1988 760GLE Transmission inquiry

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 05 Sep 2008, 21:42

Hi All,

Was driving home tonight and while I was accelerating a bit up a hill, I heard a scraping noise, almost like something was scraping across the ground. After a few seconds, this went away, this is the second time this has happened, first time was a few weeks ago. I thought that maybe it might be the transmission... I checked and nothing was scraping the ground. Now, I know trans fluid should be changed every time a tuneup is performed, but when I had a major tuneup and carrier bearing replaced, I inquired about the transmission and was told to leave it alone.

Here's another thing though, ever since I've had the car, the gas pedal has always been a little tougher to push than I'd like it to be and also sometimes in order to get to the next gear, I have to slightly lift my foot off of the gas to nudge it along, but other times it's fine. Just wondering if this is all related. Have been thinking of dropping the transmission pan, replacing filter, gasket and fluid but I worry that the old shavings and whatnot are what's keeping the thing running.

Have not checked the trans fluid yet, will do so tomorrow and post back.
Also, the V6 760GLE takes Dexron III?

Thanks a lot!

Darrell

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 06 Sep 2008, 08:18

Just checked the transmission fluid... it's teetering on Min, so I'll pick some up today and post back.

Post by **billofdurham** » 06 Sep 2008, 12:05

Transmission fluid changes on your car are every 20,000 miles. The original spec for the fluid was Dexron 11D so 111 should be OK.

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 06 Sep 2008, 22:09

Bill, thank you for the help!

A little update, I had actually taken an incorrect reading this morning, I used the hot side of the dipstick as an indicator when I should have been using the cold side. Fluid levels are in check. Apologies for the misinformation.

Please excuse all of my questions, I'm just trying to decide which direction to pursue. When I bought the car, it had ~112,000 miles, now it has about 116,000. I am unsure of what transmission maintenance was performed (if any other than adding fluid) before the car came into my possession. Thus, I worry that newer fluid with new detergents could cause issues. I am speaking of a simple drain and fill, not a full flush (that really frightens me). So, not all of the old fluid will be replaced with new fluid. But, your experience with Volvo's surely surpasses mine so the input is highly appreciated

Thanks
Darrell

madorion · Post by **madorion** » 07 Sep 2008, 05:55

Hi Darrell,
Full flushes on older cars has always kept me apprehensive, due to past experiences with other makes of cars. My practice and (my phobia) is to
do partial changes first, on high milage cars and then full. There is only a few things worse than feeling your transmission slipping after a fluid change. My experience with Volvo's is limited and I still play it safe even though it cost me more in the long run. I'm afraid that I've not been much help to you.

Post by **billofdurham** » 07 Sep 2008, 11:33

Well, I ask you - hot side instead of cold!!

Easily done, however, I am a firm believer in never checking auto trans fluid unless the box is up to working temperature. A 30 minute run; back to a level surface; apply parking brake; engage P and, with the engine idling move the selector lever through all gears pausing for 4-5 seconds in each position. Back to P and let engine idle for about 2 minutes, remove dipstick, wipe on a lint free cloth, replace dipstick then withdraw it and check the reading.

You may already do this but I have put it in for future users.

What colour was the fluid and did it smell of burning? A nice red shade and no burning indicates fairly recent service.

As for full flush or drain and fill, as I said in the previous answer the fluid should be changed every 20,000 miles. At the same time the oil pan should be removed and the strainer cleaned. At this point, according to the book, the strainer and the oil pan should be replaced and the system should be flushed. That is what the book says. However, if you would feel happier without the full flush, you could clean the strainer then just replace the fluid that you have drained. My friendly Volvo tech tells me that this was often done on alternate drain and fills to save money for the owner.

Dexron 111 is recommended as a replacement for Dexron 11.

http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Domes ... nFluid.pdf

If you do go ahead with cleaning the strainer you will need a new gasket. If you do not have the torque settings for replacing the bits you remove let me know.

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 07 Sep 2008, 17:46

Well, when I looked at the fluid yesterday, it wasn't red but it wasn't too dark brown either. I probably ought to change the strainer while I'm in there so if you could provide the torque settings, I'd highly appreciate it! Speaking of which, do the bolts around the pan need to be torqued to any particular setting?

Also, will I have to remove the dipstick before I drop the pan?

I'll go ahead and grab the kit from Groton... 9 bucks isn't too bad.

Thanks so much!
Darrell

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 07 Sep 2008, 20:13

Hmm couldn't make changes to my previous post, but just wanted to correct and say dipstick tube instead of dipstick.

Also wanted to add: given the color of the fluid, is it still wise to pursue the procedure?

Thanks!

Post by **billofdurham** » 08 Sep 2008, 12:53

I would be tempted to leave it until the next service is due but that is your decision.

This is from my little cheat book and the spelling mistakes are not mine:

There is no specific order for tightening the pan bolts.

I have looked back at your initial post and can see no way that a scraping sound can be connected to the transmission if it has not continued. The stiff accelerator pedal is probably lack of lubrication in the linkages and even between the inner cable and the sleeve. Oil all of the linkages and take the engine end of the cable out of its housing, hold it up in the air and slowly introduce some machine oil into the sleeve. It will find its way down.

The problem with having to release the pedal slightly to nudge it into the next gear is not unusual. An auto box changes gear depending on the speed of the vehicle and on the degree of acceleration. If you accelerate gently the changes will be at lower speeds. Increase the acceleration and the speeds at which the changes occur increase. The older, less sophisticated boxes can sometimes 'lag' on a gear change because you have the acceleration at a point where it feels as though there should be a change but the box is 'thinking' that you are going to accelerate harder. This is very difficult to explain but I don't think you have a major problem with the box if this is only occasional.

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 08 Sep 2008, 19:35

Thanks so much Bill

I would be tempted to leave it until the next service is due

By this do you mean just have it done by the garage at the next oil change, for example? If so, I may just do that, easier to just have the garage do it.

Appreciate the guidance all, will keep you updated

Darrell