Heater Hose Replacement: Anyone done this? How? Topic is solved

Skatehouse · Post by **Skatehouse** » 07 Nov 2009, 13:52

Well-I found my heater hose to be leaking. How to you gain access into this tight area? Do I need to remove the air intake into the turbo? Can anyone outline the process please? Thanks!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Nov 2009, 14:38

Remove all of that and then unscrew the clamp at the turbo- I assume you're talking about your accordion hose from the airbox to the turbo?

Skatehouse · Post by **Skatehouse** » 11 Nov 2009, 11:53

Yes-the intake to the turbo. (probably needs to come out to gain access to the heaterhose connections right?). Are they just "hose-clamped" under there?

Also-I was trying to pull-out the hose where it goes into the firewall and cracked the plastic part. Now I need to replace that thing too! I just replaced my heater core so I know how to get into that area-no fun

Just cost myself another hour of work!

mapaed850 · Post by **mapaed850** » 11 Nov 2009, 18:06

I have this same repair in my near future (as soon as the hoses arrive). I already took off the air filter box and battery (probably not necessary). I haven't removed the air intake hose yet. I was able to get both hoses off without incident. I'll be replacing the clips and o-rings because I don't want to do this repair again. Did you break the housing in the fire wall? Mine looked as if it were made from metal rather than plastic. Is this possible?
When installing the new hoses into the firewall should I lube the o-rings or is this not necessary?
Any thoughts on whether to install the firewall side first or the engine side first? I was thinking engine side but would appreciate anybody's experiences too.

dbo550 · Post by **dbo550** » 11 Nov 2009, 18:18

mapaed850 wrote:I have this same repair in my near future (as soon as the hoses arrive). I already took off the air filter box and battery (probably not necessary). I haven't removed the air intake hose yet. I was able to get both hoses off without incident. I'll be replacing the clips and o-rings because I don't want to do this repair again. Did you break the housing in the fire wall? Mine looked as if it were made from metal rather than plastic. Is this possible?
When installing the new hoses into the firewall should I lube the o-rings or is this not necessary?
Any thoughts on whether to install the firewall side first or the engine side first? I was thinking engine side but would appreciate anybody's experiences too.

If you are replacing the hoses hook them up on the engine side first then push them into the fire wall. That metal part you are seeing is just a plate that covers the plastic part. This is a pretty easy repair, and if you order the hose coupling kit you won't have to order anymore o rings or anything because everything is included inside the kit.
On a side note the hardest part of the coupling replacement on my 98 v70 was figuring out how to get the gas pedal off, it went as smooth as butter after that.

Skatehouse · Post by **Skatehouse** » 13 Nov 2009, 18:03

Posting the update to the Heater Hose repair. Ordered parts from FCP Groton. I ordered both heater hoses and the hose junction thingy. It came complete with everything necessary to do the job. The job iteslf wasn't very hard, just a beyotch to get to the hoses on the engine block. had to remove quite a few hoses to gain access. Once I got access, the repair went smoothly. I forgot which hose went where

but the connections on the ends of the hoses make this "dummy" proof. One end is longer than the other. I saw that others posted having to reove the gas pedal to change the junction thing. I found that by depressing the pedal all the way down, I was able to manipulate it through the tight space with no problems. I found it easier to make all the connections on the inside 1st, then assemble the gasket and coverplate. It was much more stable to deal with. Before closing everything back up, Start car, warm up and check for leaks under pressure. Looks good?, grab a beer and feel good about saving hundreds of dollars. Over the last year I've changed every inch of coolant line this car has. They all seem to decay all at once. The trickiest I've encountered were for the turbo. Accessed underneath. Bear claw hands need not apply. This heater hose repair was only diffucult because they're not easily accessible and hard to diagnose in the 1st place. If these go bust far from home...you're probably best to tow it home or shop.

I hope this will help anyone else experiencing this problem. Too often we grab what we need from Matthew's AWESOME Volvo site, never to be heard from again. LAME. The learning on this site comes from a nice conclusion to a problem solved.

CHEERS to MATTHEW!!!

mapaed850 · Post by **mapaed850** » 21 Nov 2009, 11:34

So I got my heater hoses installed and plugged the outlet hose into the coupler and much to my surprise the whole hose came right back out with a large peice of the coupler

.
It looks like I will now need to replace the coupler. From the above this doesn't sound too difficult but I'm not sure if we have compareable mechanical skills. I'm not terrible but every so often get in over my head. Is there a step by step of this repair anywhere?
Before I order the coupler, is the crux of this repair removing the gas pedal? Otherwise is is it just a matter of removing the pipes from the inside (easy?), removing the backing plate, installing the coupler, and plugging it all back in?
From the above this all sounds promising for me, I'm just worried about any hiccupps along the way?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 21 Nov 2009, 14:39

There is an extra spacer and O ring in the socket when you remove the OEM hoses. If you are replacing stuff with the Yellow quick connect clamp kit remove the old stuff out of the socket first or things won't snap back together correctly.

...Lee

Post by **confused_al** » 21 Nov 2009, 15:40

: lg_921c1cee-7818-4af4-b8b1-23635395d54f.gif (72.25 KiB) Viewed 16898 times

There are three different Volvo kits you can buy from eEuroparts (similarly priced as FCP):
#8 p/n 3545662, (all the o-rings) in the fig; $30
#7 p/n 3522035, (#8 plus coupler and its o-rings); $36
#6 p/n 9134978, (the whole thing)$63, which I got from DW volvo for $42.

I dont understand why people want save that $6?

mapaed850 · Post by **mapaed850** » 21 Nov 2009, 16:24

I did remove the old o-rings and spacers. I think I did the demage when I removed the old hose. I got the gas pedal off and I'm pretty sure I am in good shape going forward. I'm having trouble getting the heater pipes off the coupler though. I popped the clips with a screw driver and I dropped the heater core to give me some room to wiggle. How did you seperate the pipes from the coupler. Do the pipes come off the heater core easily? Can you then easily get them off the coupler?