DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809 9443310

[cn90]

DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809
(1999+ models are somewhat different)

There are a few DIYs for REAR Cam Seals but sometimes little tricks (i.e. ow to mark and how to remove seals) are not mentioned.
So I will write a quick DIY with all the tricks to make it painless

Here is a good DIY: REAR Cam Seals by “RobTheModd”:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24925

REAR Cam Seals: Volvo Only?
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/15 ... olvo-only/

I just installed the SKF Rear Cam seals using SKF 11809. In every respect, it looks identical to the Volvo seal.

I bought the SKF 11809 Seals from local SKF dealer (semi-truck parts dealer): $6.50/each = $13.00 total.
NAPA autoparts also sells this SKF 11809 seal for $9.50/each, make sure you ask specifically for this seal. Anything other brand, you will be a guinea pig. Local Volvo dealer wanted $33/each!!!

From reading forums, it appears that people who have leak probably have:
- clogged PCV
- ??? using Elring brand
- improper installation (pushing it in too deep)

One of the key things about seal: the seal must be a bit bigger than the bore. Let's say the engine bore O.D. = 47.00 mm, the SKF seal O.D. = 47.32 mm. You need that 0.32 mm difference to make it fit tight, otherwise it falls out.

For a long time, I am baffled by people in forum who swear by Vovo seals (which I sometimes do), but after I did my research, the Volvo seal is made by SKF, then I am not afraid to use SKF.

I will post a follow-up from time to time.

So far bone dry.

-------
TOOLS:
- Allen keys
- Torx keys
- 8-mm and 10-mm sockets
- 36-mm socket (the same socket used for Axle work): to drive seal in. This socket happens to be perfect because its O.D. = 47.50mm, which prevents the seal from being driven too far (read on…).
- Hammer
- Sheet metal screws
- White-out (or some touch up paint) to mark the parts for easier install!

VolvoCamSeal01.JPG (154.15 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

VolvoCamSeal02.JPG (253.52 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

PROCEDURE:

* Get a box to put all the loose parts inside to avoid loss/confusion.

1. Spend 5 minutes moving the Air Box, your life will be 1000x easier! Trust me with this! NOTE:
- MAF connector
- 2 vacuum hoses
- Large intake hose
- Hot air heater pipe
- Just make a note of all these things for easier installation.

VolvoCamSeal03.JPG (141.9 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

2. Start with INTAKE Seal:
- Remove Distributor Cap: 3 bolts (8-mm socket).
- Remove rotor shield (do not forget this during install)
- Rotor is held by 3 hex bolts (3-mm Hex)
- NOTE: Mark the rotor plate (this is used to time the rotor for ignition) with paint at 12 o’clock position to make install painless! If you reverse this during install ---> no start!
- Remove the rotor plate (10-mm socket)
- Now you can see the oil leak trickling down the weep hole.
- NOTE: the factory seal sits about 1mm from the edge. This is important for install.


3. Next is a TRICK taught to me by pro mechanics:
- Use sheet metal screws to extract the seal.
- Study the new seal to get familiar: the OUTER Ring is steel coated with Nitrile Rubber (or something like it). The INNER Ring is pliable and has a tiny spring encircling the INNER Lip.
Virtually all engine seal has this design.
- You want to drive the screw right in the center of the steel part. This will avoid damage to the mating surfaces.
- You can use only 1 screw (I used 2 screws) and grab with a pair of pliers to pull the seal out.
- Trick: use a small nail and gently hammer the seal to create a hole first, then drive the screw in.

VolvoCamSeal04.JPG (167.36 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

4. Next is picture of mating surfaces.
- Clean all around mating surfaces with a clean rag and your pinky finger; no screwdriver!!!
- Apply a thin smear of grease (or oil) to: OUTER Lip (where it mates with the bore) and INNER Lip (where it mates with the cam shaft).
- Now use the 36-mm socket: gently drive the seal in with the hammer. Go VERY VERY SLOW because if you drive the seal in too far ---> leak later (and you just destroy a brand-new seal)!
- Adjust the socket in such a way to drive the seal in equally and just 1mm from the edge of the bore.

