1998 S70 T5 - No Start In Neutral (PNP Cable Adjust?)

Post by **MoVolvos** » 26 Sep 2013, 13:12

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Hope “cambiecbc” does not mind me using his picture.

: cambiecbc - PNP Adjustment Bolts.jpeg (25.85 KiB) Viewed 1932 times

Everything works fine on the PNP/Shift Lever except it won't start in Neutral. Have to pull the Shift Lever slightly back towards the D position in order to start in Neutral. Will adjusting those two bolts fore or aft solve the problem or do I have to make adjustments to the Switch itself. Thanks.

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 Sep 2013, 16:22

Those bolts are the adjustment point but usually getting the reverse lights to work properly is the finer adjustment and the one that makes the transmission controller happy. You can't hurt anything if you scribe a mark before you start.

...Lee

Post by **MoVolvos** » 26 Sep 2013, 17:55

Ozark Lee wrote:
usually getting the reverse lights to work properly is the finer adjustment and the one that makes the transmission controller happy. You can't hurt anything if you scribe a mark before you start.

...Lee

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Thanks Lee. The reverse light is working now but I'll try that first anyways to see if it is in the center of Reverse when the light is on and how it affects the no start in Neutral.

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **rspi** » 26 Sep 2013, 18:22

Is it possible that this PNP switch will allow the car to crank but not start? A guy in Maine is having issues with his car not starting but cranking. Today he got the flashing lights in the button near the shifter and the flashing arrow.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 Sep 2013, 19:20

rspi wrote:Is it possible that this PNP switch will allow the car to crank but not start?

The PNP interrupts the starter line but it doesn't kill the ignition or fuel. The flashing arrow at the same time as the failure to start makes me suspect that the ECU isn't talking to the TCU (a communication error) and it may not be talking to other important things. Can he pull codes?

...Lee

Post by **MoVolvos** » 04 Oct 2013, 02:03

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The Adjustment would not work so decided to do an in car PNP cleaning as I am already in the process of changing the Heater Core and 2 Radiator hoses in the engine bay to the Core. Took half sheet baking pan wax paper set it in the car and took apart switch without removing the electrical connector. Stretched Springs and sanded the top Pin Contact flat and mildly sanded other two Contacts smooth.

The grease looks pretty clean should anything be done to the Circular Contact surfaces that the Pin Contacts ride on?

Does the thin compression washer go on the metal or plastic side? It is next to the 4 screws in the picture.

Any other advise before I put it back? Thanks.

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **MoVolvos** » 13 Oct 2013, 01:33

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Just finish cleaning the PNP this week. I've linked "polskamafia mjl" Post for all the other work for this job. Final Post is just 3 comments and 1 note for things that I found worked well in the cleaning and alignment process. Didn't take after pictures unfortunately.

Part 1: PNP Removal (split) - "polskamafia mjl"
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=29930

1) First you can do this in car if you choose not to remove the harness. It is fairly quick and easy just need to spread something large, a towel or large thick piece of paper to keep everything from falling into the engine bay. Clean old grease and feather sand with 220 Grit so the oxidation is removed and you see shiny not sure if it is copper or bronze. Very little sanding almost no pressure and be sure to evenly move back and forth all the way across in one motion one rail at a time.

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2) Be sure to file down all contacts so they are flat. The contacts that are flat lightly sand to remove oxidation. Stretch the springs per "polskamafia mjl" with a nail so they protrude slightly above the Spring housing. The top one on mine from a different angle had a wedge shaped and after filing it down (unfortunately too many tries) it was half the size of the two good ones. FILING THE CONTACTS FLAT IS A MUST! I stretch the Spring to compensate for the height difference so they are all even when all three sat on top the springs.

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3) I used a straight edge like a Feeler Gauge (mine was a small metal ruler) for alignment per "polskamafia mjl" method. I found eye balling was not close enough although I did test it and and it worked. The Feeler Gauge for alignment is quicker and you put it on both sides to double check. Every thing went back together and worked the first time.

Courtesy of "polskamafia mjl"

: Alignment PNP - polskamafia mjl.JPG (81.05 KiB) Viewed 1893 times

Final note, you usually do not have adjust these 2 bolts. This is just for the Shift Lever as it related to the Positions on the Shifter Column. It moves freely independent of the PNP Switch as it related to the Gear Positions. The PNP Switch alignment is what is necessary for it to work with the Transmission Gear Positions. However, if you improperly move the Cable adjustment you could potentially not be able to put the Shift Lever into the Park position.

: PNP Cable Adjustment Bolts - cambiecbc.jpeg (25.85 KiB) Viewed 1893 times

Blessings,

BKM

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Post by **cn90** » 17 Dec 2013, 01:07

I have compiled a few pertinent diagrams in one single photo so you can see the setup.

* There are 6 selections (P, R, N, D, 3, L) but 7 slots in the PNP switch.
I have labeled them the way I understand it, correct me if I am wrong.
Does anyone know the reason behind 6 vs 7 selections?

* You can see the contact areas for N are very very small. I think this is the reason why it is so tricky to adjust the "N" selector to start in Neutral.

: PNP.JPG (106.53 KiB) Viewed 1875 times