Plugs, Wires, Cap, & Rotor DIY

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 26 Jul 2010, 19:01

This write up covers the removal of the distributor cap, distributor rotor, plugs and plug wires. This repair requires no special tools aside from a spark plug gapper.

Tools Required:
Socket Wrench
5/8 Spark Plug Socket
Cheater Pipe
Torque Wrench
3mm Allen Key
10mm Wrench
Extension for Spark Plug Socket and Wrench
Spark Plug Gapping Tool
T-30 Driver
Flat Head Driver
Anti Seize
PB Blaster

: Pic26.JPG (128 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

1. Start with a cold engine; it would be best to let it cool overnight

2. Use a T-30 driver and remove the 6 Spark Plug Cover screws.

: Pic1.JPG (86.86 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

Cover removed:

: Pic2.JPG (88.07 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

3. Disconnect the electrical MAF connector.

: Pic3.JPG (108.43 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

4. Use a flat head screw driver and loosen the hose clamp between the MAF and throttle body. Remove the hose from the MAF.

: Pic4.JPG (86.74 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

Hose removed:

: Pic5.JPG (115.75 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

5. Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery. HAVE YOUR RADIO CODE HANDY!

: Pic6.JPG (114.29 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

6. Release any and all hoses and tubes from the upper portion of the airbox.

: Pic7.JPG (71.07 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

7. Release the 6 snap clips around the airbox. Lift the upper portion up and off to the side. Then remove the lower portion from the car and set it aside. Be careful with the air filter and heating hose (NA models only).

: Pic8.JPG (84.2 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

8. Label the wires with their cylinder number. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the 3 screws holding the distributor in place. You can also try removing the wires from the distributor. Mine were stuck on pretty well and I was replacing them anyway, so I left them on the distributor.

: Pic10.JPG (91.69 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

: Pic11.JPG (93.24 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

9. Pull off the metal cowl under the distributor cap.

: Pic12.JPG (102.69 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

10. Use a 3mm Hex key to remove the rotor.

: Pic14.JPG (94.45 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

: Pic15.JPG (100.46 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

11. With the rotor off, note the groove used for aligning the new rotor. The arrow is pointing to it. This is the only orientation that the rotor will bolt up to.

: Pic16.JPG (100.96 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

12. Bolt the new rotor on.

: Pic17.JPG (89.82 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

13. Put the cowl back on. I almost forgot this and had to go back and put it on after I had screwed the cap back on.

: Pic18.JPG (91.11 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

14. Finally, bolt the new cap on.

: Pic19.JPG (97.61 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

15. Take your wrench, cheater pipe, extension, and spark plug socket and assemble them.

: Pic20.JPG (213.56 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

16. Guide the socket onto the plugs and remove them using steady pressure.

: Pic21.JPG (107.34 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

17. Before installing the new plugs, gap them to .028 inches…

: Pic22.JPG (86.86 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

18. …apply anti seize to them…

: Pic23.JPG (89.81 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

19. …and put them in hand tight…

: Pic24.JPG (64.81 KiB) Viewed 10528 times

20. …before torquing them to 18 ft/lbs.

21. Then install the new wires, and try to arrange them similarly to how they were before. Be careful and make sure you have the wires hooked up to the correct plugs!!! If your wires don’t come with dielectric grease in the boots, apply a little bit before installing them.

22. Secure the wires and reattach the spark plug cover. Start the car and listen to that 5 cylinder growl.

Post by **matthew1** » 28 Jul 2010, 13:00

Fantastic, PM. Pinned in the VRD (#806!). (I have that same torque wrench and hex tool. Gave up smoking a few years ago tho.) You're on a repair documenting tear! Everybody stand back!

Post by **j_cd** » 28 Jul 2010, 17:37

Nice write up for sure! I'll be doing this after I replace the heater hoses and put the turbo back in.

The 3 flathead screws on the distributor cap are also hex bolts. I can't remember right this second if they're 7 or 8mm, but a 1/4" socket with a 5-6" extension works well. I found this out when I couldn't get the bottom one off with a screwdriver.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 28 Jul 2010, 17:44

j_cd wrote:The 3 flathead screws on the distributor cap are also hex bolts. I can't remember right this second if they're 7 or 8mm, but a 1/4" socket with a 5-6" extension works well.

Yeah I noticed that they were also bolts, but since my screw driver worked, I didn't have an oppurtunity or the motivation to find out what kind of socket fit them.

lol

And thanks Matt. haha Sears I think is where I got that torque wrench.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Jul 2010, 18:32

I believe they're 7mm , same as all of the worm clamps on the car. The one at the bottom of the distributor was near impossible (for me anyway) to get to with anything else than a wrench.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Jul 2010, 12:43

Really? Was something in the way, or...? I had no trouble getting to it at all but I was nervous at first to see how hard it would be to reach it with my screw driver.

Post by **jblackburn** » 29 Jul 2010, 13:08

Yeah, the big fat stupid turbo to intercooler pipe gets in the way of just about everything, and I did it without removing it and probably made my life more difficult in the process than needed to be.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Jul 2010, 13:17

Ahhh...yea I can see how that would be a problem. lol

Post by **j_cd** » 29 Jul 2010, 13:24

I believe I'm replacing the original distributor cap after 120,000 miles. The bottom bolt was on tight and I chewed the slot all up trying to get it with a flathead. Therefore I had no choice but to use a socket extension. I prefer using a socket anyway.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 29 Jul 2010, 19:17

Really? I think, although I'm not sure, that mine was original aswell and I have 120K miles too.