Climate Control Fan failure

[bongslave]

Hello,

I am hoping someone may be able to shed some light on an issue that has just sprung up on my '01 V70 T5. The issue does not seem to be the CCM, because all lights function and it has power. The blower motor just cut out on me. No air flow at all. The A/C does work, for when the car is moving, some cold air is forced from the vents. The motor quit flat out yesterday, after no odd sounds, squalling or any of the normal indicators that a DC motor usually gives prior to failure. Then, mysteriously, it started working again, but only for a short time, then failed again. As stated, all lights on the CCM are functioning, including the segmented LEDs that surround the speed control. Could the blower motor be shot? Is this indicative of a CCM problem? It is an dual zone automatic CCM. Of course, this had to happen just as the hot and humid weather of the summer is upon us in NC. I have read the horror stories of the $1300.00 CCM replacements at the dealership and the outrageous amount that my local Volvo dealer wants just for a simple diagnostic. I have read that there is a blower motor resistor. Could this be the problem? Some insight would be greatly appreciated. My friend owns a repair shop, but his Volvo knowledge is limited to what he finds on these types of forums. I have spent the afternoon combing through the threads, but I have not found anything specific to this particular problem. I love the car, but refuse to pay more for a repair than the car is actually worth to me. Thanks.

[wheelsup]

I wouldn't say the repair is "easy" but it's certainly within the realm of a competent shop or DIY'er.

I cannot shed light on what the issue is as I have an 850. My blower motor started out last year just not working after sitting for a month or so of no use. I remember it well, I was driving to go get gas last summer and turned it on, and it just didn't turn on at all. It did come "unstuck" after that but started to make odd noises.

I recently just replaced it. You do not have to remove the climate control unit, just the steering wheel and dash (at least on the earlier 850's/V70's). Although at that point, and I'm not sure if '01 units have issues with evaporators or not, but removal of the climate control system isn't too much extra work, maybe 2-3 more hours.

I do not know if the resister factors into it at all - I chose not to replace it because the motor itself was making squeal type noises. However for that repair you must also take off the dash. It would be a simple R&R after that.

If you google "blower motor resistor failure" there are some examples that pop up. A big one is when the motor works on most speeds but not one, or when set to max output the blower motor runs at a lower output.

[JimBee]

Begin by testing the fan motor. I don't know the '01's either , just the 850's but this simple step will be similar. On the 850's there is always full power to the fan when the key is on. The resistor reduces the amount of power returning to ground. So first, determine if you have full power to the fan with the key on. You'll probably need to remove your glove box to get access to the wiring and motor.
If you have full power coming in to the motor, test the ground (large blue wire on the 850, I think).
You can do a continuity test on the ground first. If the motor has a good ground, then you'll need to look at the resistor.
Make sure of the electrical configuration before you do this: Unplug the ground wire from the resistor and strike it directly to a known good ground (chassis area to right side of glove box is good). With the key on, the motor should run—at full power. If it does and seems okay, I would suspect the resistor.
You can also run continuity tests between the resistor and your ECC bus. There are wiring diagrams available online.
One more easy test is if you don't have power coming to the motor with the key on, check your fuses. I think on the 850 that wire comes through a fuse first, then through a relay, then directly to the fan motor.
Good luck.
btw: you can pull the case off the back of the fan motor and clean it up with electronic cleaner, then get a little which lithium grease in the rear bearing. If the fan has stopped working but the circuits are are okay, you might be able to resurrect it that way.

[Pauloil]

2001 car: replace the fan motor is likely what you need. once motor quits, it is likely on its way out. get an OEM fan with cage on it from ipdusa.com. a motor going bad is what fries the resistor.

[Ozark Lee]

The connector on the motor mates with a pair of spade lugs beneath the motor cover. The spade lugs can overheat and deform over time and result in the problem you describe. The blower resistor / power stage normally does not fail in an intermittent fashion. It either works or it doesn't.

...Lee

[bongslave]

Thanks to all who have replied and offered their knowledge and advise. I have purchased a new blower motor and will have my mechanic buddy install it upon arrival and hope for the best. Thanks again.

[wheelsup]

I bought the TYC off Amazon for $63 and it dropped right in. Not sure which you bought, but aftermarket in this case seems to function well.