New Axle Stuck in Transmission Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

I should have known this wasn't going to be easy...

I got the new driver's side axle for my R today, so naturally I went to install it. Took the old one out in 10-15 minutes, no problem. Tried installing the new one (Trackmotive from Rock Auto) and it got stuck. Won't go in any more, and it won't come out.
I greased the circlip to center it and hopefully slide it in there easier, but that didn't stop it from seizing up.

I just want to get it out now, I think the circlip is too big... seems to be a common problem with new aftermarket axles. Fortunately I have the old one from the inner piece of the M56 axle that was left on the transmission when I got it, so I'm probably going to switch it over. Otherwise it's gonna be a trip to the junkyard to get an axle with a torn boot, because I am so sick of the back and forth with the axles in this car... it's been a months long process.

I was prying on this thing forever, pry bars, flat bars, big hammers... nothin. How do I get this thing out?

[dj_v70]

I have had similar problem in past. Slide hammer worked well. However, I needed to borrow a custom attachment from friend to attach slide hammer.

[bmdubya1198]

I have a slide hammer, I'd have to see how I can attach it. I'm just worried about yanking the inner CV joint apart.

[Ozark Lee]

I use a cold chisel as a wedge. Set it off to the side, offset from the point where the axle extends into the transmission, behind the inner CV housing. From there I use a 4 lb sledge hammer to give it a couple of whacks from below and it will pop right out.

How much space is there between the back of the inner CV housing and the transmission?

...Lee

[theWIFES_S70]

I use a cold chisel as a wedge. Set it off to the side, offset from the point where the axle extends into the transmission, behind the inner CV housing. From there I use a 4 lb sledge hammer to give it a couple of whacks from below and it will pop right out.

How much space is there between the back of the inner CV housing and the transmission?

...Lee

+1

This is the only way to remove these axles sometimes. Use a cold chisel or one of these if you're worried about the aluminum. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blue-Max-8- ... /303411344

[bmdubya1198]

I use a cold chisel as a wedge. Set it off to the side, offset from the point where the axle extends into the transmission, behind the inner CV housing. From there I use a 4 lb sledge hammer to give it a couple of whacks from below and it will pop right out.

How much space is there between the back of the inner CV housing and the transmission?

...Lee

A good 3/4 to 1 inch. It's pretty far out, just seized up somehow.

[Ozark Lee]

That is a bunch, a good bit wider than a chisel.

I think I would try a ball joint pickle fork, also used as a wedge and see if that will get it out. I think my pickle fork spreads out at the widest to about an inch. The only problem will be that the pickle fork has a longer tang than a cold chisel so the car will need to be jacked up high enough to get a swing on the hammer.

...Lee

[dj_v70]

I have only done this a few times, so, I am not an expert though. Given that disclaimer, here are my thoughts in the matter...

I expect that this is the driver's side. I always have problems on this side, passsenger side is easier. I don't remove CV axle housing anymore on driver's side. I remove CV axle and boot but leave CV housing in transaxle. They don't usually go bad. In the future, check it for wear and leave it alone if okay. So far, every one that I checked was ok.

There are reports on internet of people trying to remove axles and breaking the shaft right behind housing. I don't recall if this occurs on volvos though (definitely on toyotas). I remember once when I was working on a toyota and I tried to use a pickle fork like Lee suggests. I didn't have enough room to swing hammer under car and I didn't like the way CV housing was reacting to impact given that it was more to one side of housing than the other. That was first car that I just left the housing in there permanently.

Of all of the stories that I have read of people breaking shaft behind housing, they always got it out by either welding or drilling/tapping bolt into shaft and removing shaft with slide hammer. Hence, I really like the slide hammer, especially if it can be aligned to pull from the center of the shaft.

If you have problems with Lee's suggestion, I'd take the boot and CV joint off so it is easier to work on. Issue is that you won't be able to return this unit anymore. At that point you can either rig a device to hold slide hammer to center of housing or just tap the housing in the rest of the way. I'd put a 2x4 across housing and knock it in the rest of the way with a hammer. I suspect that your issue is that you can't get enough impact on the unit with boot still in place to get it fully seated. It shouldn't be very hard to knock housing/shaft in place after boot (and rest of CV axle) is removed. Then just replace grease that fell out and put boot back on and use a large tie wrap instead of a clamp to hold boot in place. Save your oem axle and plan to rebuild it next time instead. My experience is that I have to replace axles every 50k miles because the aftermarket boots are crap. Just don't ever plan to remove the new CV housing again if you decide to knock it all the way in:)

[bmdubya1198]

I have only done this a few times, so, I am not an expert though. Given that disclaimer, here are my thoughts in the matter...

I expect that this is the driver's side. I always have problems on this side, passsenger side is easier. I don't remove CV axle housing anymore on driver's side. I remove CV axle and boot but leave CV housing in transaxle. They don't usually go bad. In the future, check it for wear and leave it alone if okay. So far, every one that I checked was ok.

There are reports on internet of people trying to remove axles and breaking the shaft right behind housing. I don't recall if this occurs on volvos though (definitely on toyotas). I remember once when I was working on a toyota and I tried to use a pickle fork like Lee suggests. I didn't have enough room to swing hammer under car and I didn't like the way CV housing was reacting to impact given that it was more to one side of housing than the other. That was first car that I just left the housing in there permanently.

Of all of the stories that I have read of people breaking shaft behind housing, they always got it out by either welding or drilling/tapping bolt into shaft and removing shaft with slide hammer. Hence, I really like the slide hammer, especially if it can be aligned to pull from the center of the shaft.

If you have problems with Lee's suggestion, I'd take the boot and CV joint off so it is easier to work on. Issue is that you won't be able to return this unit anymore. At that point you can either rig a device to hold slide hammer to center of housing or just tap the housing in the rest of the way. I'd put a 2x4 across housing and knock it in the rest of the way with a hammer. I suspect that your issue is that you can't get enough impact on the unit with boot still in place to get it fully seated. It shouldn't be very hard to knock housing/shaft in place after boot (and rest of CV axle) is removed. Then just replace grease that fell out and put boot back on and use a large tie wrap instead of a clamp to hold boot in place. Save your oem axle and plan to rebuild it next time instead. My experience is that I have to replace axles every 50k miles because the aftermarket boots are crap. Just don't ever plan to remove the new CV housing again if you decide to knock it all the way in:)

Precisely the problem... I was hammering on the end of the axle with a 3 lb. dead blow trying to get it in the rest of the way, but it wasn't having it!

Great tips! I thought about just swapping over this axle over to the original inner "cup" that I still have and packing it with fresh grease. When the guy I bought the M56 from removed it from the junkyard, he left that inner part on the trans and removed the CV joint from there. Being an OE axle, I know that one will go in just fine if I can get the new one out. Otherwise, I might just try to drive this one on home and if it ever fails, just replace it at the joint as you said.

Lesson learned though... from now on, I'm just going to rebuild them myself! It's cheaper and saves a lot of aggravation!

[xHeart]

After a struggle with stuck drive axle: