DIY: 1995 850 AC Clutch Shim (With compressor in place)

Post by **cn90** » 18 May 2011, 22:43

There have been threads using bread clips, glue etc. to fix the AC clutch gap.
This "homemade" repair may work but there is a risk of these "redneck-engineering" parts flying at high rpm.

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The PROPER way is to remove the AC Clutch and remove some shim(s) to reduce the gap.
I came across a few good threads and will repost here so others may find the DIY useful.

Video of 1999 Volvo 2.5D (diesel engine but the AC Clutch works the same way), AC Clutch engaging and disengaging for your entertainment:

1995 850 Turbo AC Clutch Shim Procedure WITHOUT the need to remove the compressor from the car:
http://www.lomaxelectrical.co.uk/Volvo/ ... p_shim.htm

NOTE: the AC Pulley tool is OTC4537, about $8 online.
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The above link (1995 850 Turbo AC Clutch Shim Procedure WITHOUT the need to remove the compressor from the car) is so good, so I will repost the entire DIY here just in case that link is taken down in the future!

The views are from underneath the vehicle looking up:

1. View from below. Gap between clutch plate and pump was 1.1mm:

: ACClutch1.JPG (82.86 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

2. Having removed the belt and 4 mounting bolts it is possible to tilt the pump to get access to the clutch plate. I removed the bolt securing the reservoir container bracket (from above) so that it could be moved and held forward with PVC insulating tape, giving much needed room:

: ACClutch2.JPG (112.04 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

3. Using 2 M5 screws and a screwdriver to stop the plate rotating whilst undoing the centre bolt:

: ACClutch3.JPG (108.56 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

4. This is the puller I made. 6mm holes in a 33mm equilateral triangle. 40mm x M5 studs, nuts & washers and a 40mm x M6 bolt:
(NOTE: You can get the AC Pulley tool OTC4537, about $8 online.)

: ACClutch4.JPG (70.35 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

5. The puller is up against the 6mm bolt head protruding from the centre of the plate. Surprisingly little force needed to tighten the nuts to get the "pop" indicating that the plate was loose:

: ACClutch5.JPG (93.86 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

6. A further half inch of screwing required to get the clutch plate off and remove the puller & centre screw:

: ACClutch6.JPG (128.9 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

7. The inside face of the clutch plate and the 3 shims, each a different thickness:

: ACClutch7.JPG (69.49 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

8. The inside of the clutch.

: ACClutch8.JPG (98.08 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

9. Re-fitting the plate needs quite a lot of force.

: ACClutch9.JPG (93.6 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

10. Gap checked - now at 0.5mm:

: ACClutch10.JPG (107.68 KiB) Viewed 16816 times

11. On a warm sunny afternoon, blowing cold air with A/C off ---> 19 degC:

: ACClutch11.JPG (38.62 KiB) Viewed 16815 times

12. A minute later with the A/C on 7.9 degC:

: ACClutch12.JPG (38.85 KiB) Viewed 16815 times

Post by **cn90** » 23 Jul 2012, 12:18

The Zexel compressor....this is just generic info for those who need it.
I took the info from an Audi but it is basically the same Zexel compressor: see the attached pdf file.

Zexel-AC.pdf: (165.01 KiB) Downloaded 1372 times

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Re: Special Tool, The S40 & V50 (2005-Current) model has more room to work with.
However, this post contains valuable info on the AC Clutch tool:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... oner/page2

truher · Post by **truher** » 05 May 2013, 16:26

THANK YOU!

I followed your instructions, for my 2001 V70, and it turned out great. I made the little steel puller plate, just like yours. The "pop" when the clutch came free was really loud and startling!

It was possible for me to do the whole job without moving the compressor or removing the belt; it was pretty tight against the frame, but it was possible. I did the entire job with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" wrench, and a 8mm open-end wrench. And a screwdriver to hold the assembly from turning.

Notes for future mechanics:

40mm-long screws do not fit between the compressor and the frame, but 35mm do.
Only the front-most belly pan, beneath the radiator, needs to be removed.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

Post by **abscate** » 25 Jun 2013, 05:14

I'm going to measure the gap on my AC this week, but I have a question about the puller used in this thread. There doesn't seem to be a way to apply pressure to the clutch bolt to pop it off as shown. The VAG tool shows what I expected , three bolts to attach to the clutch and a centre bolt to apply removal pressure.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Jun 2013, 12:34

Turns out I had a little time this morning - on my 1999 V70 it was easy to access the Zexel compressor and clutch after dropping the front plastic under engine cover piece (whats the official name of this, anyway - 2 10mm bolts into frame on each side.

