96 850 T, pulling head for valve job, prepare:

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 13 Oct 2013, 11:22

Hey y'all,

So finally pinned down my misfire, to a (hopefully) mildly burnt valve in cylinder #1. Plug #1 is constantly fouling and smells of unburnt gas, so does the exhaust. Getting EGR and CAT monitors, probably from unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I tired Seafoam and hard driving to try and unstick a stuck valve, but that didn't help. My compression numbers were 43, and around 135-140 on the other 4. Wetting down didn't change results, which was good news.

BKM, I'm gonna skip the Swepco 502 and 503 for now, and wait to change oil til after my head job. I'll just use those as maintenance every 5,000-8,000 miles. Now I really just want to pull the head and get this over with.

This has been eye-opening and invaluable (better believe I will have a printout of this on hand):
http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstr ... gasket.htm
Thanks RSPI.

So, I'm looking for tips, advice, things to look out for. Anybody with head gasket, valve-job, crankcase experience chime in. Any specific tools that saved the day? Special techniques that will make things go faster? Specific things to look for re: the valves, seals, piston tops? Exact things I should I ask the machine shop to do so they don't skimp or skip steps? Cost estimates from your area/past jobs?'

Thanks!!

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Oct 2013, 14:05

You may want to unplug that #1 injector, unburnt fuel will kill the cat.

This is the definitive head gasket tutorial, even though it is performed on a non-turbo model I suggest reading it several times before you start. I still use it sometimes when pull the cam cover, on any x70:

Volvo 5-cylinder: How to Replace the Head Gasket

For the head bolts, you must have a 6 point socket and a long breaker bar setup. I recommend the cheapo deep drive impact set at Walmart, it's like $20 for the set and the only one you will need is the 14 mm. But it works perfectly. A higher quality impact socket will have thicker walls and not fit in the recesses in the head, so you can't use it. Non-impact sockets I have broken two previously on head bolts.

Decide in advance whether or not you are going to use tools to secure the cams. I don't any more, but it was useful on the first couple times I pulled the cam cover.

Victor Reinz only on valve stem seals. Be super careful about cleaning, it is worth it. Find a good gasket remover, the permatex stuff is worthless. It does almost nothing at all, you will be very disappointed if you buy it.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 13 Oct 2013, 14:38

If I decide not to secure the cams, and in all actuality, I may be installing NA cams as part of this overhaul, is the timing easy enough to reset

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Oct 2013, 17:02

Securing the cams is not really about resetting the timing, it is about getting them out of the head without cracking the little slots that hold the cams in place. As long as the cover does not get overly tilted front-to-back (timing belt - to - distributor), everything is fine and the cam tools are not necessary.

Keep the crank on the mark the whole time the head is on for safety (to safely protect the valves, that is), and put it back on the mark before you put the head back on, and you will be fine. Timing is set by aligning the rear cam clots horizontally, you will need to fine-tune that whether you secure the cams or not.

If you can, mark the position of the cam sprocket bolts before the sprockets come off of the NA cams. outline the bolt heads with a Sharpie. That helps ensure that at reassembly timing advance/retard is close to factory. For the NA cams you will then adjust it with something like an IPD tool anyway, so not critical. If you keep your old cams, mark the sprocket bolts for sure.

Post by **rspi** » 14 Oct 2013, 09:52

If you do install the NA cams, and align the cams true, you will not see any gain in performance. There is some information out there somewhere about how much the cams need to be adjusted from true to get the HP gain. Worry about that later, just get the head out and to the shop for now.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 14 Oct 2013, 10:59

Cool thanks Robert, IPD says 4 degrees back on intake and 5 degrees ahead on exhaust.

I just spoke to the machine shop I will be taking the head to, and it seems very affordable. My mechanic friend Mike, across the street, takes all his cylinder heads to them.

Resurfacing - $48
Valve stem seal replacement on all 20 - $60
Valve job on cylinder #1 - $40
Power steam clean - $20
or Deep clean by hand - $70

Is it worth the money to get that extra bit of cleaning?

Post by **rspi** » 14 Oct 2013, 11:23

Hell YES!!! Have them clean it to the bone. Take the darn cam cover with it. Then, if you have a desire to paint it a certain color, it will already be ready.

The resurface would clean the surface that attaches to the block/gasket. But, if you take it off properly, it should already be straight.

The thing I do NOT understand with the 4 degrees and 5 degrees is which way is back and which way is ahead? When I have the intake cam to adjust, which way do I turn it? Looking from which angle?

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Oct 2013, 11:35

I would not recommend adjusting the cam timing without reading instructions like those posted at IPD or there are tons of posts here (e.g. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tag/retard-cam-timing), but basically when you are looking at the sprockets from the passenger side, moving the cam clockwise is advance and counterclock is retard.

Pretty good prices and I totally agree have them clean the cover for you. And make sure they are using quality valve stem seals, just my $0.02 ...

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 14 Oct 2013, 11:54

I'm gonna be supplying the seals and new valves. Victor Reinz on the seals.

Ok, I'll take in the cover too. Any benefit to cleaning the cams themselves?

I think I might paint the cam cover yellow.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 14 Oct 2013, 11:56

Also, WHOA on the price difference between the OEM and aftermarket cam seals. I know the mantra, "OEM only," but seriously? $20.95 each, versus $3.95.

I guess I will go with this since everything is in there, and it's all OEM:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-e ... v70-275234

Also gonna add the phenolic intake spacer from IPD while I'm at it.