95 850 M56 manual transmission Swap Write Up

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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polskamafia mjl
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Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
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Volvo Repair Database 95 850 M56 manual transmission Swap Write Up

Post by polskamafia mjl »

This is a write up for replacing the AW50-40 slush box in an 850 with an M56 manual transmission. Most of the necessary information is already out there on various Volvo forums but another addition won't hurt. I won't go into detail on every step but I'll try to add useful tips for what I found to be the tricky bits. I would recommend having the AC system evacuated by a qualified service shop before starting. This will allow you to keep the compressor attached to the engine. Trying to reinstall it is a major PITA.

Parts List

I broke these up into ‘new’ and ‘used’ categories as some parts are better new while others are just fine being used. I also listed the vendors I used along with the part numbers and prices I paid at the time.

The items in the ‘Other’ category I recommend having on hand. Hopefully they will come with your transmission kit but having extras won’t hurt. My kit was missing a few of those pieces and it made life miserable for me. The EPDM hose that runs from the brake fluid reservoir down to the clutch master cylinder is extremely hard to find. Before you even start the swap make sure the one you got with your kit is long enough to reach between those two points or buy a new one. Volvo no longer produces them as far as I can tell and they are a huge pain to find. If anyone finds a source let me know as I would like to replace mine because it is way too short and just barely hanging onto the brake fluid reservoir.

Buy new:
Tasca
Pressure Plate & R Clutch $203 272218
Flywheel Bolts (12) $5 9454743
Pressure Plate Bolts (6) $2 959220
Shift Cable Retaining Clips (4) $1.92 3502507

eEuroparts
Clutch Hose $45 A544008
Throw Out Bearing $52 SB60120
M56 Axle Seal (2) $10 6843481

FCP Euro
Intake Manifold Gasket $7 9146266

Volvo Dealership
Rear Main Seal $34


Buy Used:
M56 L or H
Flywheel (This should be resurfaced prior to installation)
Shifter Cables
Clutch Master Cylinder & EPDM Hose (I would actually use a new one if I did this again)
Shifter Cable to Transmission Bracket
Manual Pedal Assembly
Manual Shifter
Manual Transmission Center Console and Clip
Reverse Light Switch Plug


Other:
Clutch Master Cylinder to Brake Reservoir Hose 9157190 (No longer sold)
Manual Center Console Cover 9150995
Manual Shifter Boot Clip 3511173
Clutch Pedal Clip (Lock Brace) 989037
Brake Pedal Clip (Lock Brace) (3) 983479
Pedal Shaft Retaining Clip 977100
Clutch Pedal Return Spring Kit 271805

Fluids:
Engine Oil
Coolant
75W90 GL4/5 Gear Oil 2.2L
DOT 4 Brake Fluid

Special Tools:
Load Leveler for Engine Hoist
Assembly Lube
T50 (Flex Plate Bolts)
Triple Square 12mm (for Flywheel Bolts) FCP part number: CTA-8510 $20
Molybdenum Disulfide Grease (Release Fork Pivot Ball)

Other Items to consider replacing:
Motor Mounts
Oil Cooler Lines
Heater Core (Perform heater core hose modification ->
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 37#p362437)
Oil Pan O-Rings
Intake & Exhaust Cam Seals
LSD installation
NA Intake Manifold Swap
S60R or Japanifold Exhaust Manifold Swap

Parts List Thread from VS:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/65 ... anual+swap

Volvo Forums manual swap write up:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=71697

Various Discussions on M56 Swaps:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=62160
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/78 ... nual-swap/
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/12 ... h-vs-m56l/

Engine & Transmission Removal:

I followed wheelsup's fantastic write up for removing the engine. As electrical connecotrs and vacuum hoses are disconnected I highly recommend you mark them with tape to remember where each one goes. Also pay attention to the wiring for the oxygen sensors and mark which plug goes to which sensor.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28973

Engine Bay No Engine
Engine Bay No Engine

Interior Work:

Begin by removing the center console:

