Bringing her out of the Mothballs

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 09:08

In about a month I will be returning to states permanently. As the title suggests I will be bringing my 1996 850 Turbo Wagon out of the shed for full time daily driving. I would like to bring this vehicle up to a better standard than where she is currently at. I have a budget in mind but may be able to squeeze a little bit more out if needed. I'm looking for some advice in prioritizing what needs to be done vs what I would like to be done. As much as it pains me to drive around with mismatching panels and door with big dents, I have to prioritize engine health over the cosmetics.

Timetable: I have 3 weeks staring at the end of April to pack all my stuff up and move to the neighboring state (4 hour drive) to finish my education.

Plan: Start with some diagnostics --> Smoke test for vacuum leaks, dye test for oil leaks, compression check, borescope valve inspection for fun. Currently no codes stored an she passed the last emissions check. Inspect turbo for play/leaks.

Things I think need to be done:
Distributor, plugs and wires (Tune Up).
Oil change.
Struts and Shocks and other suspension components? --> $$$
Motor mounts.
Timing belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioner.
PTC mod to increase vacuum pull on the crankcase.
Tires are cracked but have lots of tread.
Oil cooler hoses are leaking and need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Evaluation of most recent drive:
Always starts without issue even after sitting for an extended time
Acceleration is slower than I remember from years ago but I may be subconsciously babying her.
Steering is good besides the leak
A/C still working after recharge
Suspension is not dampening much of anything
Maintaining highway speed is not a problem
Boost is lower than I expected
Brakes are spongy but functioning
Cruise control non-operational

History:
August 2015, park her outside at parents house and leave the country for school.
December 2015, monster tornado destroys parents house (no fatalities) and gave the Volvo (Scarlett) a really good beating. Windows smashed, most panels dented and being outside of the country all I could do is leave her there in the Texas elements.
December 2016, parents sell the land from the house and while visiting for Christmas I swap out the battery and drive her out of there without issue, besides the whole lack of windshield combined with freezing rain. It was a glorious day.
2017-2018, Stored in friends garage and driven for a week every 4 months.

Last oil change: Aug 2017 with 5w-40 full synthetic and Mann filter. Full synthetic for previous 2 oil changes.
PCV kit installed in 2015, old pcv box was very clean despite high crankcase pressure.
Timing belt: No history, inspected belt Aug 2017 and saw no cracks.
Serpentine Belt: 2009?
Tires: Pirelli brand in 2010?
Fuel: Always 91 octane, Fuel stabilizer before storage
Cooling system: Heater core replaced in 2015 with Swedish car parts brand. Bypassed due to leak in 2017. Otherwise no problems with cooling system. Radiator replaced after collision in 2009.
Suspension: No suspension parts have ever been serviced during my ownership with the exception of one alignment.
Transmission: Fluid still red, never replaced, PNP switch replaced in 2014?, CV axles replaced in 2009?
Ignition components: Nothing during my ownership
Mileage: 196,000 pulled from the cluster, odometer broke at 115,000
Power steering: Leaking but functional

Let me know what you guys think I should focus on.

-Thanks

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Mar 2018, 09:51

That was a nice service your friend provided, especially driving it for a week every 4 months.

Unknown history on the Timing belt! ... replace immediately. Anything short of on time periodic replacement is playing Russian Roulette. Don't skip on quality when selecting the replacement belt. If the belt snaps, the engine can acquire serious and expensive damage. The Timing belt is a mission critical component, make no assumptions when it comes to the Timing belt, spare no expense.

Do the glove test to check the PVC system.

If the leak in the power steering is not much, add some AT-205 ReSeal to the fluid.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Mar 2018, 10:04

Timing belt plus OEM water pump are due and should be done ASAP, by you. Easy on a pre-CVVT car

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Mar 2018, 12:25

I would do the timing belt, timing pulleys and tensioner. Water pump is up to you, it can wait if it looks fine and is Volvo branded.
I would bleed all four brakes (for sure!) and check them to make sure there is good life in the pads.

Then it is ready to go for the 4 hour drive.

Next in approximate order, as you can get to them:
PCV and replace all vacuum lines you can get your hands on
all ignition parts
oil change, complete transmission fluid flush (no, not a power flush), refresh the coolant
tires, at 8 years old they are dry rotting unfortunately
suspension
engine mounts

Those CV axles in 2009 are an unfortunate replacement - keep an eye on them for clicking and boot failures.

