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DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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cn90
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Volvo Repair Database DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by cn90 »

DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

If you keep any car long enough, chances are the hood cable will break at some point. Mine just broke the other day. New Volvo Cable for my 1998 S70 is Volvo PN 9444027, $36 at dealer.

Only after I did this job that I realized that this can be done for $3 using a bicycle cable with diameter approx. 1.0 mm (and much less time than because you remove nothing doing it this way)!
Factory Cable Sheathing I.D. = 1.6 mm, Cable itself = 1.0 mm in size. Just buy the bicycle gear-shift cable (not the sheathing) long enough for the job. Best is to buy cable with one end being dumbbell so it fits in the cabin release lever, thread it through the existing sheathing, then crimp it at the latch area.

Anyway, since I bought the Volvo Cable, I replaced it.

1. Note the length = 53 inches. It comes with the extra tube (in case you need to run extra cables from the engine compartment to the cabin). Remove this tube as it is already in the car. If you want to replace this tube, it is way more work (removing this and that just to replace this firewall rubber seal!). But save this tube just in case.

VolvoHoodCable01.JPG
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2. Make sure you have Radio Code. Remove battery (10-mm bolts) and battery tray (12-mm bolts).

VolvoHoodCable03.JPG
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3. Remove under dash cover (Torx screw).

4. Use a Vise-grip and grab the frayed end of the cable (#1) and pull to release BOTH sides of the hood. Then slide the clip (#2) to remove the cable.
- Check the existing setup at the latch (#3) so you can connect later. When viewed from the front looking down, the hood cable is “behind” the cross-over cable.

VolvoHoodCable02.JPG
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5. Now, get ready to pull the new cable through: from cabin ---> engine area.
- Wrap the frayed end of the old cable (yellow dots) around the knob on the new cable (green dots) just once.
- Then wrap electrical tape in this direction: from new cable ---> old cable. This is so when you pull the cable through the firewall, the tape is not caught up! Just run your hand through the taped area and you will understand why I say this.
- Now Oil this area to allow easy pull-through.
VolvoHoodCable04.JPG
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6. Use a flash light and see the firewall area: pull gently on the old cable and pull it until you see the new cable coming through. There will be a “snag” when the knob (from new cable) comes through.
- The rest is straightforward!

VolvoHoodCable05.JPG
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7. Note the 2 clips holding the vacuum hose and the hood cable.

VolvoHoodCable06.JPG
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8. Now install the new cable onto the latch. The cable sheathing must go in the channel in the latch snugly! Then the knob fits on the mechanism as shown (#1).
- Now this is the trick of the trade: use a Vise-grip to gently clamp the release mechanism as shown (#2) to give you more cable in the cabin to work with. Very gentle clamping to avoid breaking the mechanism.

VolvoHoodCable07.JPG
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9. Back in the cabin, now you have more cable length to work with.
- Note the groove on the release handle that the cable needs to slide in.
- You may need to release more cable to do this: use a wrench on the plastic adjustment nut to release more cable.

VolvoHoodCable08.JPG
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10. Final adjustment is done with the hood closed.
- Close the hood, making sure both sides are properly latched.
- You will notice that the cable is now tight and the handle lever is somewhat stiff. This is because when the hood is closed, the latch pulls on the cable/lever.
- Simply adjust the plastic nut until the release handle has a tiny play, maybe around 1-2 mm or so.


11. I oil/grease both ends of the cable a bit (where the cable enters the sheathing).
- During battery tray re-installation, note that the hood cable/vacuum combo MUST go in the “gutter” in the car’s body (see the red dots), otherwise the battery tray will crush this combo!

VolvoHoodCable09.JPG
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12. Hood Latch adjustment is another topic (basically adjusting the three 10-bolts up or down until you are happy).

That is all folks, not too hard as long as you follow this guide.

Much easier if you leave everything alone and simply buy the bicycle-gear steel cable for $3, and simply slide it through and crimp it (but that is for another person to try)!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
cn90
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by cn90 »

I forgot to mention that it is good practice to do this once a year:
- Clean the cross-over cable and oil/grease both ends a bit.
- Clean the latches and apply a drop of oil in the middle.

Just move the latch mechanism by hand to be sure it operates smoothly.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
LASteve
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by LASteve »

Great write up! I did this today and it was a snap with the old cable still in place.
Current Sled: 2015 V60 T5 E-Drive

Volvos I used to own:
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99 V70XC
97 855 NA
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by JimBee »

Nice writeup.
Lucky you that it broke under the dash and not under the hood.
I would add:
Make sure your latches are working smoothly. Trip them with a screwdriver with hood open. Use some PB Blaster if any rust or resistance. Then use bicycle chain oil (thanks jimmy57). It's sticky or white lithium grease.I do this on a regular basis.
The other thing is I've found on a couple of 850's the latches are too tight even with the latch fully adjusted up, really have to slam the hood to secure the latch. But then the pull force needed on the cable is too high and could cause it to fail at the latch nightmare if you don't have a safety cable. Next time you're at the junk yard grab a crossover cable, cut it in half and thread the cable through the extra hole in the trip lever on the latch. You'll have enough to do both sides. Run them down by the radiator someplace where you can get ahold of it if your main release fails.
If the latch is too tight, I found that shaving 1/16 off the top of the rubber bumper solves it.
cn90
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by cn90 »

Steve Ruiz wrote:Great write up! I did this today and it was a snap with the old cable still in place.
Did you replace with new Volvo hood cable (incl. sheathing and cable) or just the bicycle cable itself?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
LASteve
Posts: 98
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:36 am
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by LASteve »

I scored a new hood cable from one of the dealerships here for $44 (CA bargin price) so I went with it.
Current Sled: 2015 V60 T5 E-Drive

Volvos I used to own:
02 V70XC
99 V70XC
97 855 NA
87 245 DL
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by matthew1 »

Added to Repair Database. Great writeup, CN.
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1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by slupul »

Any way the OP can re-upload the pictures to this tutorial?
cn90
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Re: DIY: 1998 S70 Hood Cable Replacement (The Easy Way)

Post by cn90 »

I think the owner of the forum just fixed the links for the photos.
So it is all good now.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
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