With the center console removed you now have access to the 4 bolts securing the shifter.
101_1194_2.jpg
Next remove the 2 bolts securing the metal plate covering the back of the shifter. An offset box wrench makes it much easier to access these.
101_1195_2.jpg
101_1197.JPG
Disconnect the shifter light on the left side.
101_1198_2.jpg
Disconnect the electrical connector or the right side of the shifter.
101_1199_2.jpg
Next release the outer cable on the right side of the shifter. Using pliers pull the cable towards the back of the car while pushing the plastic slide towards the front of the car. I found this is easiest to do with a second pair of hands. Once the metal ball clears the plastic you can remove the cable entirely from the shifter assembly by sliding the plastic box marked with the yellow arrow off of the shifter.
101_1200_2.jpg
Next slide the metal collar up and off the center shift cable. This collar was extremely difficult to remove on my car and took a significant amount of time. Once removed set it aside. You can reuse this metal clip to secure the manual shift cables or keep it as an extra if you already have new replacement clips. Part number 3502507.
You need 4 of these collars. PN: 3502507
You need 4 of these collars. PN: 3502507
At this point only one thing is holding the shifter down. A plastic pin connects the shift cable to the shifter. Using a pair of pliers, pull up on the pin and remove it. You can now remove the shifter from the car.
101_1202.JPG
101_1204.JPG
With the center console completely disassembled we can now turn to the rest of the interior. Remove the driver's front seat by removing the 4 bolts securing it to the floor. Tilt the seat back and disconnect the wiring harness beneath the seat. Slide the seat control panel up and back to release it from the seat and then unplug it. With the control panel off you can install the SIPS guard and remove the bolt for the seat belt. Haynes has you replace this with a new bolt when installing the seat back in the car. Once the seat is free remove it carefully from the car.
101_1209.JPG
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Once the seat is out remove the knee bolster beneath the dash on the driver's side. Three T25 screws hold it in place.
101_1208_2.jpg
Carefully pull the carpet back in the footwell on the driver's side and remove the plastic carpet support panel. This will reveal the grommet for the automatic shift cable. Remove the two 10mm bolts and pull the grommet inward. Once you've loosened the grommet it will help to pull the other end of the cable (the end that was once attached to the shifter) under and out of the center console. At this point you can pull the cable through the firewall and remove it from the car.
Grommet Loose From Firewall
Grommet Loose From Firewall
101_1216_2.jpg
Removing the pedal assembly is one of the trickier parts of the swap. Lying on your back you’ll want to look up and study the pedal assembly. There are two large bolts that run through the pedal assembly and two nuts that secure the entire assembly to the firewall. Before removing the bolts I recommend removing the brake light switch and the cruise control switch or at least unplugging the wiring for them. The large bolts have nuts on the ends. You’ll need to hold those still while you loosen the bolts. Extensions and u-joint or swivel sockets will make the firewall bolts easier to remove. I bought a 3/8 drive adapter chuck for my drill which made removing the firewall bolts a bit easier once I had broken them loose.
Firewall Bolt 1 of 2
Firewall Bolt 1 of 2
Two Large Bolts w/ Nuts
Two Large Bolts w/ Nuts
Pull Brake Light & Cruise Cancel Plugs Off
Pull Brake Light & Cruise Cancel Plugs Off
With the bolts removed I tried sliding the pedal assembly out. The only way I could do it was to remove the brake pedal itself from the rest of the assembly. Using a flat head screw driver I pried the retaining clip (Item 11 in the diagram below) off and slid the brake pedal off of the rod. With the pedal off it was pretty easy to get the rest of the brake pedal assembly out although I did need a small pry bar to slide the assembly off the mounting stud on the fire wall. Once the assembly is out of the car you’ll want to remove the brake light and cruise cancel switches if you haven’t already done so. For the brake light switch, pull the plunger as far out as it will go and pull the plastic collar up. You can then depress the two tabs and slide the switch out of the bracket. The Haynes manual also explains how to remove the brake light switch.
Auto Brake Pedal Exploded View.jpg
Auto Brake Pedal Exploded View.jpg (31.77 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
With the old pedal assembly out of the way remove the two fasteners securing the cover plate for the clutch master cylinder. You'll need to move or cut some of the sound deadening material to access these fasteners.

