Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 06 Nov 2006, 14:58

I just got done with a LONG day of working on the Volvo. I feel like I got into a fist fight with the thing. Anyway, I replaced the timing belt, TB tensioner, TB Idler, TB roller, and waterpump while I was down there and thought I would share some pics and info on it incase you were about to do it. If anyone has questions then please ask and I will help with what I can.

Quick list of things I did in order to replace everything:
1. remove sparkplug cover
2. loosen 10mm bolt holding down the fuel lines down by turbo.
3. take out bolt holding the fuel lines up on top of motor.
3. take out 10mm bolts on the top timing cover, leave top timing cover on though!
4: lift coolant tank up and disconnect connector on bottom and put on top of motor, then take out 12mm bolt holding the main side timing cover and remove side timing cover.
5. turn serpentine belt tensioner and lock in a pin to hold it in place.
6. remove serpentine belt
7. remove the two 12 mm bolts holding down the serpentine belt tensioner and remove that.
8. Jack up car and support on stands
9. remove right front wheel
10. remove wheel well cover nut and fold back cover and clamp vise grips on it to hold it in place.
11. put a 30mm socket on the crankshaft pulley and turn clockwise with a BIG rachet until you can find the marks on the cam gears. Those marks were very hard to see, but after a while of looking for it I finally found them.
12. once you line up the marks on the cam gears, look down on the crankshaft gear and look in the valley of the gear for a small notch, it should line up with a mark above it on the block. If you dont see it, turn the engine over another rev and line up the cam marks again and look again for it.
13. once you line up all marks, remove the top timing belt cover and then the top bolt on the tensioner and then the lower bolt, i think they were 10mm. then remove.
14. Remove two 10mm bolts on the timing belt guard on the right side behind the crankshaft pulley and remove.
15. carefully slide timing belt off of cam gears and work it out around the crankshaft pulley, jacking up the motor a little helped give some clearance.
16. now remove the tensioner idler torx bolt (T-45 I believe), that is the only thing holding that in.
17. remove the two 10 or 12mm bolts holding down the TB roller and remove.
18. Drain coolant from radiator, use a 6mm allen wrench and find a hole in the bottom radiator guard, up in there will be a petcock that you take out with the wrench. open up the coolant expansion cap to allow it to drain.
19. Remove the coolant bolt on bottom front right side of motor and allow coolant to drain.
20. remove 7 10mm bolts holding the waterpump down and gently tap with a hammer or similar to break it loose. have a catch can below it to collect some coolant. remove the waterpump.
21. clean all of the old gasket off and then put new waterpump on w/new gasket and tighten all bolts down to 15Ft-lbs.
22. install the new TB roller, TB tensioner idler.
23. work the new timing belt on starting at the right side of the crank and then around to the left until its around the crank. then go around the idler and waterpump. now pull the belt tight on the right side around the roller and start it around the intake cam and over to the exhaust side. when you start the exhaust side you should put a bungee cord on the tensioner idler to give it tension. make sure that the right side between crank and intake cam is TIGHT. If it is then install the tensioner and pull the pin out of the tensioner rod to free it.
24. turn the crankover two full revolutions and make sure all of the alignment marks are still good.
25. the rest is just putting everything back together in reverse order and then refilling the cooling system with coolant.

Here are some pics:
Pic of everything off and about to put new waterpump in:

New parts next to old parts:

New parts on:

Almost Done!:

Well.. there ya go.. after a good 7 hours of work.. I finally finished. Some things that would've helped me:
-IPD serpentine belt tensioner tool
-better work gloves to protect my hands!
-a lower back brace!
-a helper

Battlescars after it was all done...:

Post by **luketrash** » 06 Nov 2006, 15:14

Good job! I didn't replace anything but the belt when I did mine. I was too paranoid of an immediate water pump leak.. I seem to be prone to those, even using RTV on the threads of the bolts as well as the gaskets. So I left 'working parts' alone. One question: Did your cam pulleys have white marks on them at the appropriate spots? Mine did, and it made me curious if maybe someone had actually changed the belt at some point before I owned it.

I've been working on my car the past two weekends nonstop, and my hands are black and cut up. In the office, I look like Ed Norton on Fight Club. A couple of people have asked me what I did to my hands

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Nov 2006, 15:34

Yippee! Nice write up. I have the ability to pin threads now in the Repair Database, and this one needs to go there, however I'm already late to an engagement....so it'll get done later tongith. Once again, good job!!

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 06 Nov 2006, 15:37

yea I too was worried about the waterpump leaking but so far so good, I don't see any coolant leaking from it. I used the new gasket and just put a small amount of waterpump sealant on two ends to keep it in place while putting it on.
My cam timing marks were not white... that wouldve helped alot though. Mine just had a small scribe mark in it which was hard to see because there were rust spots on it that covered it somewhat. I found a crack and small hole in the bottom corner of the side timing cover, I think a little salt is getting in there and causing some very minor rust.
Yeah I work in an office too and it a few people today asked me what happened to my hands. hahah.. they even hurt when I close my fists. Im about to leave and go home to put my starter in.. YAY! more work and cuts to come...

Post by **luketrash** » 06 Nov 2006, 15:40

MIJ, you can delete my posts if you pin this for the repair list.

My hands are burning and red today from either: exposure to copius amounts of carb cleaner/oil/gasoline or simply being washed 50x in Dawn dish soap yesterday. I'm sort of thankful I needed to order parts from FCP just so I'd have a 3 day break from wrenching on the car. I'm reminded why I'm not a mechanic, as I feel like I've been kicked by a horse today.. (as I did last week after doing the timing belt..)

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Nov 2006, 21:01

I pinned it in the data base...every comment is there. I feel that everything written helps someone in one way or another.

oki-inu · Post by **oki-inu** » 08 Nov 2006, 01:36

I just wanted to add my experience. I really couldn't see a mark on the lower pulley but I spun the engine manually until I was sure the cam marks lined up perfectly (no white out on mine). I tried using the IPD cam locking tool but ended up tossing it aside - save your money.

Before I put the new belt on I put a screwdriver into the #1 spark plug hole (first one on that side) and moved the bottom pulley until it was at top dead center. I knew it was close but it turned out to be about 2 inches off. I had my wife move the pulley while I felt the screwdriver rise and fall because it's real hard to do both and I wasn't sure she understood what I wanted.

At TDC I put the belt on and had to move the cam pulleys just slightly to get the belt on tight. Once everything was in place I spun the engine by hand a few times and it was OK. I nervously started her up and she runs great!

Post by **luketrash** » 08 Nov 2006, 07:10

I've never read the TDC thing. Is the mark on the crank pulley supposed to indicate TDC? I have typically used TDC to set ignition points timing, but never anything to do with timing chains or belts.. (just used marks on the pulleys and gears)

Woodchimps · Post by **Woodchimps** » 14 May 2007, 10:01

I have found the marks on the camshaft gears and have highlighted but am having problems identifying the camshaft mark and corresponding line/mark on the engine block. I have found a slight "notch" on the top of a tooth on the block side. Around this notch at around the 11:30 position on the block is a very sight "line". Might this be correct. To verify, should I do the #1 piston trick with a TDC gage?

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 14 May 2007, 12:54

That's it, that's all you have on the crankshaft gear. you are correct. You can see all of this alot better if you lift out your coolant reservoir and place on valve cover. If all of this line up you do not need the TDC Gauge or screwdriver method. Ignore the slot on the cranck shaft pulley, Just go by the slot on the crankshaft gear.
Tri