V70 code EFI-612, 611

ppurdom · Post by **ppurdom** » 13 Apr 2011, 11:32

Hi Everyone,

I have a 1998 V70 w/ 155K miles. The gas mileage seems to have dropped significantly. There is intermittent gas smell from the back of the car and often there is a very rich smell from the exhaust. Also ABS brakes pumping and light goes on. I took it to a mechanic and the repair costs where nearly $2K. I don't have solid income but have time to work on it. The problem description is:

ABS Light On, Check Engine Light on, EFI-612, Tank System-Large Leak, EFI-611, Tank System-Small Leak, Found EVAP Hose Cracked and Replacing Fuel Pump and EVAP Hose.
ABS-314 Right Rear Wheel Sensor Signal- Signal Missing, Signal Faulty, Internal Fault in ABS Control Module

I am thinking of trying to repair the fuel leak and ABS Module to make the car safe enough to drive. The other choice is to donate the car. If I repair it, I hope to be able to do it for $500-$700 in parts. I've researched and the ABS module rebuilt for aprox. $150 and it looks like an intermediate repair w/ 4 bolts difficult to get out.

I was thinking the fuel pump or parts of it need replacing and local hoses. I have replaced a Honda Civic gas tank, would this be similar in nature?

What other repairs and preventive maintenance would be expected to prolong the life? The hoses seems to deteriorate horribly. I have recently replaced the EVAC hoses on the top of the engine.

Thanks for your help,

Paul

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Apr 2011, 13:56

Look at any hoses related to the EVAP system - I don't think there is anything wrong with your gas tank itself or the fuel pump. Most mechanics are completely clueless when it comes to working on Volvos, and will just try throwing parts at it until they fix something one way or another. There are hoses that run from the fuel tank to a charcoal canister, which is either mounted sideways in front of your right rear tire, or under the bumper up front in front of your drivers side tire. Pull it down and look at elbows, hoses, etc.

Pull off your tire and check the wheel sensor itself first - usually an internal fault in the ABS module causes EVERYTHING ABS-related to freak out; not just one specific wheel sensor. It could be that the solder points have pulled loose in the module, but usually others are the first to go.

I'm betting that you will get through this with a much, much lower cost if you just do some basic investigating. A good set of ramps would be a good first investment - I bought my Rhino ramps on sale at Autozone for like $30 and have used them many, many times.

Polvora79 · Post by **Polvora79** » 13 Apr 2011, 16:30

The ABS module is fine to get out, but really hard to get back in!

ppurdom · Post by **ppurdom** » 13 Apr 2011, 17:34

Definitely a good investment on the ramps, Where would I get the elbows needed to replace and how many? Last time I removed hosing I used generic replacement on rolls from the Auto store, will that be good again for the regular hosing?

When I talked to the mechanic he mentioned cracks in the plastic (top) cover of the fuel pump and mentioned a kit to repair it, what would the kit consist of?

What is hardest about getting ABS Module back in, getting the bolts started or the tool in limited space?

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Apr 2011, 18:25

It depends - the ones for the charcoal canister are probably a dealer or online parts store item - I know that the J-hose itself is on top of the canister.

Most of the 4mm elbows can be found locally if you need them; others work with straight shots of tubing and just clamps.

I myself have never heard of such a kit, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. The fuel pump is the one thing I have not had to deal with, but as I understand the whole thing comes as a housing.

ppurdom · Post by **ppurdom** » 13 Apr 2011, 19:53

: Fuel Pump Casing I

No signs of cracks, Am I looking in the wrong place? Should I take it out to see if its broken inside? I hear it whirling away gently. The pump works, I would expect to smell gas when the car is idling, if anything near pump was leaking.

I'd expect these errors to be caused by hoses and elbows with cracks, seem to be where issues arise.

I connected my OBDC II meter and cleared codes, so far idling nothing comes back.

Is there a commercial meter that can read most/all the Volvo codes?