101_1222_2.jpg

I used the same method as before to install the new clutch/brake pedal assembly. I removed both the brake and clutch pedals from the pedal assembly. With the pedals off I maneuvered the assembly around the steering column and into place, remember to get it onto the stud coming out of the firewall. Once in place I installed the two large bolts and nuts. Don’t tighten these down all the way, you’ll want the assembly to have a little play in it to make attaching it to the firewall a bit easier. Thread the fastener onto the firewall stud, slide the brake pedal onto the rod, and install the bracket that mounts to the firewall. Install a new end clip to keep the bracket and pedal from sliding off the rod. At this point start tightening down the fasteners on the firewall followed by the two large bolts and nuts. Install the brake light switch and the cruise control cancel switch. Follow the Haynes procedure for adjusting the brake light switch.
Pedal Assembly Prior To Removing Pedals
Pedal Assembly Prior To Removing Pedals
In the engine bay on the driver’s side of the brake booster you’ll just barely be able to make out the cover for the clutch master cylinder. With the fasteners removed from the inside, pull/pry the cover to reveal the opening. There are two drain hoses to the right along the inside of the frame. Removing the zip tie that secures them to the inner chassis will give you a bit more access to the opening.
Picture courtesy of MVS member Acknar
Picture courtesy of MVS member Acknar
Clutch Master Cylinder Cover.jpg
It seems a lot of people struggled with this part which is funny because for me it was one of the easier steps. I had a helper inside the car and it made things a bit easier. From the engine side of the firewall maneuver the clutch master cylinder into the opening. You’ll have to get around the ABS equipment and get around the brake booster. I have read that at least one person used a pry bar to push the booster out of the way. I have no personal experience doing it that way but it may be worth a try. From the inside have your helper pull and aim the incoming clutch master cylinder rod. Once it is in place secure the two fasteners. One should be a nut the other is a bolt.


With the clutch master cylinder installed, slide the clutch pedal onto the rod and, using a clip (PN: 989037), secure it to the lever for the clutch master cylinder. This is easiest done before you have fluid and pressure in the clutch system so I recommend doing it now. It wasn’t fun trying to fight the hydraulic pressure in the system and attaching that clip. Slide a new clip (PN: 977100) over the end of the rod that the clutch pedal sits on and secure it to the pedal assembly. You'll want to also install the clutch return spring. One end attaches to the pedal assembly and the other clips onto the clutch pedal itself. If you're missing any part of the return spring assembly you'll need to buy an entire spring kit. Tasca has them for $30. Part number is 271805.
Clutch Pedal & Spring_2.jpg
Clutch Pedal & Spring_2.jpg (116.77 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
I’ll add a note on the pedal clips here. I broke both of the old clips that hold the brake and clutch pedals in place. On the brake side I reused an unbroken clip while on the clutch side I used a broken clip. The brake pedal is held in place by the bracket that attaches to the firewall so it is not a huge issue there. During my test drive though the clip securing the clutch pedal in place fell off and the clutch pedal actually slid off the rod. So my advice is to use brand new clips if you decide to remove the pedals to make installation easier. Part number should be 977100. I would buy a couple of these just to have extras on hand. After the clutch pedal slid off, a friend drilled through the rod and installed a washer and cotter pin to keep the clutch pedal from sliding off. So far so good.
Manual Pedals.jpg
Manual Pedals.jpg (177.14 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
At this point I would return to the engine side of things and come back to the interior later.


Using whatever method you prefer rotate the crank until the six flex plate bolts come into view. You can access them through the starter opening or the opening near the differential. These should be T50. Next remove the bell housing bolts that connect the transmission to the engine and pay attention where each bolt goes. There are 2 different lengths and you’ll want to make sure they all go back where they belong. Finally, separate the engine and transmission.
101_1234.JPG
With the engine separated remove the flex plate to crank bolts. These were 12 sided 12mm bolts on my car. With the bolts removed, remove the flex plate and set it aside. Use a shop vac to vacuum out any left over thread locker that remained on the threads.
Flexplate
Flexplate
If you’re going to replace the rear main seal now is the time to do it. Using a small drill bit drill a pilot hole through the seal. Find a small screw and a drill bit with a diameter close to but just smaller than the diameter of the screw. Using the second drill bit drill a larger hole through your pilot hole. Start the screw in your drill hole and watch the RMS walk right off. Be very careful not to the mar the crank surface as even small defects here can cause an RMS leak. I drilled at least half a dozen holes before getting this technique to work.


Using motor oil I lubricated the new RMS and installed it onto the crank. I used the old seal and lightly tapped the new one into place.