I measured the gap at 0.040 inches, Alldata says it must be less than 0.024 inch and desirable range 0.012-0.020.

Three shims of plastic took the clearance, Clarance to 0.015 inch.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Jun 2013, 13:58

I am adding two pictures

Tools needed to adjust gap on my 1999 (not counting the 10mm to drop the plastic under-engine cover)

Measuring the gap with a feeler - I measured 0.040 inches, ALLDATA told me a 0.024 inch should not fit anywhere in this gap.

I have found a proprietary plastic which sticks in the clutch gap without glue, and for a limited time will sell this to Board Members for a mere 19.99 each. Order before the mods delete this thread and I will include two extra pieces. There is considerable IP going into developing this plastic, including so called mayo-technology, the forerunner of nanotechnology, as evidenced by the pix.

mattwebb502 · Post by **mattwebb502** » 20 Jul 2013, 12:11

Just finished doing my second one of these in the last week.

Alternate puller method:
should not need anything more than the three screws to thread into the clutch. As long as they are long enough, they will bottom out on the pulley and begin lifting the clutch.
First time around after I got the clutch off I forgot to check this out, so I wasn't able to test it the second time around (didn't want to blindly run some bolts down into the unknown)
The second time around I checked it out, and everything sure looks fine --- there's even a machined valley in the pulley that measures to be the same radius out as the three threaded provisions in the clutch.
If I do this a third time I'm pretty confident this method will work, and with less hassle. Most likely what the designers intended IMO.
I didn't measure to figure out what length the bolts would need to be --- plan on 20mm just to get them bottomed out, and then another 15-20mm or so to do the work. I'd shop for some 50mm bolts.
No way you're going to do this with the compressor still bolted in place.

Other thoughts ---

If using plate/etc method as originally posted --
no need to make studs out of bolts. Just use the bolts as they are and thread some nuts onto them... the bolt head is quite helpful in getting the bolts to thread into the stubborn (painted/corroded/etc) clutch threads. An 8mm ratchet wrench slides right past the bolt head and onto the nut.

Tool:
$8. Powerbuilt 648980
Very helpful.
Helps hold the clutch still, sure, but even more helpful IMO is the fact that you now have a handle attached to the face of the compressor --- very helpful when trying to get it into position when performing the surgery.. the lines on the compressor don't exactly want to cooperate in this whole process. Nice having that handle. Very nice.

If using plate/bolt puller method, you can use the tool in place of the plate rather than having to make one -- just need a bolt for the compressor shaft and some 1.25" (no larger! Perfect size) washers.. in my case I welded 2 or 3 of the washers to the top of my bolt to make a top hat for it -- this makes up for the large hole in the middle of the pulley tool. You could also get away with the bolt, 2 or 3 washers, and a nut.
Of course, none of this really matters if the alternate method works.

Clutch bolt:
my little 18v DeWalt impact zipped this last clutch bolt right off without having to fasten the tool to the clutch.

...general procedure:
remove belt, remove idler assembly, lay coolant reservoir off to side. Remove ecu box cover and duct work.
Pop dust cap off of idler pulley, remove idler pulley. Two AC bolts in the vicinity. Hard to see. remove.

Receiver dryer hold down bolt. You'll have to remove the AC line pressure sensor connector --- I'm pretty sure this is why both of my cars climate controls are blinking codes now; I can't figure any other reason. Who knows the answer to this? Does the system monitor this thing even with the key off?
However you do it, it is nice to have the receiver/dryer loose, even though it doesn't move much, and it is worth the time to bungee it to pull it out of the way.

Under car, two ac bolts. Hard to see. Long extensions, a swivel, and some creativity are required. For the upper I threaded my extensions, swivel, and deep well 14mm just behind the trans lines. For the lower I took the same creation and threaded it from behind the trans mount.
A magnetic pickup is instrumental in guiding the socket/swivel onto the upper bolt head.

NOTE: The bracket with the threaded bosses in it for these two bolts has to go back on the car with the notched end towards the top of the motor.

....have fun.

Post by **erikv11** » 20 Jul 2013, 21:21

I'm sticking to the zip tie method, so much less work.

e.g. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/13 ... -shim-fix/

Post by **JimBee** » 20 Jul 2013, 22:27

If you like the external quick fix method, this one works and will stay fixed. The author recommends using "mechanics wire". I tried what I had on hand but ended up heading to Ace Hardware for some 24 gauge. Once you get it started (by pressing it in the gap with a screwdriver, the other two tuck points can be pressed in with a credit card. Then twist the ends and that fix won't fly out.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=258604