Bought a 99 T5 with start and shut off problem?

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 24 May 2015, 23:05

Hi all,
I've been on a hunt for a T5 ever since getting the base and was hoping to find a 98 but for the overall condition of this T5, I pulled the plug and purchased it.
Now the fun begins with the catch which I was aware already. Car starts fine but shuts off iimmediately and it will continue to run if you spray starting fluid. It really helped me get it on and off the dolly with a few hickups and stalls.
So far I broke the problem into 3 components:
1- fuel relay 103 (replaced it, jumped the pins, no dice)
2- Imobilizer antenna ring (found out the previous owner tried replacing it as I found another one in the glove box
3- ETM, car has 133k miles and saw a white label on it
Now before buying a xemodex one, does the car throw similar symptoms when the ETM goes bad?
As far as codes, I only pulled a MAF p0102 which I cleared but still no dice even after unplugging it.
So far I have eliminated #1, didn't do anything with #2 after discovering the spare part and the steering wheel covers not secured properly.
Anyone have had similar issue with their T5?

Post by **abscate** » 25 May 2015, 04:10

I doubt the ETM would fault without lighting up the ETS light.

This has all the symptoms of a bad immobilizer ring, still. Are the keys genuine Volvo ?

Check fuel pressure at the rail..should be 50 psi and hold.

Post by **precopster** » 25 May 2015, 05:55

ETM supplies air to engine yet starter fluid helps you move the car. Problem you have is pointing more toward a fuel issue because starter fluid needs spark to light and you can cough the car into life with it.

Immoboliser would kill spark totally and not many 99s with immobiliser issues.
Do a fuel rail check on schraeder valve at end of rail. Fuel should pretty much squirt out quite far when depressed and soak afew components.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 May 2015, 08:14

You might as well bite the bullet and buy VIDA/DICE if you are going to keep the car. Without them you do a lot of guessing which typically isn't very productive.

...Lee

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 25 May 2015, 16:05

Today i swapped imobilizers with no luck, pressed the valve and fuel didn't come out rushing for a 50psi, more like a 5psi and that was it. I can hear the pump prime for a couple of seconds before cranking. One thing i remember when i jumped 15 and 87 with a solid thin wire is that it got warm to the touch, almost on the hot side but still didnt get the engine to run. I will try more things mainly fuel relatedand see if i can get a break with it!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 May 2015, 16:42

Swapping the immobilizer won't work. The key code gets read by the immobilizer so that it can correctly answer the question that the ECU will ask it when you start the car. If the key code isn't programmed into the immobilizer it cannot correctly answer the question. The key, the immobilizer, and the ECU work as a system and all of the programming has to match.

Based on the original post I would suspect a fuel pressure problem and that is what you more or less confirmed. Put the old immobilizer module back in before you try to do much more or you will wind up chasing your tail. With VIDA and DICE you can verify the correct operation of many of the functions of the car so that you can focus on what isn't working. On a '99 I don't think fuel pressure is a monitored function through the system though so an analog fuel pressure gauge is the way to go so that you can monitor the pressure outside of the computer readings.

...Lee

Post by **abscate** » 25 May 2015, 17:32

You can't tell pressure from flow. I don't get a huge squirt from my running T5 when I pop the valve.

A thin wire will get hot bypassing the relay, that's normal

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 25 May 2015, 22:16

Here's some info I found searching around the forum about the imobiliser antenna ring:
On ME4.4 and ME7 cars, the ECU stops grounding the injectors and won't trigger spark (on the 99s and 00s), it's not the fuel pump that it cuts, the ECU just stops trying to make the engine run. From VIDA: "Every time the ignition is turned on, ECM generates a random code (the code changes every time the engine starts). The random code is sent together with the MIN-code as an encrypted signal to ICM. ICM decrypts the signal and compares the MIN-code with the MIN-code that it has "learned". If the MIN-code is right, ICM generates a random code (the code changes for every engine start). This random code is sent ittogether with the VIN-code as an encrypted signal to ECM. ECM decrypts the signal and compares the VIN-code with the VIN-code that it has "learned". If the VIN-code is right the engine starts, if the code is wrong the engine starts and then stops."
If this is the case, how can I get this sorted out? Get the car to volvo for reprograming of components?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 May 2015, 22:33

Maybe, a scan will tell you. The scan process and the programming is all done via VIDA through DICE so if you go to the dealer (or some independent shops) they can scan it and then the initial scan charge should pretty much be absorbed in the programming labor if the programming is necessary.

Do you have more than one key on the ring? Multiple chipped keys on the same key ring can confuse the IMM module.

...Lee

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 27 May 2015, 15:38

I called Volvo today and they charge $120 diagnostics fee and $225 to reprogram a new key which might be a future purchase but as of now i need to figure things out.
I would love to get Vida Dice since we now have two S70s and hate to let others work on my cars. Now what version do I need and where's a preferred place to get it from? I heard of Chinese knock offs, how can you tell the real deal? Also what laptop software will be pain free to get it going?