With the RMS installed and the crank bolt holes cleaned, install your resurfaced flywheel. I have read that some people install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel. As far as I know it isn’t necessary and in no way supports the input shaft of the transmission. This thread convinced me not to worry about it:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/16 ... t-bearing/

Use the locating dowel and install the new flywheel bolts being careful not to cross thread. My bolts already had thread lock on them but if yours don’t you should apply some before installation. I used a stubby screw driver to block the flywheel from spinning as I ran these bolts down lightly with my impact. Tighten the flywheel bolts down in a diagonal pattern to the required torque which I believe was 33ft lbs + 60 degrees. I’m not sure if these bolts changed year to year but on my 95 I used the triple square 12mm bolts. FCP’s triple square socket set came in handy for this; part number CTA-8510.
Flywheel
Flywheel
PART95143440966101795IMG952015052795153819.jpg (50.24 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
With the fly wheel installed attach the clutch disc and pressure plate next. This part is a little tricky since you have to hold these two plates onto the flywheel with one hand while you work a couple of pressure plate bolts in with your other hand. Once you get a couple bolts started start the rest and snug them down just enough to lightly hold the clutch disc in place. You’ll now have to align the clutch disc by eye unless you happen to have a clutch alignment tool. I don’t have much advice to give here. I just kind of moved the clutch disc around until I thought it was reasonably centered. At that point tighten down the 6 pressure plate bolts to the correct torque which I think was 18ft lbs.
So pretty. :)
So pretty. :)
PART95143440951516095IMG952015061095180016.jpg (82.97 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
A quick note on flywheels. Depending on which flywheel is used the crank sensor wiring may need to be reversed. Read more here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/16 ... nual-swap/
flywheel old vs new.jpg
At some point you’ll want to take a dremel with a wire brush attachment and clean up the mating surfaces of the engine and transmission. I’ve read about a couple of people who had grounding issues between the two which prevented the engine from cranking.


Using the dremel, clean up the cowl over the input shaft for the transmission (the surface the throw out bearing slides back and forth on). This surface apparently doesn’t need to be lubricated but I did apply a thin coat of high temp grease. I also used the dremel to clean up the splines on this shaft and applied a light coat of grease here as well. Finally I cleaned up the ball/fulcrum for the release fork and, once again, applied grease to the ball and the socket on the release fork. With the transmission outside of the car this is a good time to drain any leftover gear oil and crack the fill plug to make it easier to remove once its back in the car. The drain and fill plugs are conveniently both 24mm just like the drain plug on the slush box we’re replacing. I also replaced the old axle seals with new ones at this time. Slipping a large pry bar in behind the seal and prying will force the old ones out. I covered the new seals with gear oil and lightly tapped them in with a hammer.


With everything cleaned up and lubed I installed the new throwout bearing and seated it onto the release fork and began lining up the transmission and engine block. This was difficult to do by myself as a result of limited room in my driveway and the rough surface of the black top made it difficult to position the engine hoist correctly. Be careful not to damage the crank sensor when you’re swinging the transmission around. Once you get it lined up, start threading bolts through and make adjustments as necessary. When completely seated, torque the bell housing bolts down correctly. You can reinstall the starter now or wait until later.
PART95143440954682595IMG952015061095180001.jpg
PART95143440954682595IMG952015061095180001.jpg (52.22 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
With the engine and transmission attached it is time to put the engine back into the car. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. If only it really were that simple. If you left the AC compressor in the car remember to attach the two front bolts before you lower the engine all of the way down. Be patient and try to get a friend or two to help with this part.
photo 1 (1).JPG
photo 2 (3).JPG
Once the engine and transmission are back in the car I would strongly recommend installing the shifter cables. These cables are stiff and much more annoying to deal with than the single automatic cable was. Installing it now will be easier than trying to do it once all of the wiring is in place. Begin by ensuring the transmission end of the cables are separated from their bracket. This bracket uses two 12mm bolts to attach to the transmission and two collar type clips (part number 3502507) to hold the cables in place. Before beginning, inspect this bracket carefully and ensure you have both clips and that they are in good shape. My cables were actually missing one clip on the transmission side and two on the shifter end. Also ensure the black rubber grommet is attached otherwise reuse the one from the automatic shift cable. This grommet needs to be on the cables before you install them. With the cables separated from the bracket, slide them through the firewall from the interior of the car out towards the engine. Ensure the cables clear the steering column and won’t rub on it. Once the grommet has been pulled up all the way to the firewall begin bending the cables into the center console. One cable has a yellow band on each end, it likely doesn’t matter which side this cable is on as long as both the shifter end and the transmission end are on the same side. Once lined up correctly, slide the cables through the middle and left slots in the black plastic shifter base plate.