VolvoCamSeal05.JPG (108.55 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

5. Now move to EXHAUST Seal. Similar procedures:
- CPS (Cam Position Sensor) is mounted by 2 Torx bolts.
- Note the metal bracket.
- Again, mark the piece at 12 o’clock position to make install painless!
- You can see oil leak here trickling all the way down and may simulate RMS leak etc.
- Remove old seal with screws, install new seal.
- Make sure it is 1mm from the edge.

VolvoCamSeal06.JPG (74.01 KiB) Viewed 12711 times

INSTALL NOTE:
- Pay attention to all the parts removed.
- Now it is a good time to de-grease this area. This way in the future if there is a leak, you know it is new and not from old stuff. I use “Purple Power” cleaner, followed by gentle water from 1-gallon container (no pressure washer!).
- Remember to connect the Air Box properly!


Congrats to a job well-done for only $13.00 using SKF Seals! Now it is beer time...

[jreed]

Great write up! Thank you. I'm bookmarking this for when I have to tackle this job in the future. Thanks again!

[cn90]

For those who are interested in how an oil seal is designed and works, see the attached pdf.

Note the terminology:
- "Garter Spring"
- "Lip"

When a seal gets old, the lip becomes hardened and does not seal well.

Also, when you don't use the correct seal (with correct O.D.), the fit is not tight and the seal can come out!
The only thing that holds an oil seal in place is the "press-fit" contact.

[matthew1]

Really good writeup indeed, CN. Going in the Repair Database...

[cn90]

I forgot to mention that if you have a leak from the REAR Cam Seals, you will find out at these locations:

- At the 2 small hoses feeding the PCV system (directly under the cap/rotor area).
- Oil will pool down below the Intake Boot.
- Oil will be found under the Transmission Housing.

VolvoCamSeal07.JPG (96.73 KiB) Viewed 12609 times

[MMT51]

Cam

Great writeup. I haven't done this yet, but will probably need it. Your last comment, about where to look for signs of leak, is really helpful.

I have a related question.

For a long time, I am baffled by people in forum who swear by Vovo seals (which I sometimes do), but after I did my research, the Volvo seal is made by SKF, then I am not afraid to use SKF.

How do you research this? Looking at suppliers' websites, where some indicate which brands are OEM, and absorbing names like Lemfoeder, Bosch, Pierburg from forum posts and DIYs works most of the time, but not always. I've bought SKF and Timken parts for non-auto engines where I had the spec to match, but how do you typically do it?

Thanks

Peter

[cn90]

SKF is a Swedish company that has been around since 1907. So I am not surprised if SKF supplies seals, and bearings for Volvo, Mercedes etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SKF


Below is a website to check for PN (seals, bearings etc.). You can search by either Vehicle or by "Interchange":

http://www.showmetheparts.com/skf/

[xHeart]

SKF is a Swedish company that has been around since 1907. So I am not surprised if SKF supplies seals, and bearings for Volvo, Mercedes etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SKF


Below is a website to check for PN (seals, bearings etc.). You can search by either Vehicle or by "Interchange":

http://www.showmetheparts.com/skf/

Is CORTECO a reliable alternate?

[xHeart]

I forgot to mention that if you have a leak from the REAR Cam Seals, you will find out at these locations:

- At the 2 small hoses feeding the PCV system (directly under the cap/rotor area).
- Oil will pool down below the Intake Boot.
- Oil will be found under the Transmission Housing.

I replaced all PCV parts last summer with Volvo's. Now I see the fluid collection under the cap/rotor, as suggested in the photo.

Do I replace the two seals or just clean the flame-trap?

[erikv11]

If the flame trap is still in there, take it out and throw it away! Then clean up the area and watch again.