Post by **oragex** » 14 Mar 2018, 12:37

When storing the car, I would definitely try to let the tank empty then fill and drive for a while with some premium gas without Ethanol (not all premium are clean of ethanol, it should be indicated at the gas station near the pumps) and add a quality (emphasis on this word because most are not) fuel stabilizer (this is a quality one https://www.walmart.com/ip/STA-BIL-Stor ... z/16645039 - again forget about the cheap ones ). Ethanol in gas will just transform in gunk after a few months sitting. So perhaps an injector cleaning in an ultrasonic machine will help.

It's rather the power steering leak that looks a bit worrying. It may keep going or not, and it's a good job to replace it. I would not put too much money on the car before fixing this item (or if it will remain not fixed).

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 16:36

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑14 Mar 2018, 09:51 That was a nice service your friend provided, especially driving it for a week every 4 months.

Do the glove test to check the PVC system.

If the leak in the power steering is not much, add some AT-205 ReSeal to the fluid.

I guess I should have clarified. I was the one driving for 1 week every 4 months. I get to come home and visit for a few days in between semesters. I am quite grateful to him for sheltering my car at no charge.

The PCV failed the glove test years ago. I also did a compression check around the same time as the PCV change and cylinders 1-4 showed above 150psi and #5 was around 120psi. Im not sure if extra combustion gases are leaking passed the rings in that cylinder. I would like to try the over night seafoam soak then oil change to see one of the rings is stuck. Otherwise I was planning on drilling the hole in the PTC valve bigger to increase the vacuum pressure from the intake. I have been reading the ATP-205 posts and Im really thinking of trying it.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 16:40

erikv11 wrote: ↑14 Mar 2018, 12:25 I would do the timing belt, timing pulleys and tensioner. Water pump is up to you, it can wait if it looks fine and is Volvo branded.
I would bleed all four brakes (for sure!) and check them to make sure there is good life in the pads.

Then it is ready to go for the 4 hour drive.

Next in approximate order, as you can get to them:
PCV and replace all vacuum lines you can get your hands on
all ignition parts
oil change, complete transmission fluid flush (no, not a power flush), refresh the coolant
tires, at 8 years old they are dry rotting unfortunately
suspension
engine mounts

Those CV axles in 2009 are an unfortunate replacement - keep an eye on them for clicking and boot failures.

Does the FCP 5mm vacuum hose kit have enough to replace all the lines?
Do the CV axles have an expiration date? The boots were not damaged when I checked last so I dont see why they would need replaced unless they are making noise.
If I get new tires, is it worth getting an alignment if most of the suspension is worn out?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Mar 2018, 16:58

Otherwise I was planning on drilling the hole in the PTC valve bigger to increase the vacuum pressure from the intake.

Service or replace the Oil trap, check all the PVC hoses. A non working PVC system is one way to get sludge buildup, the one thing that will kill the Volvo lower end.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Mar 2018, 17:46

Service the PCV too, while you're messing with all that PVC ...

If you are thinking of increasing the orifice size in the PTC, one very easy way to do that is to just pop off the whole copper plate, the one with the hole in it. I did that on my 850 R last fall, haven't yet seen any ill effects.

My comment about the CV's is thus: the aftermarket CV axles are almost all junk, whereas the factory axles can go beyond 300k. So you are on the right track as far as monitoring - no noise, no visible boot failure, it is fine.

I don't know about the FCP 5 mm kit, haven't bought it or tracked others' experiences. Post up a link maybe? This thread is worth studying for a vacuum line job: viewtopic.php?t=63615

Post by **ZionXIX** » 14 Mar 2018, 19:53

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑14 Mar 2018, 16:58 Otherwise I was planning on drilling the hole in the PTC valve bigger to increase the vacuum pressure from the intake.

Service or replace the Oil trap, check all the PVC hoses. A non working PVC system is one way to get sludge buildup, the one thing that will kill the Volvo lower end.

Ok guys, I know we all ride the PCV train pretty hard here. I replaced the PCV a long time ago in terms of years but a short time ago in terms of mileage. The PCV box and hoses were spotless, I replaced it anyway along with all the hoses in the kit, I will obviously inspect it but I do not expect to find any kind of blockages. Despite changing it I have still failed the glove test and my best theory is increased blow by of combustion gases due to worn cylinders/rings.