Once the cables are through the center console and lined up correctly attach the cables to the shifter. This can be challenging and I wish there had been more documentation on this before I attempted it. I wasted an incredible amount of time trying to get the two cable ends situated on the shifter. The cables and shifter use a ball and socket set up. Place the ball of the shifter at a fairly large angle to the socket and use a pair of angled needle nose pliers to force the ball into the socket. This should make more sense when you see it in person. I also removed most of the old dried up grease and used new silicone grease to lubricate everything.
ball and socket.jpg
With both cables secured to the shifter, install the two collars (3502507) to anchor the cables to the shifter assembly. The collar clip for the left most cable will simply slide in from the top. For the right cable, the clip will slide in from the bottom and sits inside the assembly. I didn’t know about this clip at first and spent 2 weeks driving around with a really sloppy feeling shifter and no reverse. With the cables done, install the 4 shifter bolts that secure it to the car followed by the two bolts and plate at the rear of the shifter. Install the rest of the center console and reattach any disconnected wiring. Install the two nuts that secure the shifter cable grommet to the firewall. At this point the interior should be done for the most part.


Back on the engine side of things begin the long process of reconnecting everything. Ensure the wiring harness gets plugged in everywhere and be careful not to miss any ground straps low down on the block. I missed one of these and my radiator fan wouldn’t work at first. Equally important is the wiring for the starter.


On the starter the two large wires both get bolted on the outer stud/post along with the much smaller radiator fan wire.
Starter Wiring 2.jpg
Starter Wiring 2.jpg (113.52 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
I ran into trouble with the wiring harness on the transmission side of things. On the automatic transmission the wiring harness is made up of a molded plastic sheath that fits nicely over the contours of the transmission case and bolts in place at the back. The newly installed M56 has a different shape and the wiring harness did not fit it very well. Without serious modification I couldn’t get things like the TPS and IAC plugs to reach where they would need to. The plastic sheath comes apart easily and this leaves you with just the exposed wiring. Using wiring loom I covered the wires and used electrical tape to secure everything. With my new flexible harness I moved it around until all the plugs reached as far as they needed to. I expect there is a simpler method to accomplish this but I was running short on time and it was the only thing that came to mind. I’m not very happy with this set up as it leaves a large length of wiring fairly loose and free to vibrate. It also comes dangerously close to the release fork and slave cylinder. If I can find a better solution I would like to revisit the wiring and clean it up a bit.


At some point before you install too many parts on the driver’s side the clutch master cylinder to brake fluid reservoir will need to be connected and the clutch will need to be bled. Again, you should have made sure your EPDM hose is long enough for this because if it isn’t this step becomes an enormous PITA. The automatic brake fluid reservoir has a nipple on the back which can be clipped. Simply clip the very bottom of the nipple and quickly slide your EPDM hose over it. I recommend placing rags beneath the reservoir to catch any fluid that drips down. Once the fluid hose is connected to the brake fluid reservoir you can bleed the clutch to remove any air in the system. I used a power bleeder and feel it was fairly successful. If you have a helper you can also keep pushing the clutch in until there are no more air bubbles.


At this point you’re almost done. Finish reassembling everything in the engine bay and reinstall the seat. You may as well remove the TCU at this point if you haven’t already. The final step is to bypass the neutral safety switch. Using the old transmission connector either plug the PNP switch back into it (make sure the swing arm is turned to either park or neutral) or simply take a short length of wire with the ends exposed and insert one end into pin 6 and the other into pin 7 on the connector. To have working reverse lights install the plug onto the reverse light switch and run the wires to pins 5 and 9 on the transmission connector. I don’t have my lights hooked up yet but I’ve been told polarity won’t matter here.
Jumper Wire Between Pins 6 & 7
Jumper Wire Between Pins 6 & 7
Money Shot M56 Swap.jpg
Money Shot M56 Swap.jpg (171.35 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
Useful Diagrams:


