1998 S70 T5M Storing Advice

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 30 Nov 2014, 08:48

I recently bought myself a s70 t5m that needed work. Planned to temporarily put it on the road while giving our workhorse xc90 a break, but winter came early and I think I will store the s70 till spring. I don't plan to insure both cars as it is quite expensive since we as a family hardly ever need two cars.

I will not be completely storing it as in park it and not start it, because I do take it around the block just to get the fluids circulating and to make sure the brakes and stuff don't seize up.

Any other recommendations to get through this winter? It will be parked in my garage, so snow, rain, or ice is not an issue.

Thanks

Post by **tryingbe** » 30 Nov 2014, 10:30

I do take it around the block just to get the fluids circulating

That's the worst thing you can do, introducing unburnt fuel and moisture into the crankcase thru lots of short trips.

Park it, drain the coolant system (optional), put fuel stabilizer in it, put air in the tire and disconnect the battery is what I'd do.

Post by **FLXC90** » 30 Nov 2014, 10:41

Is the garage attached/heated? When I lived in North Dakota our second house had a well insulated garage with a heat outlet, it didn't get below 30 even when it was 30 below outside. I don't know how far North in Ontario you are, so I don't know how severe your winter will be.

Trickle charger like a battery tender to maintain charge. Or if it is real cold, pull the battery and put in a warmer place. Fresh fluids and filters maybe. Also tire pressures. Fill the fuel tank before storing, and consider a fuel stabilizer/preservative. Park with a wheel chock if necessary, and the hand brake off.

What does the board think about: If it is cold, and the car has sat for a couple weeks or a month, pull the injector relay and coil wire, crank to circulate oil before firing motor? might be overkill, might help top-end; just a thought

Post by **FLXC90** » 30 Nov 2014, 10:47

Of course that is to have the car available as a spare if needed, fully storing as Tryingbe suggests is better, just hibernate the thing.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 30 Nov 2014, 11:29

Fill the gas tank, connect a battery tender, walk away.
I would agree that actual use would be a better idea than
short trips to keep it's " joints from stiffening up".
There's really no reason to "exercise" the car if
this is just a short term winter storage thing.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 30 Nov 2014, 16:23

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't thought of the possible downside of short trips, and that is a valid point.

I guess I will park it but prefer to not drain the coolant. I will put gas in it, remove the battery as well as add air to the tires. How much psi should I pump up the tires to? And do I need to put the fuel stabilizer stuff in it? Its December now and I plan to put it on the road mid March.

Thanks

Post by **JimBee** » 30 Nov 2014, 19:15

I've had an 850 stored outside a couple of winters (October to June) with 7 or 8 gallons of gas and no additive. I did use the additive another time, but haven't seen any difference in startup. They were all tuned up pretty well, so I suppose that helped them to start in June.

Both of the batteries I kept inside a warm area stayed up pretty well, though I put one a trickle charger for a day when I was ready to use it b/c it was down to 12 v.

The tires will lose some air. I've started with 40 lbs and still had to put some air in a couple with aluminum wheels by spring. The car with steel rims didn't lose air.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 01 Dec 2014, 01:05

If you're in a garage, there's no need to remove the battery.
A maintenance charger will ensure that it remains topped off.
Even outside, a fully charged battery will survive just fine.

I've seen vehicles sit out all winter long and run in the spring
as if they'd just been parked. Full tank, full charge and a basic
check of fluids and air after you get it back out - No problem.

IMHO, many people waaaay overthink storing a car.
Just sayin'...

Post by **rspi** » 01 Dec 2014, 04:22

I think parking an old car is asking for trouble. I think they all should be driven at least 30 miles per week. Should be able to get insurance of $30 per month.

If you park it, put a lot of fuel in it, add the fuel stabilizer and drive it 15 minutes or so for the stabilizer to get into the system.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Dec 2014, 07:34

In ON, parking it for three months will probably mean the rotors will rust up and potentially stick to the pads. I would drive it around the block once a month, letting the engine reach full operating temperature to keep the rotors and bearings spinning. In spring, just change oil. If your PVC is 'known to be good' then I would also not sweat the 'gumming up' threat.