. Here are the symptoms:
- Squeaky
- Clicking when turning LEFT at low speeds
- A tiny amount of roughness for the first half-mile when starting cold.

I figure I've got two problems: I need new front shocks, and I probably have a busted CV Boot or Ball Joint that causes the clicking. I don't know which axle it would be in - I guess the left. I figure the roughness is related, or it's just in my head. Can someone confirm my suspicions?

I'm no mechanic, but I have done lots of my own work on both of my 850s (brakes, spark plugs, wire sets, rotors, distributor caps, oil changes, turbo hoses). I've never done any suspension work. How difficult might the necessary repairs be?

I've shopped FCP Groton (they're the greatest), and I'm debating just replacing both front axles [$75 each], but I'm not sure if it's worth the expense if I only need to replace a single CV boot [$18] or a Ball Joint [~$30 AutoZone]. I'm also unsure of whether or replacing an axle is within the limits of my mechanical skills. I would really appreciate it if someone would share their expertise.

I'm also getting ready to do my first serpentine belt replacement. The pulleys/tensioner shouldn't need replacing this time around. From what I've read, it's not difficult at all; however, I will be giving my pending timing belt job to a local Volvo mechanic. Any tips?

[russell2419]

I think you may be on the right track about your driveshaft gaiters being split. If that is the case, you may be able to solve a number of problems.
1) If the grease from your driveshaft has leaked because of the gaiter splitting, it may have fallen on to your wishbone (the capital letter A shaped support that joins your suspension leg to the chassis leg). The grease will attack the rubber OEM bushes and make them soft possibly causing a squeak. I suggest you consider polybushes.
2) The clicking noise may be because you do not have enough grease to lubricate the large ball bearings inside your cv joint. You will need to check this as a matter of urgency because the joint could seize without warning if it overheats! When checking the joint, look to see if the ball bearings have a distinct blue tinge. If they do, joint has had it.
3) If you are putting your car in for a cambelt change, your mechanic will need to remove the surpentine belt as part of the cambelt change procedure. If he/she is any good, that person will advise of any problems at the time.

Hope this helps.

[Ozark Lee]

Start off by popping open the hood and observing the top of the strut mounts. As you push up and down on the fender or bumper you shouldn't see any vertical movement in the large castle nut on top of the strut mount. Movement there says the spring seats are shot. That will cause a lot of noise over bumps.

The clacking you describe indeed sounds like CV joints but you need to get the car up on jack stands and take a look at the boots. If the boots are split it is easier (albeit more expensive) to just replace the axles. I have heard mixed reviews on the FCP axles. The ones that have had universal praise are from www.raxles.com.

While the car is on jack stands check your tie rod ends and the ball joint by trying to move the rotor from side to side and up and down (Put a lug bolt back into one of the holes). Any movement is to much and if you do have movement you need to see where it is coming from by looking at the tie rods and bottom of the steering knuckle as you rock the rotor. On a '95 you cannot replace just the ball joint, the ball joint is built into the control arm and it must be replaced as a unit. The best price by far that I have seen on control arms is from www.thevolvopartsclub.com - they are OEM Volvo parts.

Lastly, check for slop in the joints on the sway bar end links.

If you identify defective suspension/steering parts do not replace them with anything that says ScanTech or "aftermarket" You will be doing it all over again if you use ScanTech parts.

...Lee

[chuckcintron]

If your 1995 is now over 200K miles and has never had any front end work done, then I think the best bet is to replace every component in the front suspension, with the exception of springs. Example: you just change the ball joints and I can guarantee you'll find your bushings are shot. You need new axles as well, if you don't want to do the CV rebuild (which at $75 a pop for axles makes sense).

I did this last year at 110K miles on my 1997 wagon, and it made the car feel like new again.

Unfortunately, the suspension on these cars seem to be designed for a lifespan of around 100K miles unless all your driving is on the highway.

It's not a hard set of repairs to do. Get the car aligned immediately after you are done.

-Chuck