Bonus Pictures:
Auto Shifter Exploded View.jpg
Manual Trans Shifter Assembly.jpg
Aw50-40 Flexplate.jpg
M56 Center Console Pieces
M56 Center Console Pieces
Clutch + M56 Diagram.jpg
Clutch + M56 Diagram.jpg (111.32 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
Clutch_Brake Pedals Exploded View.jpg
Clutch_Brake Pedals Exploded View.jpg (43.68 KiB) Viewed 10016 times
PART95143440968546895IMG952015051395181103.jpg
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PART95143440961102995IMG952015060395161352.jpg
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101_1238.JPG
Last edited by polskamafia mjl on Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
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Post by erikv11 »

+10,000 internets to you, awesome job!

I am doing an engine swap this week, wrestled with the AC compressor Sunday. Hassle but got it done, I hear you on that one. But I did not touch the transmissions, left the autotragics attached.

Do you keep the same axles?
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

polskamafia mjl
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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Thanks!

Yes the automatic axles fit the manual just fine.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Nicely done!

Did you get the ECU reprogrammed or are you just living with the CEL?

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

mika
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Year and Model: 97 850 NA 98 v70
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Post by mika »

I have been waiting for the results of your swap. Envy!
'92 945 Turbo, 13lb boost on E85 with 54lb injectors, 230k
'98 V70 N/A 174K , Konis Sport + H&R Blue springs,16 inch Solars
'97 855 N/A


Previous: Honda Fit Sport (RIP), Kymco S200 (missed),
'86 244 DL M46 (restored and traded)

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Post by matthew1 »

Polska, one of the Top 10 MVS Writeups, ever!

Going in the VRD.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

Image

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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.

Lee, still running the stock ECU and just ignoring the CEL.

Mika, Thanks! :)

Matt, Is there a way to line the part numbers and prices up into neat rows?

Like this:
Neat.jpg
Neat.jpg (51.11 KiB) Viewed 9985 times
Instead of this:
Messy.jpg
Messy.jpg (14.43 KiB) Viewed 9985 times
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
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Post by matthew1 »

Polska, yes, you can use http://c61.su/bbtab.html to format your table for use in a MVS Forums post.

However, I know it's too late for your writeup, so I'll format it for you.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

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polskamafia mjl
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Post by polskamafia mjl »

Well I gave it a try but as you can see I did something wrong. lol

[tab][tr][td]Pressure Plate & R Clutch[/td][td]$203[/td][td]272218[/td][/tr][tr][td]Flywheel Bolts (12)[/td][td]$5[/td][td]9454743[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pressure Plate Bolts (6)[/td][td]$2[/td][td]959220[/td][/tr][tr][td]Shift Cable Retaining Clips (4)[/td][td]$1.92[/td][td]3502507[/td][/tr][/tab]

I just copy the output at the bottom and paste it into the forum post right?
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants

Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
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matthew1  
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Post by matthew1 »

Ooops, it's

Code: Select all

[table]


here, not [tab]. Plus, you need the rows and cells tags too. For instance, here's the beginning:

Code: Select all

[table]
[tr][td]Tasca[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td]Pressure Plate & R Clutch[/td][td]$203[/td][td]272218[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Flywheel Bolts (12)[/td][td]$5[/td][td]9454743[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Pressure Plate Bolts (6)[/td][td]$2[/td][td]959220[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Shift Cable Retaining Clips (4)[/td][td]$1.92[/td][td]3502507[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Which produces this:
Tasca
Pressure Plate & R Clutch$203272218
Flywheel Bolts (12)$59454743
Pressure Plate Bolts (6)$2959220
Shift Cable Retaining Clips (4)$1.923502507
Wrap the word "Tasca" in a text-size tag, and you get this:
Tasca
Pressure Plate & R Clutch$203272218
Flywheel Bolts (12)$59454743
Pressure Plate Bolts (6)$2959220
Shift Cable Retaining Clips (4)$1.923502507
I worked on it yesterday, got a fairly good result, and then my laptop crashed and I lost the code.

It may take a few days for me to get back to this.

I did it by hand. That page I linked to is good for learning, but not for creating markup to post.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

Image

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