Starting a Volvo 240 after sitting for 5 years, drain fuel

JasonZ · Post by **JasonZ** » 25 Aug 2005, 23:26

Hi, I'm trying to start/service a long sit 1990volvo 240DL sedan for a friend. The car belonged to her relative, so she has no available information on it.

The car was very well maintained before putting to storage ( garaged for 5 years ), no leak, 120k, everything looked extremely good for the age.

Here are the trouble I'm running in to:

If there was fuel, after five years, it should be in very bad condition. I wanted to change all the fuel out before attempting to start it. After hooking up a charged battery and turned the key to " on ", fuel gauge indicated no fuel, the needle was all the way down. Knocked on the fuel tank, sounded empty. I assumed that the tank was dry, the owner probably drained it before storing it. So I bought 2 gallons of fresh gasoline and added to the tank. Turned the key to on again, the needle was half way up. I don't think 2 gallons would be enough to raise the needle half way up. I never owned a volvo, so I don't really know how their fuel gauge work, is this normal? Can 2 gallons of gas do that? Or, was there fuel originally in the tank?

There was no drain plug for the gas tank. And it seems like this volvo has 2 fuel pumps. What is the easiest way to drain the tank? Is removing it the only option?

Thanks !

dpauto.com · Post by **dpauto.com** » 26 Aug 2005, 01:29

JasonZ,

Inside the fuel tank is the fuel level sender unit. After sitting for so many years it might have gotten stuck. it's not normal for 2 gallons to make a guage goes from empty to 1/2.

One way to drain this no-drain-plug fuel tank, beside using a syphon unit, is to remove the feed hose from the main pump (under car) and then energize the intank pump.

Regards,
Dave

JasonZ · Post by **JasonZ** » 26 Aug 2005, 11:22

THank you Dave,
So to energize the tank pump, I'm thinking taking off the fuses to main fuel pump and starter, disconnect the ignition wiring and then crank it, or should I direct power directly to it? 12 volt? or maybe less? But if I use this method, am I risking turning the fuel pump dry? In some Japanese old vehicles, running the fuel pump dry can do great damage since gasoline help cool and lubricate the pump.

I tried to put a tube down the tank and suck the fuel out, but the path way seems to be restricted, I couldn't reach the bottom. Is it really restricted? probably by the pump and level float?

sincerely

Jason

dpauto.com · Post by **dpauto.com** » 26 Aug 2005, 14:59

JasonZ,

Do this:
With KEY OFF...
>disconnect the feed hose to the main pump (use any source of container to catch the fuel)
>disconnect the yellow connector at the main pump ( to disable)
>at your fuse panel, find a live fuse and power it to the Intank Fuel Pump fuse ( this will immediately energize the intank pump .. assuming the intank pump is working)
>watch closely as the fuel being pumped out ... when a stream of fuel becomes weak to nothing, stop energizing the intank pump.
>reinstall the feed hose and reconnect the yellow connector back to main pump.
>DONE!

Regards,
Dave

JasonZ · Post by **JasonZ** » 26 Aug 2005, 19:07

Thank you, I understood everything on the list besides the fuse box part. What do you mean by live fuse? a 12V DC?

THank you so much!

JasonZ · Post by **JasonZ** » 26 Aug 2005, 19:47

And one more thing, if feeding a 12V DC, which lead is positive?

Also, do you have a spec sheet for maintance? or a link on the web? Such as, engine oil grade (10w-40/30? I think?) Suggested coolant type and concentration, brake fluid type, automatic transmission fluid type and capacity... etc

I'm sorry I asked alot of questions, it's very hard to find repair manual in local automotive stores.

Thank you!

Jason Z

dpauto.com · Post by **dpauto.com** » 28 Aug 2005, 11:50

JasonZ wrote:Thank you, I understood everything on the list besides the fuse box part. What do you mean by live fuse? a 12V DC?

With key off, a live fuse is a fuse that still have power even with key off. With a test light, you can easily find one. Once you locate the live fuse, take a jumper wire with aligator clips and connect that live fuse to energize the Intank Pump fuse.

JasonZ wrote:Also, do you have a spec sheet for maintance? or a link on the web? Such as, engine oil grade (10w-40/30? I think?) Suggested coolant type and concentration, brake fluid type, automatic transmission fluid type and capacity... etc

Engine Oil (10-30W is standard)
Coolant (any green type)
Brake fluid (Dot 3 or 4 )
Transmission Fluid (Dex-II or III, total capacity approx. 7 qts./ drain-refill 2.6 qts.)
Power Steering (ATF Type F)