Success! Finally after getting the crankshaft pulley off. This latter was a major chore, but it needn't have been. I initially spent all morning building a counterhold tool out of 1" angle iron. I then immobilized/held the counterhold tool with a come along anchored to the car frame near the rear tire. I then yanked with all my strengh using an 18" breaker bar, bracing my foot on the jackstand. No Effect. I then ran off to Home Depot and purchased a 2 foot section of 3/4" galvanized pipe, jacked the car up higher for more head room, placed the pipe over the breaker bar and yanked with all my strength. I felt something give. It turned out the be the counter hold angle iron. It broke. I was beginning to worry that it might be a left handed thread, but further net research pointed to it being a standard right handed thread. I then ran off to A-1 Tool Shed and got some Old Milwaukee ... 3/4" impact wrench that is ($22 rental). I squeezed the trigger and before I even had time to really respond the 30mm nut was spinning free! When removing this nut it helps to have the timing belt currently installed in case the crankshaft rotates. This will roll the camshafts along with it, preventing any valve damage. If the crankshaft does move you can reinstall the nut (now much looser) to turn the crankshaft (clockwise) to align timing marks, and then remove the nut again.
The following picture shows the hard way to remove the crank nut, including the broken counter hold tool.
The following picture shows the easy way to remove the crank nut.
I then removed the four "lug" bolts and the roll pin. Pulley would not come loose. I taped lightly with a hammer. No effect. It was still wedged onto the spindle. I then ran off to Kragen/Schucks/Checker/O'Reilly/CSK Auto and bought a puller for $19. I installed the puller and cranked a few rotations. This was more than was needed. The pulley fell right off, but it also pulled the timing belt crank pinion gear out a half a centimeter or so. This was not much of a problem because the crankshaft pulley nut pushed it back in as it was tightened. Once the puller engages, probably only a few degrees of rotation should break the pulley loose from its friction lock on the spindle. The following picture shows the puller.
The following picture shows the crankshaft pulley, nut, 4 "lug" bolts and the roll pin.
With the crankshaft pulley off, it was cinch to swap the timing belt.
The following picture shows the new timing belt installed on the pulley-less crankshaft timing belt pinion. Look at all the clearance!!! No scraping your knuckles trying to work it free! Also notice the gear assembly is pulled forward on the splines a little bit, as I mentioned earlier.
To reinstall the pulley, align the holes for the role pin, install the four "lug" bolts lightly, tap in the roll/alignment pin, tighten the "lug" bolts, then reinstall the crankshaft nut. I used my lighter air impact wrench to reinstall the crank nut. I watched it push the pulley/timing belt gear back in as it tighted the nut.
One note on using a 6mm allen wrench to adjust the manual tensioner. This is a tight squeeze getting your hands and wrench in there. It helps a lot to use the wrench style with the rounded tips instead of the square tips. The square tip wrench needs to be aligned exactly before it fits into the hole and this is mildly tedious in the tight space.
The following pictures shows me using a mirror to check the intake camshaft alignment marks.
I buttoned everything back up, installed the serpentine belt, started the engine and she pured like a kitten.
-Bruce
Timing belt weekend: '99 S70 non-turbo. Part 2.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Project: Camshaft Pulley When Doing a Timing Belt
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MadeInJapan
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Excellent job, Bruce!
This is now pinned in the repair database.
MIJ
This is now pinned in the repair database.
MIJ
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
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Brucebo
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I've never tried this, and I'm not sure I ever will, but while researching how to hold the crankshaft stationary one poster wrote of the "rope in the cylinder" trick. What you do is remove a spark plug from the desired cylinder, then place this cylinder at the middle of the compression or expansion stroke (depending or which direction you're torquing the crankshaft). Insure you're not on an intake or exhaust stroke as you will damage the valves. Then insert a length of 1/2" or 3/8" rope thru the spark plug hole and fill the cylinder. The rope should have a knot in the end to prevent the end of the rope from falling into the cylinder. The rope jams the piston and prevents the crankshaft from turning.
-Bruce
-Bruce
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Matty Moo
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The rope idea isn't a good one at all. That's making something way more complex than it should be, not to mention sticking an object into an area where an object should never be.
I know timing belts can be intimidating the first time you do them, but people need to be patient. I've done 2 of them on an 850, and will be doing another this month. Cam tools, ropes and crystal balls aren't necessary at all. Just be steady and patient.
I know timing belts can be intimidating the first time you do them, but people need to be patient. I've done 2 of them on an 850, and will be doing another this month. Cam tools, ropes and crystal balls aren't necessary at all. Just be steady and patient.

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Nice write-up Bruce. I just replaced the belt on my son's 02 V70 non-turbo. No impact wrenches available on Memorial Day so I tried to install the belt without removing the harmonic balancer. Removed the plastic shield on the bottom of the pulley and, after an hour or so, managed to prod the belt into place. It can be done! Nonetheless, I strongly recommend removing the HB pulley.
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wheelsup
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I'm surprised that electric impact gun got that nut off. That's pretty impressive. I tried one of the 1/2" ones and it wouldn't even remove my lug nuts. I ended up getting a 25 gal craftsman compressor and a cheapo Kobalt gun in a kit for the job (actually bought to replace the wife's A/C system). I'm much happier with the air tools, wish I would've bought it a loooong time ago.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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Brucebo
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The Milwaukee impact gun in the picture (9075-20 https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9075-20 ... B0000647GB ) is a 3/4", not a 1/2". The socket adapter in the middle is a 3/4" to 1/2", not a 1/2" to 3/8". I initially tried my 1/2" air impact wrench that came with a kit of air tools I have and it wouldn't budge. I had the same issue trying to get the anode rod out of my water heater (1 1/16" nut), which also wouldn't budge with my 1/2 air, but spun out easily with the Milwaukee 3/4".wheelsup wrote:I'm surprised that electric impact gun got that nut off. That's pretty impressive. I tried one of the 1/2" ones and it wouldn't even remove my lug nuts. I ended up getting a 25 gal craftsman compressor and a cheapo Kobalt gun in a kit for the job (actually bought to replace the wife's A/C system). I'm much happier with the air tools, wish I would've bought it a loooong time ago.
-B
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wheelsup
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That's really impressive that the electric 3/4" gun took it off. I might have to look into expanding my compressor outlet to allow for a 3/8" hookup and look into a 3/4" impact gun. The entire reason I went with the air was so I wouldn't ever have to worry about getting nuts off.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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GinnyGreen
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Craigd2599
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Gentlemen...you do realize there is a tool you can buy that resembles a golf tee that inserts into the hole in the crankshaft pulley and locks the crank at TDC? You pull the starter off and there is a cover you remove and the hole is right there. That and the cam locking tool from IPD and you are set.
...if only the shadetree guy who did my head gasket change had known this...
...if only the shadetree guy who did my head gasket change had known this...
Craig D
Philly Boy in Lynchburg VA
2007 S40 Previously: 2 850's and an S80
Waiting for that "R" model barn find
Philly Boy in Lynchburg VA
2007 S40 Previously: 2 850's and an S80
Waiting for that "R" model barn find
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