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Abs/brake light/no speedo. Had abs module rebuilt, no chang

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Abs/brake light/no speedo. Had abs module rebuilt, no chang

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

Any ideas? I assumed it was the abs module. I sent it out to be repaired and no change. I bought this this way and the speedo worked before I sent the abs module out. I'm also getting the low voltage code and the dash light failure code.

2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

Oh it's a 2000 v70xc

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Make sure that the large connector is actually seated properly. It is very easy to think that it is seated when it hasn't actually grabbed the pins that draw it down into the socket.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
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1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
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1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

Il double check that tomorrow. Makes sense since the speedo isn't working now.

It's still throwing the mil code which I think is a bulb on the dash out and p1633 which is stumping me.

2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

Oh wait 1633 is speed sensor... Might still be the abs module...

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

That (probably) means that one or both of your front wheel sensors has a problem or the wiring is broken.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


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linkhart
Posts: 4
Joined: 17 October 2007
Year and Model: 855 GL NA Man '96
Location: Villanova, PA USA

Post by linkhart »

I had these symptoms and asked my dealer (Keystone). they suggested I try wiggling the key up and down in the lock. It worked. Eventually I ended up replacing the electrical connections on the lock and this fixed the problem. Apparently this is a known issue.

good luck.

2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

linkhart wrote:I had these symptoms and asked my dealer (Keystone). they suggested I try wiggling the key up and down in the lock. It worked. Eventually I ended up replacing the electrical connections on the lock and this fixed the problem. Apparently this is a known issue.

good luck.
woah what? i defintely have a loose connection in the column. when i was getting out of the thing last night i pushed on the wheel and the horn blew! lol. what connections did you replace? What lock? do you mean the ignition cylinder?

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

It would be the electrical portion of that ignition switch, which is separate from the cylinder itself. Try jiggling the key a bit to see if you can get it to work at all. Otherwise, I would start looking at the sensors/wiring.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

2k2wranglerx
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: Pittsburgh

Post by 2k2wranglerx »

jblackburn wrote:It would be the electrical portion of that ignition switch, which is separate from the cylinder itself. Try jiggling the key a bit to see if you can get it to work at all. Otherwise, I would start looking at the sensors/wiring.
can you pull the column cover to gain access to the electrical? i might just do that anyway since it's sitting in my warm garage on jackstands (tires are getting mounted).

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